Hi all,
It has been a while but I have slowly collected some parts and I
have begun work on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, whoo
hoo!
I have done the basics so far, oil change, valve adjust (lubed the
rockers while the cover was off), new points and new fan belt. While
I had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the bearing and
lubed them with some distributor points grease as it is non melting.
Most everything shows signs that this car really has 30,000 miles on
it. The fan belt may have been original as it has Japenese words on
it, the fuel filter looks like it was never changed either, and one
tire has the '72 date code on it, and it is also a bias ply tire.
Tonight I verified the fuel pump works but the fuel smells like
turpentine, so that will be drained and re-filled with fresh fuel and
I will install some new fuel lines while everything is apart to be
safe, the original red ones are on it now.
I removed the carb and was surprised that the bowl was fairly clean,
no rust deposits in it, no gunk, no corrosion. But the acclerator
pump diaphram is fairly hard and not very flexible, I am soaking it
in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the
carb that I should look at closely?
I may get a battery this weekend so I can at least get some oil back
into the oil passages and also check for spark.
I have some questions though:
1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump,
it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a
cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking
and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses.
2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn?
3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there supposed
to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, but if it
was thicker it would be fine.
4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this
associated with the generator (alternator?)? Or is it a secondary
fuse box?
Thanks all,
Mike
Closer to getting mine running
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Hi Mike;
Welcome to the group.
Answers to your questions:
I am soaking it in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the carb that I should look at closely?
the accelerator pump is bad, will leak unless changed, soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it. Use a pin or very small wire and check out the hole from the accelerator pump into the fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed air check all the passageways. Pull the needle valve and check to see if the spring loaded pin at the top of the needle is moving freely. Be careful not to bend anything (It was running before, the settings should have been right) without pulling the jets, see if they are tight while in place. If not then the O rings have shrunk and they will need replacing. Same on the idle screw..... Depending on the type of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has the early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses. -
Fuel lines are covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still good. You can also purchase more.
2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn? - With a 17mm wrench move it from rear of the engine forward is the normal rotation.
3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there supposed to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, but if it was thicker it would be fine.
- Yes, there is supposed to be a cover.
4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this associated with the generator (alternator? )? Or is it a secondary fuse box?
- under the battery tray there is the rectifier, three wires in - one wire out. If you look at the N600 shop manual Page 17-28 there is a good picture and description of how it works.
There are some other things you could do before resurrecting your old car (Honda 600). Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust them. Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause the connection to be much less or gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative side of battery), under coil and bolted to the engine - clean everything (wire brush) and bolt back together, a good ground makes all the difference. Check for rodent nests, and related wire damage. If the steering seems loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at the point where it moves through the fire wall) pull back the carpet and watch the shaft as you move the steering wheel. If it moves up-down back and forth... without changing the position of the front wheels? Then your pinion shaft bushings need to be changed out, not the tie rod ends!!
Have Fun, and be safe!
Bill
Brakes - bleed them fully, make sure good fluid is at all for wheels. check for leaks, any sign, pull and rebuild.
Welcome to the group.
Answers to your questions:
I am soaking it in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the carb that I should look at closely?
the accelerator pump is bad, will leak unless changed, soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it. Use a pin or very small wire and check out the hole from the accelerator pump into the fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed air check all the passageways. Pull the needle valve and check to see if the spring loaded pin at the top of the needle is moving freely. Be careful not to bend anything (It was running before, the settings should have been right) without pulling the jets, see if they are tight while in place. If not then the O rings have shrunk and they will need replacing. Same on the idle screw..... Depending on the type of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has the early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses. -
Fuel lines are covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still good. You can also purchase more.
2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn? - With a 17mm wrench move it from rear of the engine forward is the normal rotation.
3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there supposed to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, but if it was thicker it would be fine.
- Yes, there is supposed to be a cover.
4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this associated with the generator (alternator? )? Or is it a secondary fuse box?
- under the battery tray there is the rectifier, three wires in - one wire out. If you look at the N600 shop manual Page 17-28 there is a good picture and description of how it works.
There are some other things you could do before resurrecting your old car (Honda 600). Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust them. Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause the connection to be much less or gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative side of battery), under coil and bolted to the engine - clean everything (wire brush) and bolt back together, a good ground makes all the difference. Check for rodent nests, and related wire damage. If the steering seems loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at the point where it moves through the fire wall) pull back the carpet and watch the shaft as you move the steering wheel. If it moves up-down back and forth... without changing the position of the front wheels? Then your pinion shaft bushings need to be changed out, not the tie rod ends!!
Have Fun, and be safe!
