I have a pristine 1972 N600 which I will store far more than drive. The question is how?
The car is all original, rust-free and unrestored and has just 7,950 original miles on it. The
original factory plastic still covers the door panels and the original tires still have a few
of the "whiskers" on them. It spent about 25 years of its life in a Honda dealer's showroom
in Bethany, Oklahoma, before being sold in 2002. I bought the car two weeks ago. Because
of its condition, I plan on driving very little � perhaps only in local parades � which
would put less than 50 miles annually on the car.
I don't have climate controlled storage, though it will be housed in an insulated space
inside a new uninsulated garage. Do I need to do anything else, like put it up on blocks?
Any other ideas on keeping the car in the best possible shape for future generations?
Eventually, I'll spend money on a 600 I can drive around lots more. Thanks for your help.
How should I store my car?
-
promoter213
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 10:51 pm
Re: How should I store my car?
have you considered "climate controlling" the space around your honda...a
closed in insulated space with heat and air...
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm0 ... direct/01/
closed in insulated space with heat and air...
Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!>From: "John" Reply-To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2cylinderhondas] How should I store my car?
>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 01:15:33 -0000
>I have a pristine 1972 N600 which I will store far more than drive. The
>question is how?
>The car is all original, rust-free and unrestored and has just 7,950
>original miles on it. The
>original factory plastic still covers the door panels and the original
>tires still have a few
>of the "whiskers" on them. It spent about 25 years of its life in a Honda
>dealer's showroom
>in Bethany, Oklahoma, before being sold in 2002. I bought the car two weeks
>ago. Because
>of its condition, I plan on driving very little � perhaps only in local
>parades � which
>would put less than 50 miles annually on the car.
>I don't have climate controlled storage, though it will be housed in an
>insulated space
>inside a new uninsulated garage. Do I need to do anything else, like put it
>up on blocks?
>Any other ideas on keeping the car in the best possible shape for future
>generations?
>Eventually, I'll spend money on a 600 I can drive around lots more. Thanks
>for your help.
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm0 ... direct/01/
Re: How should I store my car?
On Mar 14, 2006, at 2:16 PM, Allen Brown wrote:
inside the garage large enough to accommodate the sedan with about 18
inches to spare all around. That leaves storage space above the car on
the roof of this room and keeps the kids from banging stuff on the car.
I could easily heat and cool that space without much effort. My guess
is I would need only 50 degrees in winter and under 80 in summer. If I
install heat and air, is the space around the car too small for the air
flow generated by the climate systems? Should the room be bigger and
how much? My original question did say no climate control. Bill
Colford followed up with a very helpful article and comment of his own
on other aspects of storing a car. Thanks. John
I have, actually. What I intended to do was to build an insulated room> have you considered "climate controlling" the space around your
> honda...a
> closed in insulated space with heat and air...
inside the garage large enough to accommodate the sedan with about 18
inches to spare all around. That leaves storage space above the car on
the roof of this room and keeps the kids from banging stuff on the car.
I could easily heat and cool that space without much effort. My guess
is I would need only 50 degrees in winter and under 80 in summer. If I
install heat and air, is the space around the car too small for the air
flow generated by the climate systems? Should the room be bigger and
how much? My original question did say no climate control. Bill
Colford followed up with a very helpful article and comment of his own
on other aspects of storing a car. Thanks. John
-
promoter213
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 10:51 pm
Re: How should I store my car?
sounds like you are on top of it already...do you have a link to the bill
colford article you mention in your reply...thanks...
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm ... direct/01/
colford article you mention in your reply...thanks...
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now!>From: John Graf Reply-To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] How should I store my car?
>Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 14:44:53 -0600
>On Mar 14, 2006, at 2:16 PM, Allen Brown wrote:
> > have you considered "climate controlling" the space around your
> > honda...a
> > closed in insulated space with heat and air...
>I have, actually. What I intended to do was to build an insulated room
>inside the garage large enough to accommodate the sedan with about 18
>inches to spare all around. That leaves storage space above the car on
>the roof of this room and keeps the kids from banging stuff on the car.
