--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "feltonminicycle" wrote:
> Here's my 2 cents, no, I can't make change, I have found many times that driveshaft itself will actually wear. You can feel a ridge where the bearings seat. Since the stub axle is hardened theres no making it bigger by punching it. Changing the wheel bearings will have no effect on that worn area, your wheel will still wobble around.
> There's still plenty of used steering knuckles around that aren't worn out and they are same for coupe and sedan, so if your bearing just falls into the knuckle you better be replacing it or repairing it.
> 6305 is the correct bearing but if you get an aftermarket one count the captured balls. Some have 1 fewer than others. Honda made a special tool for replacing the driveshaft - for pushing it out while knuckle is still on the car and pulling it back in after whatever proceedure you are doing is complete. CV boots, wheel bearings, etc repairs but you don't really need this hard to find tool. One thing you don't want to do though is hammer the driveshaft out as the threads aren't hardened and you will mushroom the end of the driveshaft.
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> > Dale got you of to a good start, but there are a few more details to keep in
> > mind.
> > Original Honda front wheel bearings are ball bearing with a single sealing
> > cover on the out side of each bearing. Most folks pull the half shaft along
> > with the steering knuckle and A arm and take them to a front end shop to
> > have the bearings pressed out. The new bearings (Front wheel bearing
> > requires 2 each side #6305) and will be sealed (seals on both sides) No
> > grease necessary on these. (The originals will need about a pint of grease
> > between the bearings) Remember to remove the dust seals with care as these
> > can be reused if not damaged. Clean everything and don't lose the spacer
> > between the bearings, this is necessary to hold the bearings apart when
> > bolting things back together.
> > Caution, the bearing seat in the housing on many knuckles is worn and not
> > allowing the bearing to seat. (this is normally the reason they need to be
> > changed out) There are bearing retaining compounds that will lock the
> > bearings in place. The problem is getting the bearing centered in the
> > knuckle before the compound sets. Locktite has a range of products to
> > accomplish this and most are available off the shelf. However once again
> > getting the bearing centered is the chore.
> > What you can do is cause the inner area of the opening to increase in size
> > by using a sharpened (to a point) nail punch and make a series of
> > indentations or dimples in the metal inside surface area where the bearing
> > seats. Since the bearing seat is about a quarter inch below the outer edge
> > of the knuckle bearing housing you should keep the dimples in this area and
> > about four across making the same number on both sides in an X configuration
> > to keep the number of indentations or dimples the same on all sides. Use a
> > retaining compound like Locktite #620, it's high temperature (400 F) high
> > viscosity liquid. Sets in 30 Minutes at room temperature. It provides a
> > shear strength of 3,000 psi on steel. Use a bearing tool tap the bearings
> > in place. Remember, lots of dimples will give a better surface to center
> > the bearing.
> > Pulling the axle back through the bearings can be hard. But you should be
> > able to get a few threads to show and then by using the castle nut and
> > washer (s), larger nuts even the box end of larger wrenches will work to
> > give some added space to work the shaft through and seat it against the
> > cover of the dust seal in the inside of the assembly.
> > Also, remember this is not the front bearings on a Chevy, the Castle nut
> > should be torque to about 150 pounds feet. (or as tight as you can get it)
> > No backing the nut off here. It really needs to be tight. If the holes
> > don't line up for the pin, make it tighter then put the pin in.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of goinhm@
> > Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 7:35 PM
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Wheel bearing...update to my msg
> > In my msg below, I mentioned a damaged CV boot will cause the wheel
> > bearing to fail..... this is not correct.
> > A damaged CV boot will only cause the CV joint to fail. The front wheel
> > bearing damage can be caused by a failure on the inner or outer seals in the
> > front wheel bearing housing. The outer seal is easy to check. The inner
> > seal is not very easy to check because you must remove four 10mm head bolts
> > and remove a plate which presses against the seal. It is must easier to
> > inspect this seal after the cv joint is removed since the seal must be taken
> > out to remove/install the new bearings. And don't forget to check the
> > o-ring which is used at this plate.
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > Aki,
> > You may not need to replace all 4 (2 on each side). With the wheel
> > (and tire) mounted, jack the car off the ground and grab the tire at the
> > top and bottom. If the bearings are bad, you will be able to rock the
> > tire/wheel assembly and feel some free play. If the wheel bearings are bad,
> > you will feel free play and you may hear some noise. If you feel free play,
> > replace both bearings on that side. If you don't feel any free play, the
> > bearings are still good and do not need replacement.
> > While there are many reasons why the bearings fail, two most likely
> > causes are a damaged CV boot and a damaged dust seal on the bearings. You
> > can visually inspect both. To see the dust seal, you need to remove the
> > front brake rotor. The bearings have a number stamped on them by the
> > manufacturer. This number can be used to cross reference to bearings from
> > other companies. I have seen them for sale on eBay and I have also
> > purchased them from Napa Auto Parts. The bearing sold by Napa was cheaper
> > with the dust seal attached on one side. BTW, any company which sells
> > bearings should be able to help you.
> > If anyone needs the part numbers I bought from Napa, post a msg
> > here and I'll go take a look in my parts bin.
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > This group is awesome!
> > Thanks for your quick response, Kevin!
> > You are right.
> > The part I found was Timken TM305D.
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details ... ring/1970/
> > Base/2_Cyl_0-dot-6L/TM305D.html?location=Front
> > I'll replace the both side as you adviced : )
> > Thanks,
> > Aki