Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment

[franknfike]

When the slot in my camshaft is showing the notch on the crankshaft is on the bottom side - no where close to the "T". How do I realign the camshaft and the crankshaft? Also, how do I check for TDC by removing my spark plug?
Read in another post "Turn over the crankshaft manually until you see a slot appear on the camshaft in this bearing holder. When you slot in the cam is showing, your crankshaft pulley should have its notch aligned with the "T" mark on the casing. If you remove a spark plug, the piston should be at TDC for both cylinders. If this is not occurring, you will need to realign your camshaft to the crankshaft. This can be done in several ways and if you can't figure it out, let us know."
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom

[zinc2u]

By design,  the pistons will both be at TDC when the notch on the crank pulley is opposite the "T" on the housing.  To double-check, put a long dowel rod or a screwdriver with a long narrow shaft into the spark plug hole.  As the piston approached TDC,  you will see the shaft reach a peak before descending (after the piston passes TDC.  Be careful the shaft you put in the spark plug hole does not become jammed or gets bent since you may damage the piston.
To align the cam and the crank,  the best way is to remove the cam chain tensioner and take the cam chain off the cam sprocket (make sure the cam is at a position where all the valves are closed ...the scribe mark on the cam sproket will be horizontal ).  Set the crank for TDC (the pulley mark will be at the "T") and then set the cam so the scribe mark on the sprocket is horizontal (the cam notch will be facing up) and connect the cam chain.
All the valves should be closed and the cam lobes should be at their minimum rise.  Also,  the notch on the end of the cam should be facing up when the scribe mark is horizontal and showing on the upper half of the sprocket.
If the engine is in the car,  it may not be convenient to access the cam chain tensioner.  In that case,  I remove the left and right cam housings which support the camshaft.  This lets the cam drop down and then you can remove the cam chain off the cam sprocket.   If you do this,   you may waste some gaskets in the cam housings and you should double-check the rocker arm clearances when you put everything back together.
good luck,
Dale

> When
> the slot in my camshaft is showing the notch on the crankshaft is on the > bottom side - no where close to the "T". How do I realign the camshaft and the > crankshaft? Also, how do I check for TDC by removing my spark > plug?

[Tom Feick]

Thanks Dale,
I have the cam shaft and the crank shaft aligned now but I have not out it all back together yet - I have a couple of questions.
When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and condenser housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and dried out  - where can I get a new oil seal?
Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on the left side of the cam shaft area - Do you think there could be an oil pump issue or maybe a clog?
Thanks again,
Tom

--- On
Fri, 8/14/09, goinhm@...

wrote:
> From: goinhm@...
> Subject: Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment
> To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, August 14, 2009, 11:24 PM
> By design,  the pistons will both be at TDC when the notch on the > crank pulley is opposite the "T" on the housing.  To double-check, > put a long dowel rod or a screwdriver with a long narrow shaft into the spark > plug hole.  As the piston approached TDC,  you will see the shaft > reach a peak before descending (after the piston passes TDC.  Be careful > the shaft you put in the spark plug hole does not become jammed or gets bent > since you may damage the piston.
> To align the cam and the crank,  the best way is to remove the cam > chain tensioner and take the cam chain off the cam sprocket (make sure the cam > is at a position where all the valves are closed ...the scribe mark on the cam > sproket will be horizontal ).  Set the crank for TDC (the pulley mark will > be at the "T") and then set the cam so the scribe mark on the sprocket is > horizontal (the cam notch will be facing up) and connect the cam chain.
> All the valves should be closed and the cam lobes should be at their minimum > rise.  Also,  the notch on the end of the cam should be facing up when > the scribe mark is horizontal and showing on the upper half of the > sprocket.
> If the engine is in the car,  it may not be convenient to access the > cam chain tensioner.  In that case,  I remove the left and right cam > housings which support the camshaft.  This lets the cam drop down and then > you can remove the cam chain off the cam sprocket.   If you do > this,   you may waste some gaskets in the cam housings and you should > double-check the rocker arm clearances when you put everything back > together.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > When
> > the slot in my camshaft is showing the notch on the crankshaft is on the > > bottom side - no where close to the "T". How do I realign the camshaft and the > > crankshaft? Also, how do I check for TDC by removing my spark > > plug?