>I could easily heat and cool that space without much effort. My guess
>is I would need only 50 degrees in winter and under 80 in summer. If I
>install heat and air, is the space around the car too small for the air
>flow generated by the climate systems? Should the room be bigger � and
>how much? My original question did say no climate control. Bill
>Colford followed up with a very helpful article and comment of his own
>on other aspects of storing a car. Thanks. John
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm ... direct/01/
Re: How should I store my car?
Here it is:
This is an article from Hemmings Motor News about a car put in storage
(far north) It might give some hints as what not to do. Additionally I
would suggest you change the brakes over to DOT 5 brake fluid, use WD40
on
all exposed metal parts (WD stands for Water Dispersent) top off all
fluids
depending on the length of storage, I would even go as far as filling
the
engine with oil. But last, write down everything you did, moth balls
(not
the little ones), pull the battery from the car, place a sheet of paper
between the windshield wipers and the windshield, use STP son of a gun
on
the rubber seals, polish everything and clean off the polish (some one a
long time ago said leave it there on the chrome so all you have to do is
wipe it off, wrong!), plug the tail pipe, and once again write
everything
down and leave it on the front seat before closing the car. Then when
you
come back to start it up, undo all that you did, that needs undoing.
Every thing living is looking for a home, your car is a nice place
out
of the weather. The bag idea is great, but look at the ones you can
purchase, some have blowers to keep the air moving. The worst enemy is
time. Your hands left a small deposit of hand soil on that part and if
left there will do what it can to make it's mark. In the article
Richard
had a problem with rust, WD40 will keep that from happening if applied
on
metal surfaces and not wiped off. Fill your tires and place the car on
stands so that the shocks will be in the same position as they would be
if
the car was on the ground. Use rags to cushion the stands to the metal
frame or what ever you place the stands on. If your not going to bag
the
car, place a sheet of plastic between the garage floor and the car and
then
use a good car cover. Cement is made with compounds that will effect
your
metal, and unless you sealed the floor, it breaths moisture into the
under
side of the car.
Bill
Automania: Long-term Effects
By Richard Lentinello
A few months ago I took my 1968 Triumph Spitfire MK III out of
mothballs in
order to get it ready for the 2005 driving season and was shocked to
discover how badly it had deteriorated. During the last two winters it
has
sat inside a large zippered storage bag in my unheated and non-insulated
garage here in Vermont; although I did take it out of the bag when the
weather started getting warm so its paint could breathe. Prior to that
it
sat protected by a cotton car cover under a loose-fitting plastic tarp
in
my backyard for a year, which was the only time it was somewhat exposed
to
the elements since December 1975, the month I began its body-off
restoration.
Since its restoration began, lots of lifes curve balls have been
thrown my
way that have delayed its completion for some 29 years. I began its
restoration while attending college, so I never had any money to buy all
the parts and supplies to finish restoring it in a timely manner. Then a
house move, marriage, move to a city apartment, one kid, two kids,
another
house move, then a major move to Vermont to work here at Hemmings kept
delaying its completion.
All through the Eighties and Nineties it was stored in my parents'
garage
in Oyster Bay, Long Island, then in my brothers garage in nearby
Huntington. During that time, little did I realize that Long Islands
damp
climate was playing havoc on my little British roadster.
When I left my Triumph in my parents' garage, its restoration was about
90%
complete. Everything was done right; the body was removed and stripped
down
to bare metal inside and out, as was the chassis. After lots of careful
preparation, several coats of quality primers and sealers were applied
followed by three coats of DuPonts durable synthetic enamel. Every
suspension component, bracket and bit of hardware that was originally
painted by Standard Triumph was stripped and coated in urethane enamel
for
maximum long-term protection. Besides the new paint, every mechanical
component was either new or rebuilt. All that was really left was the
installation of the interior and a few minor exterior body parts. Then
the
realities of life took over.
Last September, after I finished building my own four-car garage, I took
the cover off my Spitfire and gave it a close inspection to see what I
needed to do to it during the winter months ahead before I can get it
back
on the road next summer. Much to my surprise, everything that I did to
the
car during its restoration has to be done again.
