Hi everyone.
I have finished cleaning and inspecting all the parts inside my
Coupe's crankcase, and now I'm about ready to reassemble
them and seal up the case. The transmission is all apart. Before
I do this, does anyone have any important tips, advice, or
warnings? I've never done this before, and I don't want to mess it
up!
I'm following the American Shop Manual and Hayes manual.
Also, is there a specific gasket cement I should use?
Any tips would be very helpful! Thanks!
-Jeff
Help! Reassembling crankcase...
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Help! Reassembling crankcase...
Hi Jeff, what is the engine number? Constant or full synchro? Did you remove
the shift plate and all the shafts? All of this will matter for the
reassembly.
Bill
the shift plate and all the shafts? All of this will matter for the
reassembly.
Bill
Re: Help! Reassembling crankcase...
Bill, the engine number is N600E-2502274. All the shift-shafts
are removed and the shift-plate assembly. The shift-plates are
still one unit (I couldn't get the screws out and didn't want to
break it).
are removed and the shift-plate assembly. The shift-plates are
still one unit (I couldn't get the screws out and didn't want to
break it).
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Help! Reassembling crankcase...
Hi Jeff;
OK, you are working on a AZ600 engine, and it originally came with a full
synchro trans. On the transmission synchros, check the blocking ring spring
to make sure they are still good (easy to say isn't it?) what you are
looking for here are flat spots, and thin areas. They should allow the
gears to mesh easily and ride on the top of the blocking rings. But your
Coupe repair manual says this on page 86. What happens if you leave worn or
bent blocking ring springs in your transmission? Well, they break, fall into
the gears, get chewed up and work their way into the crank shaft bearings
and cause the crankshaft to go.
The Shift plate is ok to be left as is, but removing it helps to get all
the crud out. Varnish is the real culprit on the shift plate. Clean it
well with lacquer thinner, use compressed air and then check all the
check-balls to make sure the springs are still good.
Next is to read your manuals, note that the keeper rings on the
differential are placed so the separation is at the top of the engine case
or it will leak. I use Silver Permetex RTV (a thin application) to seal the
case, and note where the case comes together. The areas where the bolts
thread into the top case will also need a touch of Sealer. Or, these too
can leak. Replace all the metal seals (washers) on the case bolts that had
them to begin with. Also, there are metal seals for the backup light
switch, shift shaft check ball cap and the reverse lever check ball cap.
When you remove the two check ball caps mentioned above, one has a longer
spring than the other and one of the cap bolts is shorter than the other.
(page 89) These are significant because if the long one is used on the
reverse lever it will keep it from moving at all. I think you can see how
taking it apart and watching what part goes where makes a difference.
But, let me know if this is what you are looking for or do you already know
these things?
Bill
OK, you are working on a AZ600 engine, and it originally came with a full
synchro trans. On the transmission synchros, check the blocking ring spring
to make sure they are still good (easy to say isn't it?) what you are
looking for here are flat spots, and thin areas. They should allow the
gears to mesh easily and ride on the top of the blocking rings. But your
Coupe repair manual says this on page 86. What happens if you leave worn or
bent blocking ring springs in your transmission? Well, they break, fall into
the gears, get chewed up and work their way into the crank shaft bearings
and cause the crankshaft to go.
The Shift plate is ok to be left as is, but removing it helps to get all
the crud out. Varnish is the real culprit on the shift plate. Clean it
well with lacquer thinner, use compressed air and then check all the
check-balls to make sure the springs are still good.
Next is to read your manuals, note that the keeper rings on the
differential are placed so the separation is at the top of the engine case
or it will leak. I use Silver Permetex RTV (a thin application) to seal the
case, and note where the case comes together. The areas where the bolts
thread into the top case will also need a touch of Sealer. Or, these too
can leak. Replace all the metal seals (washers) on the case bolts that had
them to begin with. Also, there are metal seals for the backup light
switch, shift shaft check ball cap and the reverse lever check ball cap.
When you remove the two check ball caps mentioned above, one has a longer
spring than the other and one of the cap bolts is shorter than the other.
(page 89) These are significant because if the long one is used on the
reverse lever it will keep it from moving at all. I think you can see how
taking it apart and watching what part goes where makes a difference.
But, let me know if this is what you are looking for or do you already know
these things?
Bill
Re: Help! Reassembling crankcase...
Don't forget the 4 ball bearings and the interlock pin on the reverse
shifter shaft - all found within the dipstick cover under a small
plate held on with 2 6x10 bolts. L on differential faces to the right
when your cases are upside down but faces to the left as if the
engine was in the car. Put it in backwards and you will trash the
engine cases.
Miles
shifter shaft - all found within the dipstick cover under a small
plate held on with 2 6x10 bolts. L on differential faces to the right
when your cases are upside down but faces to the left as if the
engine was in the car. Put it in backwards and you will trash the
engine cases.
Miles