Bill
Brakes - bleed them fully, make sure good fluid is at all for wheels. check for leaks, any sign, pull and rebuild.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> geez_tech
> Sent:
> Friday, July 18, 2008 9:54 PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners]
> Closer to getting mine running
> Hi all,
> It has been a while but I have slowly collected some parts and I
> have begun work on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, whoo
> hoo!
> I have done the basics so far, oil change, valve adjust (lubed the
> rockers while the cover was off), new points and new fan belt. While > I > had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the bearing and > lubed them > with some distributor points grease as it is non melting.
> Most everything
> shows signs that this car really has 30,000 miles on
> it. The fan belt may
> have been original as it has Japenese words on
> it, the fuel filter looks
> like it was never changed either, and one
> tire has the '72 date code on
> it, and it is also a bias ply tire.
> Tonight I verified the fuel pump works
> but the fuel smells like
> turpentine, so that will be drained and re-filled
> with fresh fuel and
> I will install some new fuel lines while everything is
> apart to be
> safe, the original red ones are on it now.
> I removed the
> carb and was surprised that the bowl was fairly clean,
> no rust deposits in
> it, no gunk, no corrosion. But the acclerator
> pump diaphram is fairly hard
> and not very flexible, I am soaking it
> in engine oil to see if it may
> soften up some. Anything else on the
> carb that I should look at
> closely?
> I may get a battery this weekend so I can at least get some oil > back > into the oil passages and also check for spark.
> I have some
> questions though:
> 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the
> filter to the pump,
> it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses
> have a
> cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are > cracking > and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses.
> 2. Just
> curious, which way does the engine turn?
> 3. There is a "main" fuse on
> the passenger fender, is there supposed
> to be a cover on it? Mine does not
> fit well in the bracket, but if it
> was thicker it would be fine.
> 4.
> Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this
> associated with the generator (alternator? )? Or is it a secondary
> fuse box?
> Thanks all,
> Mike
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Bill,
If the accelerator pump is rigid but not cracked or otherwise broken, how about soaking it in a cup of armor-all for a day or two? If not that then some product designed for restoring rubber bits?
For a possible source of homemade, new accelerator pumps, try Bruce at theenginebuilder@...
Steve
If the accelerator pump is rigid but not cracked or otherwise broken, how about soaking it in a cup of armor-all for a day or two? If not that then some product designed for restoring rubber bits?
For a possible source of homemade, new accelerator pumps, try Bruce at theenginebuilder@...
Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> billmyong@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Saturday, July 19, 2008 8:18
> AM
> Subject:
> RE: [anzhonda600owners] Closer
> to getting mine running
> Hi
> Mike;
> Welcome to the group.
> Answers to your questions:
> I am soaking it
> in engine oil
> to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the
> carb that I should
> look at closely?
> the accelerator pump is bad, will leak unless changed,
> soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it. Use a pin or very small > wire and check out the hole from the accelerator pump into the > fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed air check all the > passageways. Pull the needle valve and check to see if the spring loaded > pin at the top of the needle is moving freely. Be careful not to bend > anything (It was running before, the settings should have been right) > without pulling the jets, see if they are tight while in place. If not > then the O rings have shrunk and they will need replacing. Same on the > idle screw..... Depending on the type of carb you have (there are two > variations) the N600 manual has the early carb, while the Z600 supplement > manual has the later version.
> oil change -
> No
> mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
> 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going
> from the filter to the pump,
> it is still flexible, is this factory? The
> fuel hoses have a
> cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some
> are cracking
> and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses. -
> Fuel lines are covered with a heat shield material
> from factory. Leave it in place if it is still good. You can also > purchase more.
> 2. Just curious, which way does the engine
> turn? -
> With a 17mm wrench move it from
> rear of the engine forward is the normal rotation.
> 3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger
> fender, is there supposed
> to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in
> the bracket, but if it
> was thicker it would be
> fine.
> - Yes, there is
> supposed to be a
> cover.
> 4. Underneath the passengers headlight
> there is a black box, is this
> associated with the generator
> (alternator? )? Or is it a secondary
> fuse box?
> -
> under the battery tray there is the rectifier, three wires in - one wire > out. If you look at the N600 shop manual Page 17-28 there is a good > picture and description of how it works.
> There are some other
> things you could do before resurrecting your old car (Honda > 600). Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes > under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to > loose, readjust them. Clean, reset your points, > reattach or just pull all the connectors apart and put them back together > (caution here, pull them apart with caution). They have been sitting > idle for many moons, corrosion will cause the connection to be much less or > gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative side of battery), under coil > and bolted to the engine - clean everything (wire brush) and bolt back > together, a good ground makes all the difference. Check for > rodent nests, and related wire damage. If the steering seems > loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at the point where it moves through > the fire wall) pull back the carpet and watch the shaft as you move the > steering wheel. If it moves up-down back and forth... without > changing the position of the front wheels? Then your > pinion shaft bushings need to be changed out, not the tie rod > ends!!
