carb kit
Re: carb kit
Write this guy and ask. He was making/selling carb bits on ebay a while
back...
theenginebuilder@...
back...
theenginebuilder@...
Re: carb kit
Thanks Steven, Got an e-mail off to him.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Steven
> Michelsen
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Friday, June 27, 2008 6:08 PM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas] carb
> kit
> Write this guy and ask. He was making/selling carb bits on ebay a while
> back...
> theenginebuilder@ earthlink. net
> -----
> Original Message -----
> From: "cotton" cotteni@brazosnet. com
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent:
> Friday, June 27, 2008 7:06 PM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] carb
> kit
> > Does anyone sell carb rebuild kits? My little 600 sedan runs > in the > > shop > > pretty good on half choke and third choke after > it warms up. Been moving > > Solenoid plunger to no avail. Can't afford to > buy a re-built carb.
> cotteni@brazosnet. com
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
> > Yahoo!
> Groups
> Links
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> 8:27
> AM
Re: carb kit
There isn't very much to rebuild on these carbs. I have found the biggest problems to be the following;
1) blocked passages...... to fix, take the carb apart and put in carb cleaner for a week. Use a fine wire (the high E string of a guitar works well) to clean out passages. Don't use a wire on the fuel jets .... if you must poke something through them, use a toothpick or plastic fishing line or something which will not scratch the metal. Be sure all the o-rings and gaskets are removed before cleaning since the carb cleaner will make the neoprene parts swell.
When you are disassembling the screws which attach the bowl to the carb, you may find the screws are difficult to turn. If you encounter a problem and you don't have an impact screwdriver, use a philips driver and tap it on top with a hammer while trying to turn the screw counter-clockwise. It may take a fast and deliberate tap to free the screw.
2) the needle and seat leak .... way to fix this is to replace the needle and seat
3) the o-rings on the fuel jets need to be replaced because the jets do not seat tight ..... way to fix this is to replace the o-rings and they can be found at a hardware store (or automotive shop)
4) sealing gasket is damaged ..... must replace gasket
5) accelerator pump diaphragm is damaged ..... must replace this item and it could be hard to find
6) idle mixture screw is damaged ..... must replace or resurface the tip
7) boot which goes from carb to air cleaner is damaged .....
must fix or replace
8) carb solenoid is not working ....... replace solenoid and o-ring OR use a toothpick to keep it retracted OR cut off the plunger so it is always "retracted". Be sure the o-ring is good.
9) float not set properly ...... set to correct level
10) float is damaged ....... drop the float in a container of gas or water and see if it floats. If it sinks, you can replace it (hard to find) or repair it. The metal ones can be repaired with solder or JB Weld if you can locate the pinhole. The plastic floats need to be dried out and then coated with an epoxy or other material which resists gas/alcohol. Verify it floats.
I find that cleaning them thoroughly is the #1 way to restore their performance. I don't recall ever having a 600 carb which was worn out. I have had carbs for boats and GM vehicles which were worn at the accelerator shafts and could not be easily rebuilt without access to a machine shop. I have never had that problem with a 600 carb although I realize it could happen.....I guess because none of my parts has ever had over 150K miles on it.
good luck,
Dale
1) blocked passages...... to fix, take the carb apart and put in carb cleaner for a week. Use a fine wire (the high E string of a guitar works well) to clean out passages. Don't use a wire on the fuel jets .... if you must poke something through them, use a toothpick or plastic fishing line or something which will not scratch the metal. Be sure all the o-rings and gaskets are removed before cleaning since the carb cleaner will make the neoprene parts swell.
When you are disassembling the screws which attach the bowl to the carb, you may find the screws are difficult to turn. If you encounter a problem and you don't have an impact screwdriver, use a philips driver and tap it on top with a hammer while trying to turn the screw counter-clockwise. It may take a fast and deliberate tap to free the screw.
2) the needle and seat leak .... way to fix this is to replace the needle and seat
3) the o-rings on the fuel jets need to be replaced because the jets do not seat tight ..... way to fix this is to replace the o-rings and they can be found at a hardware store (or automotive shop)
4) sealing gasket is damaged ..... must replace gasket
5) accelerator pump diaphragm is damaged ..... must replace this item and it could be hard to find
6) idle mixture screw is damaged ..... must replace or resurface the tip
7) boot which goes from carb to air cleaner is damaged .....
must fix or replace
8) carb solenoid is not working ....... replace solenoid and o-ring OR use a toothpick to keep it retracted OR cut off the plunger so it is always "retracted". Be sure the o-ring is good.
9) float not set properly ...... set to correct level
10) float is damaged ....... drop the float in a container of gas or water and see if it floats. If it sinks, you can replace it (hard to find) or repair it. The metal ones can be repaired with solder or JB Weld if you can locate the pinhole. The plastic floats need to be dried out and then coated with an epoxy or other material which resists gas/alcohol. Verify it floats.
