carburetor idle fuel mixture

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 12:50 pm

Hi guys,
I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
So, how do you guys do it?
This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
thanks
Mike.

Eric Geiger · Post by **Eric Geiger** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 1:08 pm

I asked this same question a few weeks ago to another member directly and was told most the time that they have the idle air mixture screw turned all the way out almost to the point where it's pretty loose. I had mine set about 3.5 turns out from closed for a few months and it was fine usually. Since being told that they normally had it out further I've done the same with not much change in idle or drivability. I was lucky though as I had the little river stopper for the screw that keeps it from backing out and falling out when set loose.
My car idles fine almost always though. Do u have a vacuum leak possibly leading to a rough idle?
I know this doesn't help much but maybe it'll help a little
Eric J. Geiger
---------------------------------------
PRG Nocturne
XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
egeiger@...
www.prgnocturne.com

On Jul 25, 2013, at 3:51 PM, "Mike" wrote:
Hi guys,
I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
So, how do you guys do it?
This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
thanks
Mike.

Lyle · Post by **Lyle** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:44 pm

Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and just off idle enrichment. If these holes are plugged or restricted it won't idle. If you are lucky carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner will open these tiny .015" holes. Sometimes it takes a little help from a pin gage or drill. Not an easy thing to do! Carb manufactures made these holes to meet most needs, of course if you live at sea level Florida like me or mile high city the hole size will matter. I had one carb that I could not get the idle passage open, got another carb. Run a fuel filter, blow carb cleaner though the air and fuel passages, a pin gage if needed and your car will idle like new.
Problem solved.
Hopefully
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> Hi guys,
> I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
> So, how do you guys do it?
> This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
> I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
> thanks
> Mike.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:57 pm

Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and just off idle enrichment. If these holes are plugged or restricted it won't idle. If you are lucky carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner will open these tiny .015" holes. Sometimes it takes a little help from a pin gage or drill. Not an easy thing to do! Carb manufactures made these holes to meet most needs, of course if you live at sea level Florida like me or mile high city the hole size will matter. I had one carb that I could not get the idle passage open, got another carb. Run a fuel filter, blow carb cleaner though the air and fuel passages, a pin gage if needed and your car will idle like new.
> Problem solved.
> Hopefully
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> > I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
> > So, how do you guys do it?
> > This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
> > I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
> > thanks
> > Mike.

Lyle · Post by **Lyle** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 9:38 pm

Mike, like most of us older guys we have experience with carbs, I have raced many things so the jet size is important. Nothing magical just holes the correct size and an air flow over them. Match them to weather and altitude conditions and you can be first on race day. Your young, but 20 years from now you could be the next carb guru.
The float bowl is a chamber filled with fuel, the main jet and idle jets all lead to this chamber. If you have a butterfly valve or a slide valve with a needle they all do the same thing.
An engine is an air pump the higher the rpm the more air/fuel needed. If you have low compression then you have low air flow and carb adjustments will be wrong.
Balance is the key, get it right and you get good idle, mileage and power.
Blow carb cleaner through all the holes and see were they go, if they go to the float bowl that's a fuel passage. If it goes to the venturi that's air.
If something is blocked you have found your problem.
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> > Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and just off idle enrichment. If these holes are plugged or restricted it won't idle. If you are lucky carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner will open these tiny .015" holes. Sometimes it takes a little help from a pin gage or drill. Not an easy thing to do! Carb manufactures made these holes to meet most needs, of course if you live at sea level Florida like me or mile high city the hole size will matter. I had one carb that I could not get the idle passage open, got another carb. Run a fuel filter, blow carb cleaner though the air and fuel passages, a pin gage if needed and your car will idle like new.
> > Problem solved.
> > Hopefully
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> > > Hi guys,
> > > I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
> > > So, how do you guys do it?
> > > This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
> > > I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
> > > thanks
> > > Mike.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:39 am