> Have Fun, and be
> safe!
> Bill
> Brakes - bleed them
> fully, make sure good fluid is at all for wheels. check for leaks, any > sign, pull and rebuild.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of
> > geez_tech
> > Sent:
> > Friday, July 18, 2008 9:54 PM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > [anzhonda600owners]
> > Closer to getting mine running
> > Hi all,
> > It has been a while but I have slowly collected some parts and > > I > > have begun work on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, whoo
> > hoo!
> > I have done the basics so far, oil change, valve adjust (lubed > > the > > rockers while the cover was off), new points and new fan belt. While
> > I had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the bearing and
> > lubed them with some distributor points grease as it is non melting.
> > Most everything shows signs that this car really has 30,000 miles on
> > it. The fan belt may have been original as it has Japenese words on
> > it, the fuel filter looks like it was never changed either, and one
> > tire has the '72 date code on it, and it is also a bias ply > > tire.
> > Tonight I verified the fuel pump works but the fuel smells like
> > turpentine, so that will be drained and re-filled with fresh fuel and
> > I will install some new fuel lines while everything is apart to be
> > safe, the original red ones are on it now.
> > I removed the carb and was
> > surprised that the bowl was fairly clean,
> > no rust deposits in it, no
> > gunk, no corrosion. But the acclerator
> > pump diaphram is fairly hard and
> > not very flexible, I am soaking it
> > in engine oil to see if it may soften
> > up some. Anything else on the
> > carb that I should look at closely?
> > I
> > may get a battery this weekend so I can at least get some oil back > > into > > the oil passages and also check for spark.
> > I have some questions
> > though:
> > 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to > > the pump, > > it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a
> > cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking
> > and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses.
> > 2. Just
> > curious, which way does the engine turn?
> > 3. There is a "main" fuse on
> > the passenger fender, is there supposed
> > to be a cover on it? Mine does
> > not fit well in the bracket, but if it
> > was thicker it would be
> > fine.
> > 4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is > > this > > associated with the generator (alternator? )? Or is it a > > secondary > > fuse box?
> > Thanks all,
> > Mike
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.0/1555 - Release Date: 7/16/2008 6:43 AM
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Thanks Bill,
Depending on the type of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has the early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
That explains my manual and carb, the pictures show a diaphram on the top of the carb with the domed bowl removed, mine does not have this. I am getting some carb and brake spray this weekend when I get the battery, and I also have a compressor so I can check all th passages as you mentioned. I was surprised at the condition of the bowl gasket, it looks very good and re-usable considering its age. Is there a source for gasket/rebuild kits? There was a guy on E-Bay selling some a while back but I wasn't sure if they were "homemade".
oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
Yes, done and the old one was installed backwards with the dished part facing up towards the motor, the owners manual shows it facing down towards the cover. Besides E-Bay, is there another source for oil filter kits? I bought mine from Miles but he doesn't always seem to be selling on E-Bay. Surprisingly enough I found Napa to carry fuel filters and ignition condensors for these along with many other items that I may end up needing.
Fuel lines are covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still good. You can also purchase more.
Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a "emergency" repair?
Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust
them.
I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric set up?
Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause the connection to be much less or gone.
New points installed, lubed with points grease and the timing is set as per the owners manual. I also tested the vacuum advace and that also is working. Any connector removed as been sanded lightly to get rid of the corrosion/oxidation you mention although most of the wires and connections are in good shape. I will probably replace the condensor wire (blue wire) as the sheathing is coming off of it, I just need to find a new spade connector first.
Thanks for the extra tips, I will check those out this weekend.
Mike
Depending on the type of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has the early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
That explains my manual and carb, the pictures show a diaphram on the top of the carb with the domed bowl removed, mine does not have this. I am getting some carb and brake spray this weekend when I get the battery, and I also have a compressor so I can check all th passages as you mentioned. I was surprised at the condition of the bowl gasket, it looks very good and re-usable considering its age. Is there a source for gasket/rebuild kits? There was a guy on E-Bay selling some a while back but I wasn't sure if they were "homemade".
oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
Yes, done and the old one was installed backwards with the dished part facing up towards the motor, the owners manual shows it facing down towards the cover. Besides E-Bay, is there another source for oil filter kits? I bought mine from Miles but he doesn't always seem to be selling on E-Bay. Surprisingly enough I found Napa to carry fuel filters and ignition condensors for these along with many other items that I may end up needing.