Fortunately, my fastidious bare-metal cleaning, preparation and
refinishing
of the body really paid off. Twenty-five years after it was applied, the
paint is still perfect with not a spec of bubbling, cracking or lifting.
But the state of the mechanical parts is a whole other story.
The new disc brake rotors that I installed back in 1979 are now all
rusted,
and the calipers that I rebuilt are both frozen. So too are the rear
brakes; their rebuilt wheel cylinders have rusted solid, and the once
freshly cut drums are now totally rusted. The master and slave cylinders
are also frozen and the radiator is clogged up. The new wheel bearings
have
to be replaced again as the car no longer rolls easily, and the rubber
boots on the new tie rods have cracked. All the new brake and gas lines
that I made have to be replaced due to interior rust and both SU
carburetors have to be rebuilt as all their gaskets have dried out.
I disassembled the engine that I rebuilt to take a look-see inside and
all
appears well; no doubt thanks to the synthetic oil that kept everything
well coated.
If youre in the process of restoring an old car dont make it sit
unused
for the length of time that I made my Triumph sit. Inactivity is far
worst
than excessive use. Now, instead of waiting to drive my Spitfire until
its
restoration is 100% completed, I will begin to drive it just as soon as
all
the mechanical systems are rebuilt, which is what I should have done all
those years ago. If you can, enjoy your car as its restoration
progresses
instead of waiting until its perfect. Or you may have to rebuild it all
over again.
This is an article from Hemmings Motor News about a car put in storage
(far north) It might give some hints as what not to do. Additionally I
would suggest you change the brakes over to DOT 5 brake fluid, use WD40
on
all exposed metal parts (WD stands for Water Dispersent) top off all
fluids
depending on the length of storage, I would even go as far as filling
the
engine with oil. But last, write down everything you did, moth balls
(not
the little ones), pull the battery from the car, place a sheet of paper
between the windshield wipers and the windshield, use STP son of a gun
on
the rubber seals, polish everything and clean off the polish (some one a
long time ago said leave it there on the chrome so all you have to do is
wipe it off, wrong!), plug the tail pipe, and once again write
everything
down and leave it on the front seat before closing the car. Then when
you
come back to start it up, undo all that you did, that needs undoing.
Every thing living is looking for a home, your car is a nice place
out
of the weather. The bag idea is great, but look at the ones you can
purchase, some have blowers to keep the air moving. The worst enemy is
time. Your hands left a small deposit of hand soil on that part and if
left there will do what it can to make it's mark. In the article
Richard
had a problem with rust, WD40 will keep that from happening if applied
on
metal surfaces and not wiped off. Fill your tires and place the car on
stands so that the shocks will be in the same position as they would be
if
the car was on the ground. Use rags to cushion the stands to the metal
frame or what ever you place the stands on. If your not going to bag
the
car, place a sheet of plastic between the garage floor and the car and
then
use a good car cover. Cement is made with compounds that will effect
your
metal, and unless you sealed the floor, it breaths moisture into the
under
side of the car.
Bill
Automania: Long-term Effects
By Richard Lentinello
A few months ago I took my 1968 Triumph Spitfire MK III out of
mothballs in
order to get it ready for the 2005 driving season and was shocked to
discover how badly it had deteriorated. During the last two winters it
has
sat inside a large zippered storage bag in my unheated and non-insulated
garage here in Vermont; although I did take it out of the bag when the
weather started getting warm so its paint could breathe. Prior to that
it
sat protected by a cotton car cover under a loose-fitting plastic tarp
in
my backyard for a year, which was the only time it was somewhat exposed
to
the elements since December 1975, the month I began its body-off
restoration.
Since its restoration began, lots of lifes curve balls have been
thrown my
way that have delayed its completion for some 29 years. I began its
restoration while attending college, so I never had any money to buy all
the parts and supplies to finish restoring it in a timely manner. Then a
house move, marriage, move to a city apartment, one kid, two kids,
another
house move, then a major move to Vermont to work here at Hemmings kept
delaying its completion.
