.
The car is located in Concord, CA. Asking $5000.
Good: Runs great, starts right up, new Kumho tires including spare, 98.5K miles, currently registered with clean CA title, all gauges, overhead console lights, turn signals, hazard lights, brake lights, horn, headlights and heater works. new interior carpets, door panels and headliner, new Inner/Outer CV boot, new Fan Belt, new Front Disc Pads and Rear brake shoes, new Exhaust with Chrome tail pipes from Mel & Sons Mufflers (non-original), new Left/Right brake cylinder, installed new third brake lights, new batteries and cable, new paint, recently adjusted timing, no tears or cuts on upholstery in both front and back seats.
Bad: Small hole rust in passenger floor (has been fixed), slight chrome pitting in the back fender, non-original radio which has just been installed new but suddenly doesn't work now, slight oil leak, new paint is not original Honda color, new headliner is not original but I have the original head liner skeleton frame, car keys worked on the doors but not on ignition (previous owner broke the steering wheel ignition key lock and installed a push button underneath the dash for the ignition). overhead console is missing the plastic lens cover on the room lamp.
Photos available on request.
Thanks,
Alex
From:
Miles To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Monday, May 18, 2009 9:12:46 PM Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] Re: brake line bleeder and nut I bought mine at Sears for under $30.00 but here's one that might be better quality avail. at Sears.com for about $40.00. You must use a *double flaring tool* or your lines will leak. Here's the link:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... aring+tool And if you but the one from that company that sells the flare nuts it will set you back $369.00 as I recall.
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Here's a great link contact I picked up from another vintage group:> OK, here's the info:
introduce a torch to the master cyl, but if you do it on the car, don't forget the fuel tube is right there too. BOOM !> http://www.cunifer. com/?page= home
> http://store. fedhillusa. com/316475mmtubi ngandnuts. aspx
> They have the M10 x 1.25 pitch flare nuts for our cars in stock under Part Number M7L-3. Also look into their copper-nickel alloy brake line tubing, claimed to be much easier to work with than conventional steel tubing. Rusted brake lines are dangerous; they can fail at any time, but especially in an emergency when you have to really jump on the brakes.
> Norm
> --- In 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com, "Miles" wrote:
> > Somebody in Japan is making them in stainless, I will have to look in my other Yahoo group, Just-S. They are coarse thread compared to the normal Civic ones. Ours are 10 x 1.25. Most other imports are 10 x 1.0.
> > Miles
> > --- In 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com, "riceburner006" wrote:
> > > ---Miles hello! Who sells these repro line nuts? They are the fine threaded ones I think?
> > > In 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com, "Miles" wrote:
> > > > 6mm fuel hose, same size as VW, I used to sell it in 6' lengths.
> > > > When you destroy the flare nut you will have to install another one. I bought by double flaring tool at Sears, it's easy to use too ! Then you will need another nut and since they are different than most other cars you will need a used one or one of the repro's from Japan. I can help you with a used one.
> > > > Not sure what will happen if you
------------------------------------> > > > Miles
> > > > --- In 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com, "kevin.gailey" wrote:
> > > > > I cannot for the life of my get the brake lines out of the master cylinder or remove the bleeder nut from the calipers. I even used a flare nut wrench and it rounded the nut. Vice grips will not work either and soaked with WD-40 2 days in a row. Heat from a torch? Also what size fuel hose do we need for the 600
> > > > > Thanks in advance
> > > > > Thanks, Kevin Gailey