Fuel lines are covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still good. You can also purchase more.
Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a "emergency" repair?
Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust
them.
I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric set up?
Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause the connection to be much less or gone.
New points installed, lubed with points grease and the timing is set as per the owners manual. I also tested the vacuum advace and that also is working. Any connector removed as been sanded lightly to get rid of the corrosion/oxidation you mention although most of the wires and connections are in good shape. I will probably replace the condensor wire (blue wire) as the sheathing is coming off of it, I just need to find a new spade connector first.
Thanks for the extra tips, I will check those out this weekend.
Mike
--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
> Hi Mike;
> Welcome to the group.
> Answers to your questions: I am soaking it
> in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the > carb that I should look at closely? the accelerator pump is bad, will leak > unless changed, soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it. Use a pin > or very small wire and check out the hole from the accelerator pump into the > fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed air check all the passageways.
> Pull the needle valve and check to see if the spring loaded pin at the top > of the needle is moving freely. Be careful not to bend anything (It was > running before, the settings should have been right) without pulling the > jets, see if they are tight while in place. If not then the O rings have > shrunk and they will need replacing. Same on the idle screw..... Depending > on the type of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has > the early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
> oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
> 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, > it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a > cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking > and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses. - Fuel lines are covered > with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still > good. You can also purchase more.
> 2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn? - With a 17mm wrench move > it from rear of the engine forward is the normal rotation.
> 3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there supposed > to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, but if it > was thicker it would be fine. - Yes, there is supposed to be a cover.
> 4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this > associated with the generator (alternator?)? Or is it a secondary > fuse box? - under the battery tray there is the rectifier, three wires in - > one wire out. If you look at the N600 shop manual Page 17-28 there is a > good picture and description of how it works.
> There are some other things you could do before resurrecting your old car > (Honda 600). Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes > under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust > them. Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors > apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart with > caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause > the connection to be much less or gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative > side of battery), under coil and bolted to the engine - clean everything > (wire brush) and bolt back together, a good ground makes all the difference.
> Check for rodent nests, and related wire damage. If the steering seems > loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at the point where it moves > through the fire wall) pull back the carpet and watch the shaft as you move > the steering wheel. If it moves up-down back and forth... without changing > the position of the front wheels? Then your pinion shaft bushings need to > be changed out, not the tie rod ends!!
> Have Fun, and be safe!
> Bill
> Brakes - bleed them fully, make sure good fluid is at all for wheels. check > for leaks, any sign, pull and rebuild.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of geez_tech > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:54 PM > To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Closer to getting mine running
> Hi all,
> It has been a while but I have slowly collected some parts and I > have begun work on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, whoo > hoo!
> I have done the basics so far, oil change, valve adjust (lubed the > rockers while the cover was off), new points and new fan belt. While > I had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the bearing and > lubed them with some distributor points grease as it is non melting.
> Most everything shows signs that this car really has 30,000 miles on > it. The fan belt may have been original as it has Japenese words on > it, the fuel filter looks like it was never changed either, and one > tire has the '72 date code on it, and it is also a bias ply tire.
> Tonight I verified the fuel pump works but the fuel smells like > turpentine, so that will be drained and re-filled with fresh fuel and > I will install some new fuel lines while everything is apart to be > safe, the original red ones are on it now.
> I removed the carb and was surprised that the bowl was fairly clean, > no rust deposits in it, no gunk, no corrosion. But the acclerator > pump diaphram is fairly hard and not very flexible, I am soaking it > in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the > carb that I should look at closely?
> I may get a battery this weekend so I can at least get some oil back > into the oil passages and also check for spark.
> I have some questions though:
> 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, > it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a > cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking > and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses.
> 2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn?
> 3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there supposed > to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, but if it > was thicker it would be fine.
> 4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this > associated with the generator (alternator?)? Or is it a secondary > fuse box?
> Thanks all,
> Mike
Re: Closer to getting mine running
The oil filter just about the one and only part I ever got from my local Honda dealer.
Just call them up and ask for part # 06154-551-505. They may tell you at first that it is not a valid part number. Push them to look further. Then after some mild surprise, they will tell you that it needs to be ordered and they'll have it in a few days. Usually about $9 for the filter, which comes packaged with a set of rubber washers.
I suggest you buy a few.
Steve www.honda600coupe.com
Just call them up and ask for part # 06154-551-505. They may tell you at first that it is not a valid part number. Push them to look further. Then after some mild surprise, they will tell you that it needs to be ordered and they'll have it in a few days. Usually about $9 for the filter, which comes packaged with a set of rubber washers.
