The method I use (and I have pulled a good many) allows me to lift the car off the engine and frame. Normally an engine pull takes about 40 minutes. Using a long tong jack (placing the saddle under the rear engine mount hump and a 4"X 4" block under the front of the frame and on top of the front of the Jack) allows tipping the engine and frame forward or back while lifting the body off. As shown in the pictures, tying the rope to the front bumper mounts after threading it through the engine compartment allows the front end of the car to be lifted off the frame. So, unbolt the frame, the struts and shift shaft. Hanging the front calipers from the front strut springs (like Miles already said) keeps the brake issue (if not already a problem) off the menu. I also unplug everything and leave as much in place as I can. Even the carb is just tied to the air cleaner box which allows the fuel line to be left attached. Anything that can be left in place is that much less you have to deal with when putting the car back together. I also use a pan to hold all tools and an egg create or like container to hold bolts or fasteners removed. It keeps all related bolts, nuts or screws in one place and easy to put back, clean or replace.
But, as Steve said, if your going to clean things up while the engine is out, this is the time. And, hoisting it leaves everything open so you can crawl under, reach over, go through the sides unobstructed.
Steve also showed the jack stands holding the front cross member up and showing the engine in either up or down positions. I used a come-a-long to lift the rear of the engine when tipping it. Because, with the cylinders in place it is an off balance engine your turning over and the jack stands are not that stable. So lifting the rear with a come-a-long keeps it from falling off the jack stands.
Tools necessary to do the job? I use a battery operated drill (with the socket end attachment) to remove bolts and nuts. An impact wrench to remove wheel lug nuts, frame and suspension bolts. However, use a 6 point socket or box end wrench to break everything lose. Then use the power tools.
Final suggestion; if you find a problem write it down, note everything that does not look right or is damaged. And, use a torque wrench to keep from stripping threads and breaking bolts. An inch pound torque wrench is a must for the 6mm bolts as they should be torqued to no more than 90 inch pounds and use a good lock tight fluid to keep them in place.
How much space is necessary? I use one stall in a two car garage.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Steven Michelsen > Sent:
> Sunday, November 07, 2010 8:56
> AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: Sedan engine removal, hints
> I myself only used the hoist to lower the motor,
> via two chains looped underneath, and used jacks and jackstands to raise and > support the car. Bill's suggestion was to raise the car from above > by > tieing > to the bumper supports.
> I did not try that.
> Just now I recall that the jacks, which sat just
> back of the engine, were perilously close to the center of gravity of the car > (at least while the engine was still attached). Thinking back on that, I > would suggest weighing down the back end somehow.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > feltonminicycle
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent:
> > Sunday, November 07, 2010 11:33
> > AM
> > Subject:
> > [2cylinderhondas] Re: Sedan
> > engine removal, hints
> > Oh, yea, I forgot to mention, I like to use 2 floor jacks. 1 under the > > front of the body and 1 under the engine. More control and a better chance > > to get the engine out from underneath because the valve cover is hitting the > > front apron.
> > Steve, what do you hook the cherry picker or engine
> > hoist to to raise the body?
> > --- In
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > ,
> > Steven Michelsen wrote:
> > > A long while
> > back Bill C had a document in the anz group files section outlining this; I > > was going to suggest it but discovered that it's gone! Dunno why. Good thing > > I saved the whole thing years ago to my PC! I assembled it all into a > > webpage (hope that's OK Mr. C) and stuck it on my site. Between Miles' list > > below and the pictures here, it's gonna be pie.
> > http://www.honda600coupe.com/tech_pages ... he_engine/
> > > BTW when the engine is out, clean and paint the engine bay! It'll > > never be easier. Also, I recommend chains and an engine hoist over > > supporting it on a jack - more control, less tipping around as you lower it.
> > Then you can lower it directly onto a dolly, or something.
> > Steve
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
> > feltonminicycle
> > > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 2:09 PM
> > > Subject:
> > [2cylinderhondas] Re: Sedan engine removal, hints?
> > > front wheels off
> > > remove calipers and suspend intact on an S
> > hook on the strut spring
> > > then you don't have to bleed brakes
> > later.
> > > Speedo cable
> > > clutch cable
> > > charging
> > wires
> > > starter wires
> > > reverse switch wires
> > > drain
> > oil
> > > drop complete exhaust front to back as 1 piece
> > > 2 14mm
> > headed bolts on steering knuckles
> > > 4 subframe bolts - 2 under carpets
> > - 2 in front
> > > drive out shift pin with a spare 8mm bolt or a
> > punch
> > > jack up front of car 21"
> > > drop out the bottom of car on
> > floor jack
> > > drop intact with cooling fan on, starter,front exhaust > > pipes
> > > Takes me about 1 hour with air tools, 2 hours with
> > air tools & beer because I keep losing my tools.
> > > When
> > the engine is lowering lube strut lowers/knuckles and pound the knuckles > > down with a 3 pound sledge - sometimes they just slide off. Engine will > > teeter on jack
> > > --- In
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > ,
> > "tgm_enterprizes" wrote:
> > > > I
> > am sure I have done this 25 years ago, but don't recall anything other than > > the 2 bolts inside the car and the 2 in the front corners of the subframe.
> > > > What's the easiest way to get the suspension
> > loose? (seems like I unthreaded the tie rod ends before as well as unbolt > > the shifter).
> > > > Thanks for any hints
> > Richard