I found out what the problem was. I feel kind of dumb. Actually I feel like a bit of an idiot.
I took the carb off and was looking inside it when I thought to myself, "geez, the butterfly valve for the throttle sure closes off quite a bit." Then it hit me like a load of bricks. I had not thought that I might actually need to adjust the throttle idle adjustment screw when I put the carb on.
The throttle idle screw had been backed out, and so the butterfly valve was closed all the way when you have your foot off the pedal, and on our carbs, pulling the choke closed also slightly opens the throttle valve; therefore making mine idle.
So I put the carb back on, started it, and turned in the throttle idle screw and to my joy and also my shame at the same time, it began to idle quite nicely.
I have not driven it much since I have other things that need to be put back together as well, but I hope to be driving it around soon.
Thanks a lot for all your help guys. I can't believe I forgot about that. It simply had not crossed my mind.
You're right Lyle, maybe some day I'll be pointing out the obvious mistakes to some one much younger than me.
Mike.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> Mike, like most of us older guys we have experience with carbs, I have raced many things so the jet size is important. Nothing magical just holes the correct size and an air flow over them. Match them to weather and altitude conditions and you can be first on race day. Your young, but 20 years from now you could be the next carb guru.
> The float bowl is a chamber filled with fuel, the main jet and idle jets all lead to this chamber. If you have a butterfly valve or a slide valve with a needle they all do the same thing.
> An engine is an air pump the higher the rpm the more air/fuel needed. If you have low compression then you have low air flow and carb adjustments will be wrong.
> Balance is the key, get it right and you get good idle, mileage and power.
> Blow carb cleaner through all the holes and see were they go, if they go to the float bowl that's a fuel passage. If it goes to the venturi that's air.
> If something is blocked you have found your problem.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> > Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> > > Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and just off idle enrichment. If these holes are plugged or restricted it won't idle. If you are lucky carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner will open these tiny .015" holes. Sometimes it takes a little help from a pin gage or drill. Not an easy thing to do! Carb manufactures made these holes to meet most needs, of course if you live at sea level Florida like me or mile high city the hole size will matter. I had one carb that I could not get the idle passage open, got another carb. Run a fuel filter, blow carb cleaner though the air and fuel passages, a pin gage if needed and your car will idle like new.
> > > Problem solved.
> > > Hopefully
> > > Lyle
> > > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> > > > Hi guys,
> > > > I was looking in the files on our site for info on this, but I didn't find anything. I'm trying to set the idle fuel mixture on my Honda coupe. Just got a carb rebuilt. My manual says to use a Carbon Monoxide meter, but I'd rather not spend $130 for a one-time tool.
> > > > So, how do you guys do it?
> > > > This is going to be a slight challenge since it will not idle at all with out a little pull on the choke.
> > > > I saw in some older messages that others have had a similar situation where their engine would not idle without a slight pull on the old choke valve. Did you guys get that fixed? Lyle, you were one of the ones who mentioned having this problem. What did you do?
> > > > thanks
> > > > Mike.

tdthies1 · Post by **tdthies1** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 10:23 am

Lol..sometimes it can be the simplest of things that get you. Happens to all of us at some point.. Glad you got it up and running.
Sent from Samsung tablet
Mike wrote:
I found out what the problem was. I feel kind of dumb. Actually I feel like a bit of an idiot.
I took the carb off and was looking inside it when I thought to myself, "geez, the butterfly valve for the throttle sure closes off quite a bit." Then it hit me like a load of bricks. I had not thought that I might actually need to adjust the throttle idle adjustment screw when I put the carb on.
The throttle idle screw had been backed out, and so the butterfly valve was closed all the way when you have your foot off the pedal, and on our carbs, pulling the choke closed also slightly opens the throttle valve; therefore making mine idle.
So I put the carb back on, started it, and turned in the throttle idle screw and to my joy and also my shame at the same time, it began to idle quite nicely.
I have not driven it much since I have other things that need to be put back together as well, but I hope to be driving it around soon.
Thanks a lot for all your help guys. I can't believe I forgot about that. It simply had not crossed my mind.
You're right Lyle, maybe some day I'll be pointing out the obvious mistakes to some one much younger than me.
Mike.

--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Lyle" wrote:
> Mike, like most of us older guys we have experience with carbs, I have raced many things so the jet size is important. Nothing magical just holes the correct size and an air flow over them. Match them to weather and altitude conditions and you can be first on race day. Your young, but 20 years from now you could be the next carb guru.
> The float bowl is a chamber filled with fuel, the main jet and idle jets all lead to this chamber. If you have a butterfly valve or a slide valve with a needle they all do the same thing.
> An engine is an air pump the higher the rpm the more air/fuel needed. If you have low compression then you have low air flow and carb adjustments will be wrong.
> Balance is the key, get it right and you get good idle, mileage and power.
> Blow carb cleaner through all the holes and see were they go, if they go to the float bowl that's a fuel passage. If it goes to the venturi that's air.
> If something is blocked you have found your problem.
> Lyle
> --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote:
> > Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.
> > --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Lyle" wrote:
> > > Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and j

