Back to remote oil filter/cooler
Back to remote oil filter/cooler
A while back we discussed Bill's remote oil cooler/filter. I was wonder why the center bolt was cleared out and plugged with another tube. Why not drill it out and braze the side holes shut?
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Robert James
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:43 am
Re: Back to remote oil filter/cooler
Good morning. �I am sure Bill will weigh in here, but he did my center bolt and it works perfectly (think I finally got all the leaks stopped - there are many connections!) �It may just be that Bill's design simply requires less brazing and is therefore less expensive to build. �The oil cooler did cost a few bucks, but a lot less than an engine rebuild!
On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 7:32 AM,
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> A while back we discussed Bill's remote oil cooler/filter. I was wonder why the center bolt was cleared out and plugged with another tube. Why not drill it out and braze the side holes shut?
Back to remote oil filter/cooler
You can weld the holes shut, but at greater expense. I use a jig to drill and tap the end of the center bolt, sleeving and putting the roll pin back in place to hold the sleeve works.
At idle the oil pressure is normally zero but has a flow rate of all the oil passed through the filter every minute. That's 1100 rpm, and with running ranges in the 5 to 6 thousand rpm's the oil is passing through the filter at around 24 to 26 quarts a minute. I watched the oil temp go over 230 degrees after a 20 minute run down the freeway and then stop at the off ramp light without the oil cooler. With the oil cooler the heat ranges stay at around 190 and on the freeway will maintain a 165 temp. Every engine I took apart had black tar on the inside engine cases, every one. The oil cooked to a point it was forming tar on all the interior engine parts and cases. During testing of the effects of the oil cooler, I broke down the engine every 10K miles to inspect for wear. The cases were clean, the parts showed no wear. This was on an engine that had used pistions, used rings, it had a valve job the only new parts were gaskets, seals and a new cam chain. Everything else was within spec and serviceable. The test went for 45K
At idle the oil pressure is normally zero but has a flow rate of all the oil passed through the filter every minute. That's 1100 rpm, and with running ranges in the 5 to 6 thousand rpm's the oil is passing through the filter at around 24 to 26 quarts a minute. I watched the oil temp go over 230 degrees after a 20 minute run down the freeway and then stop at the off ramp light without the oil cooler. With the oil cooler the heat ranges stay at around 190 and on the freeway will maintain a 165 temp. Every engine I took apart had black tar on the inside engine cases, every one. The oil cooked to a point it was forming tar on all the interior engine parts and cases. During testing of the effects of the oil cooler, I broke down the engine every 10K miles to inspect for wear. The cases were clean, the parts showed no wear. This was on an engine that had used pistions, used rings, it had a valve job the only new parts were gaskets, seals and a new cam chain. Everything else was within spec and serviceable. The test went for 45K
Re: Back to remote oil filter/cooler
The brazing will be me and I have the materials Most likely I will drill the 7/16" hole in the bolt on a lath. I am going to start with the remote filter and monitor the oil temp with a sender I have in the oil pan. Compared to VW's these motors run pretty cool. I already have the sensors because, don't hate me, I am running fuel injection.
Back to remote oil filter/cooler
Modifications are the mechanics dream. When ever anyone says they made this change or mod to their otherwise original car, I tell them "You have to drive it" It's better to see a modified Honda 600 running down the road than watch it get crushed. My only consern with the mods to the engine is that it might cause it to exceed it's design.
Bill
Bill