[zinc2u]

Hi Tom,
    See my comments below.

> When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and condenser > housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and dried out  - where can > I get a new oil seal?
The cam holder seal came with the engine gasket set.  Since I haven't had to buy any seals in years,  I am not sure where you can obtain them.  Send out a message to the group indicating you need a seal for the right side cam holder.  A couple persons on this group have stockpiles of NOS parts.
> Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on the left side of > the cam shaft area - Do you think there could be an oil pump issue or maybe a > clog?
This is not good.  The oil pump sends the oil to the filter and from the filter it is split with some going to the drive sprocket area,  some going to the crank,  and the rest going through the cam chain tensioner and up  to the cam area.  Some of the early sedan engines had two o-rings at the bottom of the barrel.  If one of these o-rings is missing/damaged,  the oil flow to that side of the engine could be reduced.  If you have a gasket failure in this path,  that could also reduce the flow of oil.  Either way,  you should see evidence on the engine block of oil deposits or grime buildup.
If one side of the cam area is dry,  you want to check things out before running the engine.   If you remove the primary drive cover,  you can access the oil pump.  Behind the engine is the cam chain tensioner which should not be dry when you remove it.  You can manually check the oil pump and the tensioner..... the shop manual gives the information.   If you removed the oil filter,  the center part where the large hollow bolt threads in is where the oil passage sending the oil to the cam chain tensioner (and cam area) is located.  If you had an adapter with the correct threading,  you could pump oil into this passage and observe if it is finding its way to the cam area.
Be careful if you are tempted to remove the oil cap or remove the valve cover and operate the engine.  If the oil pump is working correctly, you will get lots of oil sprayed everywhere.  And if you don't,  you probably have a bad oil pump.
BTW,  trying to check the cam chain tensioner and the oil pump in the car is not a simple task since you are working in some tight areas.  While it can be done,  you might wish you had just pulled the engine out the car.
Looks like your have a big project to keep you busy for the rest of the summer.  Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.
Dale

[Tom Feick]

Thanks you Dale, sounds like I have a lot of "fun" in store for me.
Tom

--- On
Sat, 8/15/09, goinhm@...

wrote:
> From: goinhm@...
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com > Date: Saturday, August 15, 2009, 11:19 PM
> Hi Tom,
>     See my comments below.
> > When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and condenser > > housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and dried out  - where can > > I get a new oil seal?
> The cam holder seal came with the engine gasket set.  Since I haven't > had to buy any seals in years,  I am not sure where you can obtain > them.  Send out a message to the group indicating you need a seal for the > right side cam holder.  A couple persons on this group have stockpiles of > NOS parts.
> > Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on the left side of > > the cam shaft area - Do you think there could be an oil pump issue or maybe a > > clog?
> This is not good.  The oil pump sends the oil to the filter and from > the filter it is split with some going to the drive sprocket area,  some > going to the crank,  and the rest going through the cam chain tensioner and > up  to the cam area.  Some of the early sedan engines had two o-rings > at the bottom of the barrel.  If one of these o-rings is > missing/damaged,  the oil flow to that side of the engine could be > reduced.  If you have a gasket failure in this path,  that could also > reduce the flow of oil.  Either way,  you should see evidence on the > engine block of oil deposits or grime buildup.
> If one side of the cam area is dry,  you want to check things out > before running the engine.   If you remove the primary drive > cover,  you can access the oil pump.  Behind the engine is the cam > chain tensioner which should not be dry when you remove it.  You can > manually check the oil pump and the tensioner... .. the shop manual gives the > information.   If you removed the oil filter,  the center part > where the large hollow bolt threads in is where the oil passage sending the oil > to the cam chain tensioner (and cam area) is located.  If you had an > adapter with the correct threading,  you could pump oil into this passage > and observe if it is finding its way to the cam area.
> Be careful if you are tempted to remove the oil cap or remove the valve > cover and operate the engine.  If the oil pump is working correctly, > you will get lots of oil sprayed everywhere.  And if you don't,  you > probably have a bad oil pump.
> BTW,  trying to check the cam chain tensioner and the oil pump in the > car is not a simple task since you are working in some tight areas.  While > it can be done,  you might wish you had just pulled the engine out the > car.
> Looks like your have a big project to keep you busy for the rest of the > summer.  Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.
> Dale