JN · Post by JN » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:49 pm

where can I get the fake chrome strips that go in the front and rear window rubber for a good price?
From:
tdthies1
To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Sunday, July 28, 2013 10:25 AM
Subject:
RE: [anzhonda600owners] Re: carburetor idle fuel mixture
Lol..sometimes it can be the simplest of things that get you. Happens to all of us at some point.. Glad you got it up and running.
Sent from Samsung tablet
Mike wrote:
I found out what the problem was. I feel kind of dumb. Actually I feel like a bit of an idiot.
I took the carb off and was looking inside it when I thought to myself, "geez, the butterfly valve for the throttle sure closes off quite a bit." Then it hit me like a load of bricks. I had not thought that I might actually need to adjust the throttle idle adjustment screw when I put the carb on.
The throttle idle screw had been backed out, and so the butterfly valve was closed all the way when you have your foot off the pedal, and on our carbs, pulling the choke closed also slightly opens the throttle valve; therefore making mine idle.
So I put the carb back on, started it, and turned in the throttle idle screw and to my joy and also my shame at the same time, it began to idle quite nicely.
I have not driven it much since I have other things that need to be put back together as well, but I hope to be driving it around soon.
Thanks a lot for all your help guys. I can't believe I forgot about that. It simply had not crossed my mind.
You're right Lyle, maybe some day I'll be pointing out the obvious mistakes to some one much younger than me.
Mike.

--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Lyle" wrote:
> Mike, like most of us older guys we have experience with carbs, I have raced many things so the jet size is important. Nothing magical just holes the correct size and an air flow over them. Match them to weather and altitude conditions and you can be first on race day. Your young, but 20 years from now you could be the next carb guru.
> The float bowl is a chamber filled with fuel, the main jet and idle jets all lead to this chamber. If you have a butterfly valve or a slide valve with a needle they all do the same thing.
> An engine is an air pump the higher the rpm the more air/fuel needed. If you have low compression then you have low air flow and carb adjustments will be wrong.
> Balance is the key, get it right and you get good idle, mileage and power.
> Blow carb cleaner through all the holes and see were they go, if they go to the float bowl that's a fuel passage. If it goes to the venturi that's air.
> If something is blocked you have found your problem.
> Lyle
> --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote:
> > Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.
> > --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "Lyle" wrote:
> > > Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and j

Kurt · Post by **Kurt** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:17 pm

Since we are on chrome window do-hickies does anyone have a solution for the chrome strips on the top of the doors at the base of the windows on a coupe. Also the rubber that seals/scrapes the window as it goes up and down for a coupe and sedan
Sorry for all the technical terms:-)
Thanks Kurt

On Jul 28, 2013, at 7:49 PM, JN wrote:
where can I get the fake chrome strips that go in the front and rear window rubber for a good price?
From:
tdthies1 wrote:
I found out what the problem was. I feel kind of dumb. Actually I feel like a bit of an idiot.
I took the carb off and was looking inside it when I thought to myself, "geez, the butterfly valve for the throttle sure closes off quite a bit." Then it hit me like a load of bricks. I had not thought that I might actually need to adjust the throttle idle adjustment screw when I put the carb on.
The throttle idle screw had been backed out, and so the butterfly valve was closed all the way when you have your foot off the pedal, and on our carbs, pulling the choke closed also slightly opens the throttle valve; therefore making mine idle.
So I put the carb back on, started it, and turned in the throttle idle screw and to my joy and also my shame at the same time, it began to idle quite nicely.
I have not driven it much since I have other things that need to be put back together as well, but I hope to be driving it around soon.
Thanks a lot for all your help guys. I can't believe I forgot about that. It simply had not crossed my mind.
You're right Lyle, maybe some day I'll be pointing out the obvious mistakes to some one much younger than me.
Mike.
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> Mike, like most of us older guys we have experience with carbs, I have raced many things so the jet size is important. Nothing magical just holes the correct size and an air flow over them. Match them to weather and altitude conditions and you can be first on race day. Your young, but 20 years from now you could be the next carb guru.
> The float bowl is a chamber filled with fuel, the main jet and idle jets all lead to this chamber. If you have a butterfly valve or a slide valve with a needle they all do the same thing.
> An engine is an air pump the higher the rpm the more air/fuel needed. If you have low compression then you have low air flow and carb adjustments will be wrong.
> Balance is the key, get it right and you get good idle, mileage and power.
> Blow carb cleaner through all the holes and see were they go, if they go to the float bowl that's a fuel passage. If it goes to the venturi that's air.
> If something is blocked you have found your problem.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mike" wrote:
> > Lyle, thanks for the detailed descriptions of where to fin the idle inlets. I'll definitely try that in the morning. thanks.
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Lyle" wrote:
> > > Hi Mike, carbs are really simple things. Air flowing through a restricted area creates a high vacuum and sucks fuel up. Your carb like mine has a gummed-up idle fuel circuit. Like all carbs just past the butterfly is one or multiple holes to pull fuel at idle and j

tdthies1 · Post by **tdthies1** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 9:48 pm

If u are talking about the chrome that goes on the gutter. I Used chrome door guard that comes in a role
Sent from Samsung tablet
Kurt wrote:
Since we are on chrome window do-hickies does anyone have a solution for the chrome strips on the top of the doors at the base of the windows on a coupe. Also the rubber that seals/scrapes the window as it goes up and down for a coupe and sedan
Sorry for