I suggest you buy a few.
Steve www.honda600coupe.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> geez_tech
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Saturday, July 19, 2008 2:26
> PM
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: Closer
> to getting mine running
> Thanks Bill,
> Depending on the type
> of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has > the > early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
> That explains my manual and carb, the pictures show a diaphram > on the top of the carb with the domed bowl removed, mine does not have this. I > am getting some carb and brake spray this weekend when I get the battery, and > I also have a compressor so I can check all th passages as you mentioned. I > was surprised at the condition of the bowl gasket, it looks very good and > re-usable considering its age. Is there a source for gasket/rebuild kits?
> There was a guy on E-Bay selling some a while back but I wasn't sure if they > were "homemade".
> oil change - No mention of changing the oil
> filter, change it.
> Yes, done and the old one was installed backwards
> with the dished part facing up towards the motor, the owners manual shows it > facing down towards the cover. Besides E-Bay, is there another source for oil > filter kits? I bought mine from Miles but he doesn't always seem to be selling > on E-Bay. Surprisingly enough I found Napa to carry fuel filters and ignition > condensors for these along with many other items that I may end up > needing.
> Fuel lines are
> covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is > still > good. You can also purchase more.
> Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that > plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a > "emergency" repair?
> Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge
> goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, > readjust
> them.
> I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find > as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment > procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric > set up?
> Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the
> connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart > with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will > cause the connection to be much less or gone.
> New points installed, lubed with points grease and the timing is set as per > the owners manual. I also tested the vacuum advace and that also is working.
> Any connector removed as been sanded lightly to get rid of the > corrosion/oxidation you mention although most of the wires and connections are > in good shape. I will probably replace the condensor wire (blue wire) as > the sheathing is coming off of it, I just need to find a new spade connector > first.
> Thanks for the extra tips, I will check those out this
> weekend.
> Mike
> --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com,
> wrote:
> > Hi Mike;
> > Welcome to the group.
> Answers to your questions: I am soaking it
> > in engine oil to see if it
> may soften up some. Anything else on the
> > carb that I should look at
> closely? the accelerator pump is bad, will leak
> > unless changed,
> soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it. Use a pin > > or very > small wire and check out the hole from the accelerator pump into the
> fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed air check all the > passageways.
> > Pull the needle valve and check to see if the spring
> loaded pin at the top
> > of the needle is moving freely. Be careful not
> to bend anything (It was
> > running before, the settings should have been
> right) without pulling the
> > jets, see if they are tight while in place.
> If not then the O rings have
> > shrunk and they will need replacing. Same
> on the idle screw..... Depending
> > on the type of carb you have (there
> are two variations) the N600 manual has
> > the early carb, while the Z600
> supplement manual has the later version.
> > oil change - No
> mention of changing the oil filter, change it.
> > 1. The fuel
> filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, > > it is still > flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a > > cover/sleeve over > them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking > > and may fall apart > once I try to change the hoses. - Fuel lines are covered > > with a heat > shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is still > > good.
> You can also purchase more.
> > 2. Just curious, which way does
> the engine turn? - With a 17mm wrench move
> > it from rear of the engine
> forward is the normal rotation.
> > 3. There is a "main" fuse on the
> passenger fender, is there supposed
> > to be a cover on it? Mine does not
> fit well in the bracket, but if it
> > was thicker it would be fine. -
> Yes, there is supposed to be a cover.
> > 4. Underneath the
> passengers headlight there is a black box, is this
> > associated with the
> generator (alternator?)? Or is it a secondary
> > fuse box? - under the
> battery tray there is the rectifier, three wires in -
> > one wire out. If
> you look at the N600 shop manual Page 17-28 there is a
> > good picture
> and description of how it works.
> > There are some other things
> you could do before resurrecting your old car
> > (Honda 600). Check the
> adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes
> > under the rocker, 4mm
> won't) if they are to tight or to loose, readjust
> > them. Clean, reset
> your points, reattach or just pull all the connectors
> > apart and put
> them back together (caution here, pull them apart with
> > caution). They
> have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause > > the > connection to be much less or gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative
> side of battery), under coil and bolted to the engine - clean > everything > > (wire brush) and bolt back together, a good ground makes > all the difference.
> > Check for rodent nests, and related wire damage.
> If the steering seems
> > loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at
> the point where it moves
> > through the fire wall) pull back the carpet
> and watch the shaft as you move
> > the steering wheel. If it moves
> up-down back and forth... without changing
> > the position of the front
> wheels? Then your pinion shaft bushings need to
> > be changed out, not
> the tie rod ends!!
> > Have Fun, and be safe!
