Honda rotisserie

[lyletrudell]

I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the Honda and my other small cars.
If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so light.
Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
But, for safety reasons I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
I will use the engine mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
For the rear, I will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but I want to work on that area.
The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are hiding.
The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders. Shouldn't be too bad.
I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had a frame.
I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be a nice little car when I'm done.
I will take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it. Probably will be ready this weekend.
Lyle

[bluegrassaviator]

I am 15 months into a "frame off" and have replaced tons of metal. The inner fender wells are a common rust spot. I replaced over half of each fender well. Looks great now. I agree with using metal to replace metal. It takes a lot more time but makes a better product. Mine is now in DP90 and almost ready for body work. I reenforced the roof with metal strips and it really made a difference removing the tin can effect. Once the headliner is in, you'll never tell. I have rebuilt every component on this car to include the steering rack and brake system. Lots of powder coating! Good luck

--- In
2cylinrhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the Honda and my other small cars.
> If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so light.
> Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
> But, for safety reasons I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
> I will use the engine mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
> For the rear, I will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but I want to work on that area.
> The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are hiding.
> The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders. Shouldn't be too bad.
> I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had a frame.
> I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be a nice little car when I'm done.
> I will take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it. Probably will be ready this weekend.
> Lyle

[lyletrudell]

Hi, thanks for the reply.
Sounds like your doing the restoration the right way, the extra time will pay off with a car you will be proud of.
I am interested in your roof strips you added?
My coupe has a dent and a few ripples from something put on the roof.
And the tin can effect makes it a hassle trying to repair it.
What did you do to stiffen up the roof?
Lyle

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "bluegrassaviator" wrote:
> I am 15 months into a "frame off" and have replaced tons of metal. The inner fender wells are a common rust spot. I replaced over half of each fender well. Looks great now. I agree with using metal to replace metal. It takes a lot more time but makes a better product. Mine is now in DP90 and almost ready for body work. I reenforced the roof with metal strips and it really made a difference removing the tin can effect. Once the headliner is in, you'll never tell. I have rebuilt every component on this car to include the steering rack and brake system. Lots of powder coating! Good luck

[lyletrudell]

Was working on a design and material list.
I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
It won't be as bad as it sounds.
*As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
This weekend I will get going on it.
Lyle

[friend]

All
If your planning on using the same head liner configuration, putting anything in the roof will make it more difficult to move the headliner wire arcs (they are sewn into the head liner) while installing it.  Also, these wires are thin and even thicker foam rubber padding shows.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > bluegrassaviator > Sent:
> Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:24
> PM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: Honda rotisserie
> I am 15 months into a "frame off" and have replaced tons of metal. The > inner fender wells are a common rust spot. I replaced over half of each fender > well. Looks great now. I agree with using metal to replace metal. It takes a > lot more time but makes a better product. Mine is now in DP90 and almost ready > for body work. I reenforced the roof with metal strips and it really made a > difference removing the tin can effect. Once the headliner is in, you'll never > tell. I have rebuilt every component on this car to include the steering rack > and brake system. Lots of powder coating! Good luck > --- In > 2cylinrhondas@ yahoogroups. com > , > "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > I decided to
> build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the Honda and my other > small cars.
> > If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could > make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so > light.
> > Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
> > But, for safety reasons I
> will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The > pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
> > I will use the engine
> mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square > tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
> > For the rear, I
> will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was > going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but I want to work > on that area.
> > The car has very little visible rust, but I
> have completely stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that > are hiding.
> > The only problem areas I have found are the front inner
> fenders, the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear > fenders. Shouldn't be too bad.
> > I guess I am doing a frame off
> restoration, if it had a frame.
> > I will be repairing all damaged areas
> with metal, so it should be a nice little car when I'm done.
> > I will
> take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it. Probably > will be ready this weekend.
> > Lyle

[bluegrassaviator]

It's actually pretty easy to design strips that will have no impact on the head liner. This is a fairly simple task but could be difficult for some.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> All
> If your planning on using the same head liner configuration, putting
> anything in the roof will make it more difficult to move the headliner wire
> arcs (they are sewn into the head liner) while installing it. Also, these
> wires are thin and even thicker foam rubber padding shows.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of bluegrassaviator
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:24 PM
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Honda rotisserie
> I am 15 months into a "frame off" and have replaced tons of metal. The
> inner fender wells are a common rust spot. I replaced over half of each
> fender well. Looks great now. I agree with using metal to replace metal. It
> takes a lot more time but makes a better product. Mine is now in DP90 and
> almost ready for body work. I reenforced the roof with metal strips and it
> really made a difference removing the tin can effect. Once the headliner is
> in, you'll never tell. I have rebuilt every component on this car to include
> the steering rack and brake system. Lots of powder coating! Good luck
> --- In
2cylinrhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell"
> wrote:
> > I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the
> Honda and my other small cars.
> > If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could make it out of
> very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so light.
> > Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
> > But, for safety reasons I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the
> base and upright support. The pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD
> tube.
> > I will use the engine mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel
> plates welded to a 1-3/4" square tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the
> middle.
> > For the rear, I will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where
> the bumpers go. I was going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting
> pad, but I want to work on that area.
> > The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely stripped the
> car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are hiding.
> > The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, the
> area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders.
> Shouldn't be too bad.
> > I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had a frame.
> > I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be a nice
> little car when I'm done.
> > I will take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it.
> Probably will be ready this weekend.
> > Lyle

[friend]

Correct, but without opening the question to discussion most trying to strengthen the roof on their Honda 600 will be at the end of their project before seeing the problem.   Then, getting a smooth even surface the headliner bows to push against will be one more problem to be solved.
Bill

[Dave Rulez]

I have my car on a rotisserie right now. I will get some pictures up on my blog soon for everyone to see.
Dave

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Was working on a design and material list.
> I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> This weekend I will get going on it.
> Lyle

[lyletrudell]

Happy day!
Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
Lyle

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Dave Rulez" wrote:
> I have my car on a rotisserie right now. I will get some pictures up on my blog soon for everyone to see.
> Dave
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > Was working on a design and material list.
> > I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> > My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> > I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> > The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> > I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> > And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> > It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> > *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> > Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> > The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> > The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> > The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> > I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> > I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> > This weekend I will get going on it.
> > Lyle

[lyletrudell]

Check out my Rotisserie in the photo section. It works great and now I can move the car out of my way. It will make working on the car so much easier. Lyle

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Happy day!
> Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
> Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
> Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
> The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
> The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
> Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
> I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
> Lyle
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Dave Rulez" wrote:
> > I have my car on a rotisserie right now. I will get some pictures up on my blog soon for everyone to see.
> > Dave
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > Was working on a design and material list.
> > > I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> > > My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> > > I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> > > The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> > > I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> > > And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> > > It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> > > *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> > > Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> > > The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> > > The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> > > The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> > > I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> > > I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> > > This weekend I will get going on it.
> > > Lyle