Look at the risk, you could have damaged the inner wall to the break line and caused a failure while trying to stop at speed. Most common result is both front breaks start to grip and when one fails the other holds for a split second causing the vehicle to jerk in that direction, into oncomming traffic or worse flipping the vehicle when you try and correct.
Remove the line, soak it in water and blow it out with caned air if you have to but the alternative is out of the question. We have to be safe, and do some risk management. You may luck out this time but youre putting this out to a whole bunch of folks.
Sorry Miles, I can't agree.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Miles > Sent:
> Tuesday, April 22, 2008 12:17
> AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> I don't care if you differ. Most people don't have compressed air and
> most everyone should replace their flex hoses, but since they are
> discontinued. ... Cleaning them out or having new ones made may be
> their only solution. I have had to run a stiff wire into the flex
> lines of most all my s600's and never had an issue.
> --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> wrote:
> > Miles;
> > I care to
> differ with you.
> > Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but
> a split system such
> as the N
> > or Z 600 has can bleed from any point
> when trouble shooting. The
> point here
> > is to find out if the system
> is blocked in the rear. Also,
> reaming out the
> > lines is really a
> bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner
> lining of the
> > brake
> hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of
> compressed
> air
> > normally unplugs the line.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> [mailto:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ]On
> Behalf Of Miles
> > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41 PM
> > To:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > First
> bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it > > doesn't > bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen > the
> lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> > Then
> bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds > > more > fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better > remove
> the rubber lines and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is
> in
> > the fronts.
> > Then go for the rears. You can't
> cut corners when it comes to the
> > brakes. They all have to work. You
> can bypass the booster, but the
> > booster really helps to stop
> you.
> > Miles
> > --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> Jonathan Mistchenko and
> Sarah
> > Reeves
> wrote:
> > > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master
> cylinder isn't
> > frozen), it
> > > probably means your brake
> lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear
> > lines
> > > were solid
> with old dried fluid and I ended up having to replace
> > them.
> > You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but
> after
> > > several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of
> course I
> > had
> > > to buy the proper threaded nuts and have
> them fitted separately,
> > and
> > > bending them into place took
> a while.
> > > Jon
> > > cotton
> wrote:
> > > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders
> cleaned up and all looks good.
> Got
> > them
> > > > back on
> but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up
> with
> > fluid to
> > > > see if it would run out the lines and it
> didn't. Tried pumping
> > pedal and
> > > > still no fluid
> coming out. Should It. If it should, does that
> > mean I have
> > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care
> to?
> > > > Never was
> > > > a brake man but if I
> don't
> > > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies.
> Thanks
> > again .
> > > > cotteni@
>