> Bill
> > Brakes - bleed them fully, make sure good fluid
> is at all for wheels. check
> > for leaks, any sign, pull and
> rebuild.
> > -----Original
> Message-----
> > From: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of geez_tech > > Sent:
> Friday, July 18, 2008 9:54 PM
> > To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Closer
> to getting mine running
> > Hi all,
> > It has been
> a while but I have slowly collected some parts and I
> > have begun work
> on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, whoo
> > hoo!
> > I
> have done the basics so far, oil change, valve adjust (lubed the
> rockers while the cover was off), new points and new fan belt. While > > I > had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the bearing and > > lubed > them with some distributor points grease as it is non melting.
> > Most
> everything shows signs that this car really has 30,000 miles on > > it.
> The fan belt may have been original as it has Japenese words on > > it, > the fuel filter looks like it was never changed either, and one > > tire > has the '72 date code on it, and it is also a bias ply tire.
> > Tonight I
> verified the fuel pump works but the fuel smells like
> > turpentine, so
> that will be drained and re-filled with fresh fuel and
> > I will install
> some new fuel lines while everything is apart to be
> > safe, the original
> red ones are on it now.
> > I removed the carb and was surprised that the
> bowl was fairly clean,
> > no rust deposits in it, no gunk, no corrosion.
> But the acclerator
> > pump diaphram is fairly hard and not very flexible,
> I am soaking it
> > in engine oil to see if it may soften up some.
> Anything else on the
> > carb that I should look at closely?
> > I may
> get a battery this weekend so I can at least get some oil back > > into > the oil passages and also check for spark.
> > I have some
> questions though:
> > 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going
> from the filter to the pump,
> > it is still flexible, is this factory?
> The fuel hoses have a
> > cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain
> on? Some are cracking
> > and may fall apart once I try to change the
> hoses.
> > 2. Just curious, which way does the engine
> turn?
> > 3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is
> there supposed
> > to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the
> bracket, but if it
> > was thicker it would be fine.
> > 4.
> Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black box, is this
> associated with the generator (alternator?)? Or is it a secondary > > fuse > box?
> > Thanks all,
> > Mike
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.1/1560 - Release Date: 7/18/2008 6:47 AM
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Hi Steve,
Can you tell me the city, name, and phone # of the Honda dealer where you purchase your oil filters?
thanks,
Dale
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today .
Can you tell me the city, name, and phone # of the Honda dealer where you purchase your oil filters?
thanks,
Dale
Get fantasy football with free live scoring.> The oil
> filter just about the one and only part I ever got from my local > Honda > dealer. Just call them up and ask for part # > 06154-551-505. They may tell > you at first that it is not a valid part > number. Push them to look further. Then after some > mild > surprise, they will tell you that it needs to be ordered and they'll > have it > in a few days. Usually about $9 for the filter, which comes > packaged with a > set of rubber washers.
> I suggest you buy a
> few.
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today .
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Mike;
Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a "emergency" repair?
I found a fuel line insulation kit in J.C Whitney catalong on Page 205 of Catalog #700J-07. Part number WG377543R for $13.99.
I have used a Honda Goldwing carb kit from the early 70's will work. But they didn't have an accelerator pump.
I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric set up?
Correct, and normally owners over tighten the bolt. Factory specs ate there for a purpose and to much torque can cause other problems. So always recheck settings before saying your done.
Good check on the Blue wire in the distributor. Also look at the breaker plate, if there is side movement it may need to be repaired. Go to the Yahoo Group site for ANZhonda600ownres in the text section.
Bill
Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a "emergency" repair?
I found a fuel line insulation kit in J.C Whitney catalong on Page 205 of Catalog #700J-07. Part number WG377543R for $13.99.
I have used a Honda Goldwing carb kit from the early 70's will work. But they didn't have an accelerator pump.
I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric set up?
Correct, and normally owners over tighten the bolt. Factory specs ate there for a purpose and to much torque can cause other problems. So always recheck settings before saying your done.
Good check on the Blue wire in the distributor. Also look at the breaker plate, if there is side movement it may need to be repaired. Go to the Yahoo Group site for ANZhonda600ownres in the text section.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> geez_tech
> Sent:
> Saturday, July 19, 2008 11:26 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re:
> Closer to getting mine running
> Thanks Bill,
> Depending on the type
> of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has > the > early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
> That explains my manual and carb, the pictures show a diaphram > on the top of the carb with the domed bowl removed, mine does not have this. I > am getting some carb and brake spray this weekend when I get the battery, and > I also have a compressor so I can check all th passages as you mentioned. I > was surprised at the condition of the bowl gasket, it looks very good and > re-usable considering its age. Is there a source for gasket/rebuild kits?