[friend]

Tom;
    You have a couple of really easy questions, really , and they are in the Honda 600 Parts Manual .
    1.
T he rear wheel shaft center nut or any nut size is given in the parts manual (this is
16mm ) , the size of the tool to remove it varies.  I have used 22 mm and 24 mm sockets.  It is a castle nut and you can purchase one at the local NAPA auto store.
    2.
T he seal for the distributor or right cam shaft holder is 20x30x5 mm (also in the parts manual).  Remove the one you have and go to a bearing supply house , Kaman Bearing is the one I like to use.  And tell them it's for some shaft your making (not automotive) and see what they can do.  Normally it is a simple issue.   Honda used a directional seal, but I have used none directional seals with good results.
    3.  On the cam shaft, and timing the Honda 600 engine, Sedan or Coupe, they are the same.  To check your timing rotate the crankshaft from rear to front on the (use a 17mm wrench) bolt on the Fan Belt Pulley to bring the timing mark up to the top dead center (TDC) mark, pull the spark plug and (using a scribe or similar tool) check to see if the piston is all the way up.  Then check the cam shaft notch (on the left side of the cam shaft) it should be centered in the cam shaft holder gap.  If it is not there, but the piston is all the way up, turn the crankshaft another full turn so the timing mark comes back up to TDC and again check the piston to see if it is up, and check the notch.  It should be centered in the Left Cam shaft holder gap.  if not, turn the crank shaft until you see the notch and again check to see where the piston is.  As Dale said you may have to move the cam on the chain, but most of the time.
If the engine was running before and you didn't pull the cam, this should not the problem, unless they cam chain is so loose that it is jumping the teeth on the cam.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Tom
> Feick
> Sent:
> Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:20 PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment
> Thanks Dale,
> I have the cam shaft and the crank shaft aligned now but I have not > out it all back together yet - I have a couple of questions.
> When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and condenser > housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and dried out  - > where can I get a new oil seal?
> Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on the left > side of the cam shaft area - Do you think there could be an oil pump > issue or maybe a clog?
> Thanks again,
> Tom
> --- On
> Fri, 8/14/09, goinhm@...
>
> wrote:
> > From:
> > goinhm@...
> > Subject: Re:
> > [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Friday, August
> > 14, 2009, 11:24 PM
> > By design,  the pistons will both be at TDC when the notch > > on the crank pulley is opposite the "T" on the housing.  To > > double-check,  put a long dowel rod or a screwdriver with a long > > narrow shaft into the spark plug hole.  As the piston approached > > TDC,  you will see the shaft reach a peak before descending > > (after the piston passes TDC.  Be careful the shaft you put in > > the spark plug hole does not become jammed or gets bent since you may > > damage the piston.
> > To align the cam and the crank,  the best way is to remove > > the cam chain tensioner and take the cam chain off the cam sprocket > > (make sure the cam is at a position where all the valves are closed > > ...the scribe mark on the cam sproket will be horizontal ).  Set > > the crank for TDC (the pulley mark will be at the "T") and then set > > the cam so the scribe mark on the sprocket is horizontal (the cam > > notch will be facing up) and connect the cam chain.  All the > > valves should be closed and the cam lobes should be at their minimum > > rise.  Also,  the notch on the end of the cam should be > > facing up when the scribe mark is horizontal and showing on the upper > > half of the sprocket.
> > If the engine is in the car,  it may not be convenient to > > access the cam chain tensioner.  In that case,  I remove the > > left and right cam housings which support the camshaft.  This > > lets the cam drop down and then you can remove the cam chain off the > > cam sprocket.   If you do this,   you may waste > > some gaskets in the cam housings and you should double-check the > > rocker arm clearances when you put everything back together.
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > > When the slot in my camshaft is showing the notch on the > > > crankshaft is on the bottom side - no where close to the "T". How do > > > I realign the camshaft and the crankshaft? Also, how do I check for > > > TDC by removing my spark plug?

