big point gap?

[mterrens]

My Coupe is running roughly - like it wants to sputter to a stop. I figured
I ought to go through and check a few things - ignition timing, etc. I
started, randomly, at the point gap. The book says the gap should be 0.3 -
0.4mm. I assume this is with the gap at it's greatest point. My gap seems
to be about 2 full millimeters! This is such a discrepancy that I figured I
would write here for opinions before I adjusted it so dramatically. I have
never seen the gap "correct" so I have no baseline to work from. Click on
this link to see the point gap...
http://www.honda600coupe.com/2mm_point_gap.jpg
Your input is appreciated. I also happen to have a new contact set and a
new condensor. At what point should I decided to replace what I have?
Another issue. My crankshaft pulley doesn't seem to have a timing notch!
At least nothing that LOOKS like a notch that was put there intentionally.
What to do?
Thanks much,
Steve

[dealadayray]

Hi Steven;
You have ND points, I would set them as close to .016 then do a static test
with the bulb. Instructions are on the ANZ page, Files section in the
article on cam change. Also, pull the breaker plate and see if there is any
slop (Up and Down movement), not just twisting it. There is another article
on a cure for the breaker plate slop. Because if there is a significant
amount, you will never keep your engine in tune.
Bill

[mterrens]

Bill,
OK, I will move my (ND brand) points gap from .012 to .016. It's a wonder
the car ran at all, given that the points were set about 5x further apart
than they should have been (about 2mm, or .078) !
By the way, my "new" "contact set" is made by Lucas, # CS83, marked as Honda
# 30103-551-024 (for the sedan). Does that brand require a different gap
than my current ND set?
I will do the bulb test you suggest (now I gotta go buy one!). I understand
that the goal is to have the light go out as the notch on the pulley passes
the "F" mark on the flywheel cover (maybe the bulb test will help me find
that darned notch!) Here's what may be a silly question: the manual says to
"rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction". Which direction would THAT
be? In other words, working from above, pull the wrench towards the front
of the car, or push away?
Another question: I have read (in the article linked below) that the
condensor should be swapped out whenever the points are replaced. Why?
Also, I read that a bit of white lithium grease should be applied to the
distributor cam, to prevent the rubbing block from wearing too quickly - any
reason to NOT do that here?
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generali ... 502a_2.htm
Thanks,
Steve

[dealadayray]

Hi Steven;
Well, if you leave the engine trans in gear and move the crank shaft which
way will make the car move forward? That is the normal rotational direction
of the engine.
Bill