All through the Eighties and Nineties it was stored in my parents'
garage
in Oyster Bay, Long Island, then in my brothers garage in nearby
Huntington. During that time, little did I realize that Long Islands
damp
climate was playing havoc on my little British roadster.
When I left my Triumph in my parents' garage, its restoration was about
90%
complete. Everything was done right; the body was removed and stripped
down
to bare metal inside and out, as was the chassis. After lots of careful
preparation, several coats of quality primers and sealers were applied
followed by three coats of DuPonts durable synthetic enamel. Every
suspension component, bracket and bit of hardware that was originally
painted by Standard Triumph was stripped and coated in urethane enamel
for
maximum long-term protection. Besides the new paint, every mechanical
component was either new or rebuilt. All that was really left was the
installation of the interior and a few minor exterior body parts. Then
the
realities of life took over.
Last September, after I finished building my own four-car garage, I took
the cover off my Spitfire and gave it a close inspection to see what I
needed to do to it during the winter months ahead before I can get it
back
on the road next summer. Much to my surprise, everything that I did to
the
car during its restoration has to be done again.
Fortunately, my fastidious bare-metal cleaning, preparation and
refinishing
of the body really paid off. Twenty-five years after it was applied, the
paint is still perfect with not a spec of bubbling, cracking or lifting.
But the state of the mechanical parts is a whole other story.
The new disc brake rotors that I installed back in 1979 are now all
rusted,
and the calipers that I rebuilt are both frozen. So too are the rear
brakes; their rebuilt wheel cylinders have rusted solid, and the once
freshly cut drums are now totally rusted. The master and slave cylinders
are also frozen and the radiator is clogged up. The new wheel bearings
have
to be replaced again as the car no longer rolls easily, and the rubber
boots on the new tie rods have cracked. All the new brake and gas lines
that I made have to be replaced due to interior rust and both SU
carburetors have to be rebuilt as all their gaskets have dried out.
I disassembled the engine that I rebuilt to take a look-see inside and
all
appears well; no doubt thanks to the synthetic oil that kept everything
well coated.
If youre in the process of restoring an old car dont make it sit
unused
for the length of time that I made my Triumph sit. Inactivity is far
worst
than excessive use. Now, instead of waiting to drive my Spitfire until
its
restoration is 100% completed, I will begin to drive it just as soon as
all
the mechanical systems are rebuilt, which is what I should have done all
those years ago. If you can, enjoy your car as its restoration
progresses
instead of waiting until its perfect. Or you may have to rebuild it all
over again.
On Mar 15, 2006, at 7:46 AM, Allen Brown wrote:
> sounds like you are on top of it already...do you have a link to the
> bill
> colford article you mention in your reply...thanks...
>> From: John Graf > Reply-To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] How should I store my car?
>> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 14:44:53 -0600
>> On Mar 14, 2006, at 2:16 PM, Allen Brown wrote:
>>> have you considered "climate controlling" the space around your
>>> honda...a
>>> closed in insulated space with heat and air...
>> I have, actually. What I intended to do was to build an insulated room
>> inside the garage large enough to accommodate the sedan with about 18
>> inches to spare all around. That leaves storage space above the car on
>> the roof of this room and keeps the kids from banging stuff on the
>> car.
>> I could easily heat and cool that space without much effort. My guess
>> is I would need only 50 degrees in winter and under 80 in summer. If I
>> install heat and air, is the space around the car too small for the
>> air
>> flow generated by the climate systems? Should the room be bigger � and
>> how much? My original question did say no climate control. Bill
>> Colford followed up with a very helpful article and comment of his own
>> on other aspects of storing a car. Thanks. John
Re: How should I store my car?
Greetings,
I saw the various comments regarding how to store your Honda 600. Here are my comments;
1) Don't expect all your parts to survive long term storage. Your chances are worse if the part is used (i.e. a brand new engine is easy to store, a used one is more difficult).