I find that cleaning them thoroughly is the #1 way to restore their performance. I don't recall ever having a 600 carb which was worn out. I have had carbs for boats and GM vehicles which were worn at the accelerator shafts and could not be easily rebuilt without access to a machine shop. I have never had that problem with a 600 carb although I realize it could happen.....I guess because none of my parts has ever had over 150K miles on it.
good luck,
Dale
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars .> Does
> anyone sell carb rebuild kits? My little 600 sedan runs in the shop > pretty > good on half choke and third choke after it warms up. Been moving > Solenoid > plunger to no avail. Can't afford to buy a re-built carb.
> cotteni@brazosnet. com
-
superhawkman2001
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 11:08 pm
Re: carb kit
I have a rebuilt carb for sale
Re: carb kit
I doubt I can afford a rebuilt but you can let me know total price and I;ll take it into consideration. Still need the Solenoid as mine is bad --If anyone has one let me know, Thanks.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> ddessureau@...
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Saturday, June 28, 2008 6:54
> AM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas] carb
> kit
> I have a rebuilt carb for sale
> -----Original
> Message-----
> From:
> goinhm@...
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent:
> Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:01 am
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] carb kit
> There isn't very much to rebuild on these carbs. I have found the > biggest problems to be the following;
> 1) blocked passages.... .. to fix, take the carb apart
> and put in carb cleaner for a week. Use a fine wire (the high E > string of a guitar works well) to clean out passages. Don't use a wire > on the fuel jets .... if you must poke something through them, use a > toothpick or plastic fishing line or something which will not scratch the > metal. Be sure all the o-rings and gaskets are removed before > cleaning since the carb cleaner will make the neoprene parts swell.
> When you are disassembling the screws which attach the bowl to the > carb, you may find the screws are difficult to turn. If you > encounter a problem and you don't have an impact screwdriver, use a > philips driver and tap it on top with a hammer while trying to turn the > screw counter-clockwise. It may take a fast and deliberate tap to > free the screw.
> 2) the needle and seat leak .... way to fix this is to
> replace the needle and seat
> 3) the o-rings on the fuel jets need to be replaced because > the jets do not seat tight ..... way to fix this is to replace the o-rings and > they can be found at a hardware store (or automotive shop)
> 4) sealing gasket is damaged ..... must replace gasket
> 5) accelerator pump diaphragm is damaged ..... must replace this > item and it could be hard to find
> 6) idle mixture screw is damaged ..... must replace or resurface > the tip
> 7) boot which goes from carb to air cleaner is damaged .....
> must fix or replace
> 8) carb solenoid is not working ....... replace solenoid and > o-ring OR use a toothpick to keep it retracted OR cut off the plunger so > it is always "retracted". Be sure the o-ring is good.
> 9) float not set properly ...... set to correct level
> 10) float is damaged ....... drop the float in a container > of gas or water and see if it floats. If it sinks, you can replace > it (hard to find) or repair it. The metal ones can be repaired with > solder or JB Weld if you can locate the pinhole. The plastic floats > need to be dried out and then coated with an epoxy or other material > which resists gas/alcohol. Verify it floats.
> I find that cleaning them thoroughly is the #1 way to restore their > performance. I don't recall ever having a 600 carb which was worn > out. I have had carbs for boats and GM vehicles which were worn at the > accelerator shafts and could not be easily rebuilt without access to a machine > shop. I have never had that problem with a 600 carb although I realize > it could happen.....I guess because none of my parts has ever had over 150K > miles on it.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > Does
> > anyone sell carb rebuild kits? My little 600 sedan runs in the shop
> > pretty good on half choke and third choke after it warms up. Been moving
> > Solenoid plunger to no avail. Can't afford to buy a re-built carb.
> > cotteni@brazosnet. com
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient > used > cars > .
> Get the Moviefone Toolbar
> . Showtimes, theaters, movie news,
> more!
Re: carb kit
Thanks Dale, I think my best shot is to send yours and Bills responses to my carb rebuilding friend and let him decide what he prefers to do. If he is good on quadra-jets he should be able to handle this.
You guys are the greatest. Would love to buy y'all a cold beer or big red soda pop according to your prefrences.
You guys are the greatest. Would love to buy y'all a cold beer or big red soda pop according to your prefrences.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> goinhm@...
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Friday, June 27, 2008 11:01
> PM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas] carb
> kit
> There isn't very much to rebuild on these carbs. I have found the > biggest problems to be the following;
> 1) blocked passages.... .. to fix, take the carb apart
> and put in carb cleaner for a week. Use a fine wire (the high E > string of a guitar works well) to clean out passages. Don't use a wire > on the fuel jets .... if you must poke something through them, use a > toothpick or plastic fishing line or something which will not scratch the > metal. Be sure all the o-rings and gaskets are removed before > cleaning since the carb cleaner will make the neoprene parts swell.
> When you are disassembling the screws which attach the bowl to the > carb, you may find the screws are difficult to turn. If you > encounter a problem and you don't have an impact screwdriver, use a > philips driver and tap it on top with a hammer while trying to turn the > screw counter-clockwise. It may take a fast and deliberate tap to > free the screw.