> There was a guy on E-Bay selling some a while back but I wasn't sure if they > were "homemade".
> oil change - No mention of changing the oil
> filter, change it.
> Yes, done and the old one was installed backwards
> with the dished part facing up towards the motor, the owners manual shows it > facing down towards the cover. Besides E-Bay, is there another source for oil > filter kits? I bought mine from Miles but he doesn't always seem to be selling > on E-Bay. Surprisingly enough I found Napa to carry fuel filters and ignition > condensors for these along with many other items that I may end up > needing.
> Fuel lines are
> covered with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it in place if it is > still > good. You can also purchase more.
> Where can I find these covers if mine break too much? Is that > plastic blue hose on the fuel filter a factory hose or maybe a > "emergency" repair?
> Check the adjustment on the rockers (3mm feeler gauge
> goes under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they are to tight or to loose, > readjust
> them.
> I did that already and were a little bit loose, good to find > as I was afraid they would be tight and possibly burned. Odd adjustment > procedure with the lock bolt and turning the shaft, I take it it as eccentric > set up?
> Clean, reset your points, reattach or just pull all the
> connectors apart and put them back together (caution here, pull them apart > with caution). They have been sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will > cause the connection to be much less or gone.
> New points installed, lubed with points grease and the timing is set as per > the owners manual. I also tested the vacuum advace and that also is working.
> Any connector removed as been sanded lightly to get rid of the > corrosion/oxidation you mention although most of the wires and connections are > in good shape. I will probably replace the condensor wire (blue wire) as > the sheathing is coming off of it, I just need to find a new spade connector > first.
> Thanks for the extra tips, I will check those out this
> weekend.
> Mike
> --- In anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com,
> wrote:
> > Hi Mike;
> > Welcome to
> the group.
> > Answers to your questions: I am soaking it
> in engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the
> carb that I should look at closely? the accelerator pump is bad, will > leak > > unless changed, soaking it in engine oil will do nothing for it.
> Use a pin
> > or very small wire and check out the hole from the
> accelerator pump into the
> > fuel bowl. Using carb-cleaner and compressed
> air check all the passageways.
> > Pull the needle valve and check to see
> if the spring loaded pin at the top
> > of the needle is moving freely. Be
> careful not to bend anything (It was
> > running before, the settings
> should have been right) without pulling the
> > jets, see if they are
> tight while in place. If not then the O rings have
> > shrunk and they
> will need replacing. Same on the idle screw..... Depending > > on the type > of carb you have (there are two variations) the N600 manual has > > the > early carb, while the Z600 supplement manual has the later version.
> > oil change - No mention of changing the oil filter, change > it.
> > 1. The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter > to the pump, > > it is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses > have a > > cover/sleeve over them, do they need to remain on? Some are > cracking > > and may fall apart once I try to change the hoses. - Fuel > lines are covered > > with a heat shield material from factory. Leave it > in place if it is still > > good. You can also purchase more.
> > 2. Just curious, which way does the engine turn? - With a 17mm wrench > move > > it from rear of the engine forward is the normal > rotation.
> > 3. There is a "main" fuse on the passenger fender, is there > supposed > > to be a cover on it? Mine does not fit well in the bracket, > but if it > > was thicker it would be fine. - Yes, there is supposed to be > a cover.
> > 4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a
> black box, is this
> > associated with the generator (alternator? )?
> Or is it a secondary
> > fuse box? - under the battery tray there is the
> rectifier, three wires in -
> > one wire out. If you look at the N600 shop
> manual Page 17-28 there is a
> > good picture and description of how it
> works.
> > There are some other things you could do before
> resurrecting your old car
> > (Honda 600). Check the adjustment on the
> rockers (3mm feeler gauge goes
> > under the rocker, 4mm won't) if they
> are to tight or to loose, readjust
> > them. Clean, reset your points,
> reattach or just pull all the connectors
> > apart and put them back
> together (caution here, pull them apart with
> > caution). They have been
> sitting idle for many moons, corrosion will cause
> > the connection to be
> much less or gone. Pull the ground strap (Negative
> > side of battery),
> under coil and bolted to the engine - clean everything
> > (wire brush)
> and bolt back together, a good ground makes all the difference.
> > Check
> for rodent nests, and related wire damage. If the steering seems
> loose, check the rack at the pinion shaft (at the point where it moves
> through the fire wall) pull back the carpet and watch the shaft as you > move > > the steering wheel. If it moves up-down back and forth... without > changing > > the position of the front wheels? Then your pinion shaft > bushings need to > > be changed out, not the tie rod ends!!
> > Have Fun, and be safe!