2) Store the vehicle in a dry place. Cover it with a car cover which breathes. Climate-controlled is great if you want to spend the money. Moisture is one of your problems. Try to avoid direct sunlight. The UV degrades the plastic and rubber. Store in an area which is free of rodents and insects (the insects are hard to eliminate but do eliminate rodent problems).
3) Forget about putting oil in the engine. You are not using the vehicle....what is the point of the oil unless you plan on keeping it circulating within the engine. Any moisture in the air will be trapped under the oil (water is heavier than oil). If the car which you want to store has gross looking oil, replace it with clean oil, run the engine, then drain it.
4). Get rid of the battery. Get rid of the gasoline. Pump gas contains alcohol and alcohol absorbs moisture which leads to corroision. A dry fuel system is better than one filled with auto gasoline. If you must fill up your car with gas, go down to the local airport and purchase 100 LL (the LL mean low lead) aviation gasoline. Fill your car with this and let it run so it can displace the old gas in the system. 100 LL has an excellent storage life (as an auto gas).
5. Take the carb off, remove the float bowl and clean it out. Any fuel in the carb will dry out and leave a residue. Loosen or remove the fan belt, remove the spark plugs. Plug up the spark plug holes and intake. If the engine is used, you might want to spray some fogging oil in each cylinder (you can purchase it at a marine/boat supply store...... boat owners go through a ritual every year to store boats for the winter which includes items useful for car owners).
6. Take the wheels/tires off your car. Store them on their side or any other way which prevents flat spotting them. And let out the air and keep the tires away from direct sun/UV to extend the life of the tires.
7. With the wheels off the car, you will need support the car. I don't see any difference what the position of the shocks are on these cars. The shocks use an oil damper system and the lack of use may cause the seals to fail. The front suspension is a huge coil spring. If the spring is going to form any type of memory, I would prefer it has it in the elongated state rather than the compressed state. The shock inside of the coil is an oil damper system similar to the rear shocks except it is inside the strut.
That is enough for tonight.
Dale
I saw the various comments regarding how to store your Honda 600. Here are my comments;
1) Don't expect all your parts to survive long term storage. Your chances are worse if the part is used (i.e. a brand new engine is easy to store, a used one is more difficult).
2) Store the vehicle in a dry place. Cover it with a car cover which breathes. Climate-controlled is great if you want to spend the money. Moisture is one of your problems. Try to avoid direct sunlight. The UV degrades the plastic and rubber. Store in an area which is free of rodents and insects (the insects are hard to eliminate but do eliminate rodent problems).
3) Forget about putting oil in the engine. You are not using the vehicle....what is the point of the oil unless you plan on keeping it circulating within the engine. Any moisture in the air will be trapped under the oil (water is heavier than oil). If the car which you want to store has gross looking oil, replace it with clean oil, run the engine, then drain it.
4). Get rid of the battery. Get rid of the gasoline. Pump gas contains alcohol and alcohol absorbs moisture which leads to corroision. A dry fuel system is better than one filled with auto gasoline. If you must fill up your car with gas, go down to the local airport and purchase 100 LL (the LL mean low lead) aviation gasoline. Fill your car with this and let it run so it can displace the old gas in the system. 100 LL has an excellent storage life (as an auto gas).
5. Take the carb off, remove the float bowl and clean it out. Any fuel in the carb will dry out and leave a residue. Loosen or remove the fan belt, remove the spark plugs. Plug up the spark plug holes and intake. If the engine is used, you might want to spray some fogging oil in each cylinder (you can purchase it at a marine/boat supply store...... boat owners go through a ritual every year to store boats for the winter which includes items useful for car owners).
6. Take the wheels/tires off your car. Store them on their side or any other way which prevents flat spotting them. And let out the air and keep the tires away from direct sun/UV to extend the life of the tires.
7. With the wheels off the car, you will need support the car. I don't see any difference what the position of the shocks are on these cars. The shocks use an oil damper system and the lack of use may cause the seals to fail. The front suspension is a huge coil spring. If the spring is going to form any type of memory, I would prefer it has it in the elongated state rather than the compressed state. The shock inside of the coil is an oil damper system similar to the rear shocks except it is inside the strut.
That is enough for tonight.