> 2) the needle and seat leak .... way to fix this is to
> replace the needle and seat
> 3) the o-rings on the fuel jets need to be replaced because > the jets do not seat tight ..... way to fix this is to replace the o-rings and > they can be found at a hardware store (or automotive shop)
> 4) sealing gasket is damaged ..... must replace gasket
> 5) accelerator pump diaphragm is damaged ..... must replace this > item and it could be hard to find
> 6) idle mixture screw is damaged ..... must replace or resurface > the tip
> 7) boot which goes from carb to air cleaner is damaged .....
> must fix or replace
> 8) carb solenoid is not working ....... replace solenoid and > o-ring OR use a toothpick to keep it retracted OR cut off the plunger so > it is always "retracted". Be sure the o-ring is good.
> 9) float not set properly ...... set to correct level
> 10) float is damaged ....... drop the float in a container > of gas or water and see if it floats. If it sinks, you can replace > it (hard to find) or repair it. The metal ones can be repaired with > solder or JB Weld if you can locate the pinhole. The plastic floats > need to be dried out and then coated with an epoxy or other material > which resists gas/alcohol. Verify it floats.
> I find that cleaning them thoroughly is the #1 way to restore their > performance. I don't recall ever having a 600 carb which was worn > out. I have had carbs for boats and GM vehicles which were worn at the > accelerator shafts and could not be easily rebuilt without access to a machine > shop. I have never had that problem with a 600 carb although I realize > it could happen.....I guess because none of my parts has ever had over 150K > miles on it.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > Does
> > anyone sell carb rebuild kits? My little 600 sedan runs in the shop
> > pretty good on half choke and third choke after it warms up. Been moving
> > Solenoid plunger to no avail. Can't afford to buy a re-built carb.
> > cotteni@brazosnet. com
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient > used > cars > .
Re: carb kit
Show your mechanic the page from the coupe service manual on setting the float (see Steve's page, click here ).
For the float level, the manual calls out 20.5 mm or 0.82 inches. The inches part is incorrect..... it should read 20.5 mm or
0.807 inches
good luck,
Dale
For the float level, the manual calls out 20.5 mm or 0.82 inches. The inches part is incorrect..... it should read 20.5 mm or
0.807 inches
good luck,
Dale
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars .> I think my best shot is
> to send yours and Bills responses to my carb rebuilding friend and let him > decide what he prefers to do. If he is good on quadra-jets he should be > able to handle > this.
Re: carb kit
--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "cotton" wrote:
the great "600MILES" Ya know there is a faster way than a week in a
carb tank "Carb Cleaner" the real stuff like "Safty Kleen corp" is
water base! after 1~2 hours you drop the carb stright from the tank
into hot water with a dash of what ever cleaner like 409 or orang /
simple green, and you swish it around for about 3 minn the heat expands
the soft metal and sucks in cleaner/water/ blow out with air.
If you have no air that has been pointed out by by a knolagable
member of this site, put on the safty glasses, take a can of spray carb
cleaner, take a razor blade cut the little red/clear tube taped to the
can down to 2" shove it in the nozzel put it in every passage and
squirt. If it comes out the other side your done, you can follow each
passage with your eye there are only like 4 pay close att. to the
pasage between the small idle mixture hole inside the "Head side" of
the carb and the hole where you took out the "Idle mixture screw /
spring / washer / o-ring " you did remove this right!
If you need pointers on re-puttin it togather go
to "MajesticHonda.com" and look at parts fiche. put greese on the new
o-rings, dont mess with float leval unless it over flows, put togather
your done!
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::Zay
part #18-2910 K&L get it at your K&L motorcycle parts supply or> Does anyone sell carb rebuild kits? My little 600 sedan runs in the shop
> pretty good on half choke and third choke after it warms up. Been moving
> Solenoid plunger to no avail. Can't afford to buy a re-built carb.
> cotteni@...
>HEY cotteni!
the great "600MILES" Ya know there is a faster way than a week in a
carb tank "Carb Cleaner" the real stuff like "Safty Kleen corp" is
water base! after 1~2 hours you drop the carb stright from the tank
into hot water with a dash of what ever cleaner like 409 or orang /
simple green, and you swish it around for about 3 minn the heat expands
the soft metal and sucks in cleaner/water/ blow out with air.
If you have no air that has been pointed out by by a knolagable
member of this site, put on the safty glasses, take a can of spray carb
cleaner, take a razor blade cut the little red/clear tube taped to the
can down to 2" shove it in the nozzel put it in every passage and
squirt. If it comes out the other side your done, you can follow each
passage with your eye there are only like 4 pay close att. to the
pasage between the small idle mixture hole inside the "Head side" of
the carb and the hole where you took out the "Idle mixture screw /
spring / washer / o-ring " you did remove this right!
If you need pointers on re-puttin it togather go
to "MajesticHonda.com" and look at parts fiche. put greese on the new
o-rings, dont mess with float leval unless it over flows, put togather
your done!
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::Zay