[Tom Feick]

Hi Bill,
Why would I not want to tell the bearing supply store that this is for an automobile?
Also, since I've never seen one of these in good condition, is it a ball bearing seal?
Thanks,
Tom

--- On
Sun, 8/16/09, billmyong@...

wrote:
> From: billmyong@...
> Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 10:01 AM
> Tom;
>     You have a couple of really
> easy questions, really
> , and they are in the Honda
> 600 Parts Manual
> .
>     1.
> T
> he rear
> wheel shaft center
> nut or any nut size is
> given in the parts manual
> (this is
> 16mm
> )
> , the size of the tool to
> remove it varies.  I have used 22 mm and 24 mm sockets.  It is a > castle nut and you can purchase one at the local NAPA auto > store.
>     2.
> T
> he seal for the distributor or right cam shaft
> holder is 20x30x5 mm (also in the parts manual).  Remove the one you have > and go to a bearing supply house > , > Kaman > Bearing is the one I like to use.  And tell them it's for some shaft > your making (not automotive) and see what they can do.  Normally it is > a simple issue.   Honda used a directional seal, but I have used > none directional seals with good results.
>     3.  On the cam shaft, and
> timing the Honda 600 engine, Sedan or Coupe, they are the same.  To check > your timing rotate the crankshaft from rear to front on the (use a 17mm wrench) > bolt on the Fan Belt Pulley to bring the timing mark up to the top dead center > (TDC) mark, pull the spark plug and (using a scribe or similar tool) check to > see if the piston is all the way up.  Then check the cam shaft notch (on > the left side of the cam shaft) it should be centered in the cam shaft holder > gap.  If it is not there, but the piston is all the way up, turn the > crankshaft another full turn so the timing mark comes back up to TDC and again > check the piston to see if it is up, and check the notch.  It should be > centered in the Left Cam shaft holder gap.  if not, turn the crank shaft > until you see the notch and again check to see where the piston is.  As > Dale said you may have to move the cam on the chain, but most of the time.
> If the engine was running before and you didn't pull the cam, this > should not the problem, unless they cam chain is so loose that it is > jumping the teeth on the cam.
> Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > [mailto:anzhonda600 owners@yahoogrou ps.com]
> > On Behalf Of
> > Tom
> > Feick
> > Sent:
> > Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:20 PM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> > Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment
> > Thanks Dale,
> > I have the cam shaft and the crank shaft aligned now but I have not > > out it all back together yet - I have a couple of questions.
> > When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and condenser > > housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and dried out  - > > where can I get a new oil seal?
> > Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on the left > > side of the cam shaft area - Do you think there could be an oil pump > > issue or maybe a clog?
> > Thanks again,
> > Tom
> > --- On
> > Fri, 8/14/09, goinhm@...
> >
> > wrote:
> > > From:
> > > goinhm@...
> > > Subject: Re:
> > > [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > > > To:
> > > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Date: Friday, August
> > > 14, 2009, 11:24 PM
> > > By design,  the pistons will both be at TDC when the notch > > > on the crank pulley is opposite the "T" on the housing.  To > > > double-check,  put a long dowel rod or a screwdriver with a long > > > narrow shaft into the spark plug hole.  As the piston approached > > > TDC,  you will see the shaft reach a peak before descending > > > (after the piston passes TDC.  Be careful the shaft you put in > > > the spark plug hole does not become jammed or gets bent since you may > > > damage the piston.
> > > To align the cam and the crank,  the best way is to remove > > > the cam chain tensioner and take the cam chain off the cam sprocket > > > (make sure the cam is at a position where all the valves are closed > > > ...the scribe mark on the cam sproket will be horizontal ).  Set > > > the crank for TDC (the pulley mark will be at the "T") and then set > > > the cam so the scribe mark on the sprocket is horizontal (the cam > > > notch will be facing up) and connect the cam chain.  All the > > > valves should be closed and the cam lobes should be at their minimum > > > rise.  Also,  the notch on the end of the cam should be > > > facing up when the scribe mark is horizontal and showing on the upper > > > half of the sprocket.
> > > If the engine is in the car,  it may not be convenient to > > > access the cam chain tensioner.  In that case,  I remove the > > > left and right cam housings which support the camshaft.  This > > > lets the cam drop down and then you can remove the cam chain off the > > > cam sprocket.   If you do this,   you may waste > > > some gaskets in the cam housings and you should double-check the > > > rocker arm clearances when you put everything back together.
> > > good luck,
> > > Dale
> > > > When the slot in my camshaft is showing the notch on the > > > > crankshaft is on the bottom side - no where close to the "T". How do > > > > I realign the camshaft and the crankshaft? Also, how do I check for > > > > TDC by removing my spark plug?