Dale
Re: How should I store my car?
Wow I'm tired just thinking about the effort. Thanks for writing it
down. I certainly appreciate it.
John
down. I certainly appreciate it.
John
On Apr 4, 2006, at 4:10 AM,
goinhm@...
wrote:
> Greetings,
> �
> �� I saw the various comments regarding how to store your Honda 600.�
> Here are my comments;
> �
> 1)�� Don't expect�all your parts to�survive long term storage.� Your
> chances are worse if the�part is used (i.e.� a brand new engine is
> easy to store,� a used one is more difficult).
> �
> 2)� Store the vehicle in a dry place.� Cover it with a�car cover which
> breathes.� Climate-controlled is great if you want to spend the
> money.� Moisture is one of your problems.� Try to avoid direct
> sunlight.� The UV degrades the plastic and rubber.� Store in an area
> which is free of rodents and insects (the insects are hard to
> eliminate but do eliminate rodent problems).
> �
> 3)� Forget about�putting oil in the engine.��You are not using the
> vehicle....what is the point of the oil unless you plan on keeping it
> circulating�within the engine.� Any moisture in the air will be
> trapped under the oil�(water is heavier than oil).��If the car�which
> you want to store has gross looking oil,� replace it with clean oil,
> run the engine, then drain it.
> �
> 4).� Get rid of the battery.� Get rid of the gasoline.� Pump gas
> contains alcohol and alcohol absorbs moisture which leads to
> corroision.� A dry fuel system is better than one filled with auto
> gasoline.��If you must fill up your car with gas,� go down to the
> local�airport and purchase 100 LL� (the LL mean low lead) aviation
> gasoline.� Fill your�car with this and let it run so it can displace
> the old gas in the system.� 100 LL has an excellent storage life (as
> an auto gas).�
> �
> 5.� Take the carb off,� remove the float bowl and clean it out.� Any
> fuel in the carb will dry out and leave a residue.�� Loosen or remove
> the fan belt,� remove the spark plugs.� Plug up the spark plug holes
> and intake.� If the engine is used,� you might want to spray some
> fogging oil in each cylinder (you can purchase it at a marine/boat
> supply store...... boat owners go through a ritual every year to store
> boats for the winter which includes items useful for car owners).�
> �
> 6.� Take the wheels/tires off your car.� Store them on their side or
> any other way which prevents flat spotting them.� And let out the air
> and keep the tires away from direct sun/UV to extend the life of the
> tires.�
> �
> 7.� With the wheels off the car,� you will need support the car.� I
> don't see any difference what the position of the shocks are on these
> cars.� The shocks use an oil damper system and the lack of use may
> cause the seals to fail.� The front suspension is a huge coil spring.�
> If the spring is going to form any type of memory,� I would prefer it
> has it in the elongated state rather than the compressed state.� The
> shock inside of the coil is an oil damper system similar to the rear
> shocks except it is inside the strut.
> �
> That is enough for tonight.
> �
> Dale
> �
Re: How should I store my car?
seems like it would be easier just to drive it and get some joy out of it..lol
John Graf wrote:
John Graf wrote:
> Wow —I'm tired just thinking about the effort. Thanks for writing it > down. I certainly appreciate it.
> John
> On Apr 4, 2006, at 4:10 AM, goinhm@... wrote:
> > Greetings,
> > �
> > � � I saw the various comments regarding how to store your Honda 600.� > > Here are my comments; > > � > > 1)� � Don't expect� all your parts to� survive long term storage.� Your > > chances are worse if the� part is used (i.e.� a brand new engine is > > easy to store,� a used one is more difficult).
> > �
> > 2)� Store the vehicle in a dry place.� Cover it with a� car cover which
> > breathes.� Climate-controlled is great if you want to spend the > > money.� Moisture is one of your problems.� Try to avoid direct > > sunlight.� The UV degrades the plastic and rubber.� Store in an area > > which is free of rodents and insects (the insects are hard to > > eliminate but do eliminate rodent problems).