> > Bill
> > Brakes - bleed them fully, make sure good fluid is at all for wheels.
> check
> > for leaks, any sign, pull and rebuild.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> [mailto:anzhonda600 owners@yahoogrou ps.com]On Behalf Of > geez_tech > > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 9:54 PM > > To:
> anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Closer to getting mine running
> Hi all,
> > It has been a while but I have slowly collected some parts and > I > > have begun work on my N600, it may be running by next weekend, > whoo > > hoo!
> > I have done the basics so far, oil change, valve
> adjust (lubed the
> > rockers while the cover was off), new points and new
> fan belt. While
> > I had the pulleys off I removed the dust seal on the
> bearing and
> > lubed them with some distributor points grease as it is
> non melting.
> > Most everything shows signs that this car really has
> 30,000 miles on
> > it. The fan belt may have been original as it has
> Japenese words on
> > it, the fuel filter looks like it was never changed
> either, and one
> > tire has the '72 date code on it, and it is also a
> bias ply tire.
> > Tonight I verified the fuel pump works but the fuel
> smells like
> > turpentine, so that will be drained and re-filled with
> fresh fuel and
> > I will install some new fuel lines while everything is
> apart to be
> > safe, the original red ones are on it now.
> > I
> removed the carb and was surprised that the bowl was fairly clean, > > no > rust deposits in it, no gunk, no corrosion. But the acclerator > > pump > diaphram is fairly hard and not very flexible, I am soaking it > > in > engine oil to see if it may soften up some. Anything else on the > > carb > that I should look at closely?
> > I may get a battery this weekend so I
> can at least get some oil back
> > into the oil passages and also check
> for spark.
> > I have some questions though:
> > 1.
> The fuel filter has a blue hose going from the filter to the pump, > > it > is still flexible, is this factory? The fuel hoses have a > > cover/sleeve > over them, do they need to remain on? Some are cracking > > and may fall > apart once I try to change the hoses.
> > 2. Just curious, which
> way does the engine turn?
> > 3. There is a "main" fuse on the
> passenger fender, is there supposed
> > to be a cover on it? Mine does not
> fit well in the bracket, but if it
> > was thicker it would be
> fine.
> > 4. Underneath the passengers headlight there is a black
> box, is this
> > associated with the generator (alternator? )? Or is
> it a secondary
> > fuse box?
> > Thanks all,
> Mike
Re: Closer to getting mine running
doesn't matter. they looked it up in a database that all dealers have and ordered it from a centrall location.
FWIW, Joyce Honda, Denville, NJ
FWIW, Joyce Honda, Denville, NJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> goinhm@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Sunday, July 20, 2008 3:22 AM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re:
> Closer to getting mine running
> Hi Steve,
> Can you tell me the city, name, and phone # of
> the Honda dealer where you purchase your oil filters?
> thanks,
> Dale
> > The oil
> > filter just about the one and only part I ever got from my local > > Honda > > dealer. Just call them up and ask for part # > > 06154-551-505. They may tell > > you at first that it is not a valid > > part number. Push them to look further. Then after some > > mild > > surprise, they will tell you that it needs to be ordered and they'll > > have it > > in a few days. Usually about $9 for the filter, which comes > > packaged with a > > set of rubber washers.
> > I suggest you buy a
> > few.
> Get fantasy football with free live scoring.
> Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football
> today
> .
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.2/1562 - Release Date: 7/19/2008 2:01 PM
Re: Closer to getting mine running
Thanks, Steve.
Although it may be in a common database, when I talked to the local dealer near me, they were not very helpful. When I talk to them again, if they cannot figure it out, I'll have my local person talk to the parts person at Joyce to learn the system. Or maybe I'll order the part through Joyce Honda and have it available for pickup at the place where I live.
Dale
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today .
Although it may be in a common database, when I talked to the local dealer near me, they were not very helpful. When I talk to them again, if they cannot figure it out, I'll have my local person talk to the parts person at Joyce to learn the system. Or maybe I'll order the part through Joyce Honda and have it available for pickup at the place where I live.
Dale
Get fantasy football with free live scoring.> doesn't matter. they looked it up in a database that all dealers > have and ordered it from a centrall location.
> FWIW, Joyce Honda, Denville,
> NJ
Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today .
-
Mike and Tami Speer
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 12:07 am
Re: Closer to getting mine running
When calling a dealer it may be best to have the part numbers ready and don’t mention what car it is for, I will be trying this with my local Honda dealer. The young ones may just tell you they can’t get it once they hear ‘72, the ones that have been around for a while may be more inclined to help. I went through this with a VW dealer for my air cooled, if it is available and they can get it then they should look it up and order it.
Mike
Mike