[zinc2u]

it is a rod seal.

> Also, since I've never seen one of these in good condition, is it a ball > bearing seal?

[zinc2u]

The bearing dealers prefer to work with industrial supply and want you to take your auto business to an auto parts store (unless you are dealing in large $$$$ orders).  The seals used for industrial projects may be operating at a lower temperature than your auto engine.  If you don't tell them how the part is to be used,  you might not get the best part for your application.

> Why would I not want to tell the bearing supply store that this is for an > automobile?

[friend]

Tom;
Some supply houses are not selling automotive parts, they are for stand alone engines or cranes...  So, if you say it's for a automotive application then they won't sell to you because they are not licensed to do that type of business.  The item will work, but it's not for that unit.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Tom
> Feick
> Sent:
> Monday, August 17, 2009 10:55 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> RE: [anzhonda600owners]
> Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment
> Hi Bill,
> Why would I not want to tell the bearing supply store that this is > for an automobile?
> Also, since I've never seen one of these in good condition, is it a > ball bearing seal?
> Thanks,
> Tom
> --- On
> Sun, 8/16/09, billmyong@earthlink .net
>
> wrote:
> > From:
> > billmyong@earthlink .net
> >
> > Subject: RE:
> > [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Sunday, August
> > 16, 2009, 10:01 AM
> > Tom;
> >     You have a couple of
> > really easy questions, really
> > , and they
> > are in the Honda 600 Parts Manual
> > .
> >     1.
> > T
> > he rear
> > wheel shaft center
> > nut or any
> > nut size is given in the parts manual
> > (this is
> > 16mm
> > )
> > , the size of the tool to remove it
> > varies.  I have used 22 mm and 24 mm sockets.  It is a > > castle nut and you can purchase one at the local NAPA auto > > store.
> >     2.
> > T
> > he seal for the distributor or right
> > cam shaft holder is 20x30x5 mm (also in the parts manual).
> > Remove the one you have and go to a bearing supply house > > , > > Kaman Bearing is the one I like to > > use.  And tell them it's for some shaft your > > making (not automotive) and see what they can do.  Normally > > it is a simple issue.   Honda used a directional > > seal, but I have used none directional seals with good > > results.
> >     3.  On the cam shaft,
> > and timing the Honda 600 engine, Sedan or Coupe, they are the > > same.  To check your timing rotate the crankshaft from rear to > > front on the (use a 17mm wrench) bolt on the Fan Belt Pulley to bring > > the timing mark up to the top dead center (TDC) mark, pull the spark > > plug and (using a scribe or similar tool) check to see if the piston > > is all the way up.  Then check the cam shaft notch (on the left > > side of the cam shaft) it should be centered in the cam shaft holder > > gap.  If it is not there, but the piston is all the way up, turn > > the crankshaft another full turn so the timing mark comes back up to > > TDC and again check the piston to see if it is up, and check the > > notch.  It should be centered in the Left Cam shaft holder > > gap.  if not, turn the crank shaft until you see the notch and > > again check to see where the piston is.  As Dale said you may > > have to move the cam on the chain, but most of the time.  If the > > engine was running before and you didn't pull the cam, this > > should not the problem, unless they cam chain is so loose that it > > is jumping the teeth on the cam.