> > �
> > 3)� Forget about� putting oil in the engine.� � You are not using the > > vehicle....what is the point of the oil unless you plan on keeping it > > circulating� within the engine.� Any moisture in the air will be > > trapped under the oil� (water is heavier than oil).� � If the car� which > > you want to store has gross looking oil,� replace it with clean oil, > > run the engine, then drain it.
> > �
> > 4).� Get rid of the battery.� Get rid of the gasoline.� Pump > gas > > contains alcohol and alcohol absorbs moisture which leads to > > corroision.� A dry fuel system is better than one filled with auto > > gasoline.� � If you must fill up your car with gas,� go down to the > > local� airport and purchase 100 LL� (the LL mean low lead) aviation > > gasoline.� Fill your� car with this and let it run so it can displace > > the old gas in the system.� 100 LL has an excellent storage life (as > > an auto gas).� > > � > > 5.� Take the carb off,� remove the float bowl and clean it out.� Any > > fuel in the carb will dry out and leave a residue.� � Loosen or remove > > the fan belt,� remove the spark plugs.� Plug up the spark plug holes > > and intake.� If the engine is used,� you might want to spray some > > fogging oil in each cylinder (you can purchase it at a > marine/boat > > supply store...... boat owners go through a ritual every year to store > > boats for the winter which includes items useful for car owners).� > > � > > 6.� Take the wheels/tires off your car.� Store them on their side or > > any other way which prevents flat spotting them.� And let out the air > > and keep the tires away from direct sun/UV to extend the life of the > > tires.� > > � > > 7.� With the wheels off the car,� you will need support the car.� I > > don't see any difference what the position of the shocks are on these > > cars.� The shocks use an oil damper system and the lack of use may > > cause the seals to fail.� The front suspension is a huge coil spring.� > > If the spring is going to form any type of memory,� I would prefer it > > has it in the elongated state rather than the compressed > state.� The > > shock inside of the coil is an oil damper system similar to the rear > > shocks except it is inside the strut.
> > �
> > That is enough for tonight.
> > �
> > Dale
> > �
Re: How should I store my car?
My kids think I've popped a gasket because I have this car too small
by their standards and I think it is too good to drive.
So what do you all think do I have a museum piece worth preserving or
should I drive it and enjoy it?
It's a 72 N600, all original, including the factory plastic covering
the doors and original tires with some of the "whiskers" still on them,
and just under 8,000 original miles on the odometer. There is no rust
anywhere and everything works OK, it does need a muffler and an oil
change. (It spent about 25 years of its life in a dealer's showroom.)
Drive lots or preserve the thing? Tell me what you think.
John
by their standards and I think it is too good to drive.
So what do you all think do I have a museum piece worth preserving or
should I drive it and enjoy it?
It's a 72 N600, all original, including the factory plastic covering
the doors and original tires with some of the "whiskers" still on them,
and just under 8,000 original miles on the odometer. There is no rust
anywhere and everything works OK, it does need a muffler and an oil
change. (It spent about 25 years of its life in a dealer's showroom.)
Drive lots or preserve the thing? Tell me what you think.
John
On Apr 4, 2006, at 2:35 PM, Eddie Hill wrote:
> seems like it would be easier just to drive it and get some joy out of
> it..lol
Re: How should I store my car?
I say drive it and enjoy it.. no fun just sitting in a room collecting dust.
John Graf wrote:
John Graf wrote:
Note: 1 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (ec).> My kids think I've popped a gasket because I have this car � too small > by their standards � and I think it is too good to drive.
> So what do you all think � do I have a museum piece worth preserving or > should I drive it and enjoy it?
> It's a 72 N600, all original, including the factory plastic covering > the doors and original tires with some of the "whiskers" still on them, > and just under 8,000 original miles on the odometer. There is no rust > anywhere and everything works � OK, it does need a muffler and an oil > change. (It spent about 25 years of its life in a dealer's showroom.) > Drive lots or preserve the thing? Tell me what > you think.
> John
> On Apr 4, 2006, at 2:35 PM, Eddie Hill wrote:
> > seems like it would be easier just to drive it and get some joy out of > > it..lol
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