> > Bill
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > > anzhonda600owners@
> > > yahoogroups. com [mailto:anzhonda600 owners@yahoogrou ps.com] > > > On > > > Behalf Of > > > Tom Feick > > > Sent:
> > > Saturday, August 15, 2009
> > > 6:20 PM
> > > To:
> > > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups.
> > > com
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft
> > > Realignment
> > > Thanks Dale,
> > > I have the cam shaft and the crank shaft aligned now but > > > I have not out it all back together yet - I have a couple of > > > questions.
> > > When I removed the left cam holder (ignition points and > > > condenser housing) the oil seal was pretty well eaten up and > > > dried out  - where can I get a new oil seal?
> > > Also, I am seeing oil inside the right side but not on > > > the left side of the cam shaft area - Do you think there could > > > be an oil pump issue or maybe a clog?
> > > Thanks again,
> > > Tom
> > > --- On
> > > Fri, 8/14/09, goinhm@...
> > >
> > > wrote:
> > > > From:
> > > > goinhm@...
> > > > Subject: Re:
> > > > [anzhonda600owners] Camshaft/Crankshaft Realignment > > > > To:
> > > > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com > > > > Date: Friday, August > > > > 14, 2009, 11:24 PM
> > > > By design,  the pistons will both be at TDC when
> > > > the notch on the crank pulley is opposite the "T" on the > > > > housing.  To double-check,  put a long dowel rod > > > > or a screwdriver with a long narrow shaft into the spark > > > > plug hole.  As the piston approached TDC,  you > > > > will see the shaft reach a peak before descending (after the > > > > piston passes TDC.  Be careful the shaft you put in the > > > > spark plug hole does not become jammed or gets bent since > > > > you may damage the piston.
> > > > To align the cam and the crank,  the best way is
> > > > to remove the cam chain tensioner and take the cam chain off > > > > the cam sprocket (make sure the cam is at a position where > > > > all the valves are closed ...the scribe mark on the cam > > > > sproket will be horizontal ).  Set the crank for TDC > > > > (the pulley mark will be at the "T") and then set the cam so > > > > the scribe mark on the sprocket is horizontal (the cam notch > > > > will be facing up) and connect the cam chain.  All the > > > > valves should be closed and the cam lobes should be at their > > > > minimum rise.  Also,  the notch on the end of the > > > > cam should be facing up when the scribe mark is horizontal > > > > and showing on the upper half of the sprocket.
> > > > If the engine is in the car,  it may not be
> > > > convenient to access the cam chain tensioner.  In that > > > > case,  I remove the left and right cam housings which > > > > support the camshaft.  This lets the cam drop down and > > > > then you can remove the cam chain off the cam > > > > sprocket.   If you do this,   you may > > > > waste some gaskets in the cam housings and you should > > > > double-check the rocker arm clearances when you put > > > > everything back together.
> > > > good luck,
> > > > Dale
> > > > > When the slot in my camshaft is
> > > > > showing the notch on the crankshaft is on the bottom side > > > > > - no where close to the "T". How do I realign the camshaft > > > > > and the crankshaft? Also, how do I check for TDC by > > > > > removing my spark plug?