oil tap and pressure.

[riceburner006]

I drilled a hole in my oil filter cap at rigt angle to center
bolt,and brazed a piece of 3/16" brake line. the line runs along the
bottom of case inbetween 2 ribs so it doesn't get ripped off! My
pressure depends on oil viscosity and temperature,so it runs
anywhere from 3psi. to 25 psi. using 10/40 Royal Purple synthetic
oil. I like to use a straight 30 or 40w. in hot weather.
riceburner006.

[dealadayray]

Hi there Riceburner;
I ran an oil cooler and took the oil pressure off the "out" side of the
remote filter, taking the Temp from the "in" side. At Idle it was 0
pressure, 3K was at about 8 to 15. A new oil pump gave me 30 psi for about
50 miles, then it too broke in and gave the same pressure readings. What
really matters is the flow of oil. The pump circulates 3.5 quarts of oil
every minute or 11,000 revolutions. Do the math at 5 K and that is what
your oil is doing as you drive down the road.
But there is more to it than that, the rollers in your engine are all
roller bearing with the exception of the piston pin, rod ends the rockers,
rocker shafts and cam ends. The transmission too is all roller or ball
bearing with but 4 bushing type bearings. So psi is not the issue, it's
flow. This is why limiting the use of RTV or other like sealer is
imperative. Just one small ball of RTV will plug up the works and cause
things to get very hot. The other is the Oil pump rod, if it breaks then
flow stops and again things heat up real fast. If you have pulled a few
Honda 600 engines apart you will see the effects of over heating the oil.
Although the flow is not creating a lot of pressure, plug the breather
outlet at the top of the cam cover and see your engine develop all kinds of
leaks.
Bill

[riceburner006]

--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "william colford"
wrote:

> Hi there Riceburner;
> I ran an oil cooler and took the oil pressure off the "out" side of the
> remote filter, taking the Temp from the "in" side. At Idle it was 0
> pressure, 3K was at about 8 to 15. A new oil pump gave me 30 psi for about
> 50 miles, then it too broke in and gave the same pressure readings. What
> really matters is the flow of oil. The pump circulates 3.5 quarts of oil
> every minute or 11,000 revolutions. Do the math at 5 K and that is what
> your oil is doing as you drive down the road.
> But there is more to it than that, the rollers in your engine are all
> roller bearing with the exception of the piston pin, rod ends the rockers,
> rocker shafts and cam ends. The transmission too is all roller or ball
> bearing with but 4 bushing type bearings. So psi is not the issue, it's
> flow. This is why limiting the use of RTV or other like sealer is
> imperative. Just one small ball of RTV will plug up the works and cause
> things to get very hot. The other is the Oil pump rod, if it breaks then
> flow stops and again things heat up real fast. If you have pulled a few
> Honda 600 engines apart you will see the effects of over heating the oil.
> Although the flow is not creating a lot of pressure, plug the breather
> outlet at the top of the cam cover and see your engine develop all kinds of
> leaks.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "riceburner006"
> To: Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 9:41 PM
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] oil tap and pressure.
> > I drilled a hole in my oil filter cap at rigt angle to center
> > bolt,and brazed a piece of 3/16" brake line. the line runs along the
> > bottom of case inbetween 2 ribs so it doesn't get ripped off! My
> > pressure depends on oil viscosity and temperature,so it runs
> > anywhere from 3psi. to 25 psi. using 10/40 Royal Purple synthetic
> > oil. I like to use a straight 30 or 40w. in hot weather.
> > riceburner006.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Thanks for that info Bill,I never saw a broken oil pump rod

before,but all the pumps i've inspected were grooved from that
floating piston pin! Also the big end of the rod always wears. Over
the years I've tried almost everything trying to make the cranks
last longer,but nevertheless,the left side rod always goes before
any other bearing! I feel it is caused by the chain oiler breaking
off and making the oil "bleed off" towards the oiler instead of
flowing to the rod and crank bearing.

[LewetagK]

Bill;
  I agree that oil flow is what is important EXCEPT for the tensioner for the chain. That is way I looked at the pump for sensing pressure. Without pressure it losses tension and without tension, which is what happened to me, you jump the chain and you flatten the values. Now the pressure loss I first wrote about took months to happen that is way I assume (assuming only because I haven't opened the engine yet) my modification came loose and started leaking.
Ken

> Hi there Riceburner;
>   I ran an oil cooler and took the oil pressure off the "out" side of the
> remote filter, taking the Temp from the "in" side.  At Idle it was 0
> pressure, 3K was at about 8 to 15.  A new oil pump gave me 30 psi for about
> 50 miles, then it too broke in and gave the same pressure readings.   What
> really matters is the flow of oil.  The pump circulates 3.5 quarts of oil
> every minute or 11,000 revolutions.  Do the math at 5 K and that is what
> your oil is doing as you drive down the road.
>   But there is more to it than that, the rollers in your engine are all
> roller bearing with the exception of the piston pin, rod ends the rockers,
> rocker shafts and cam ends.  The transmission too is all roller or ball
> bearing with but 4 bushing type bearings.  So psi is not the issue, it's
> flow.  This is why limiting the use of RTV or other like sealer is
> imperative.  Just one small ball of RTV will plug up the works and cause
> things to get very hot.  The other is the Oil pump rod, if it breaks then
> flow stops and again things heat up real fast.  If you have pulled a few
> Honda 600 engines apart you will see the effects of over heating the oil.
>   Although the flow is not creating a lot of pressure,  plug the breather
> outlet at the top of the cam cover and see your engine develop all kinds of
> leaks.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "riceburner006"
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 9:41 PM
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] oil tap and pressure.
> >I drilled a hole in my oil filter cap at rigt angle to center
> >bolt,and brazed a piece of 3/16" brake line. the line runs along the
> >bottom of case inbetween 2 ribs so it doesn't get ripped off! My
> >pressure depends on oil viscosity and temperature,so it runs
> >anywhere from 3psi. to 25 psi. using 10/40 Royal Purple synthetic
> >oil. I like to use a straight 30 or 40w. in hot weather.
> >riceburner006.
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >anzhonda600owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->

Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important Questions.
Click Here!
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
anzhonda600owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Colin]

Ya, I actually am running a cooler setup vrey similar to Bill's. I am
useing 3/8 inch fitting TIG welded to the oil fitter cover and center
bolt. 1/2 inch oil line running to a 24 plate mesa cooler located
just below the front engine brace. It's nice to hear what you guys
have found on your oil pressure, from what I can tell, it's almost
not worth havin a guage. I am planning an adding a temp guage one of
these day, but I am kind of broke right now and it will have to wait.
Bill, I'm going to give you a call about that chain today. Thanks,
Colin

[dealadayray]

Hi there Riceburner;
Drilling into the oil pump really sounds scary. I sleeved the center
pipe to the oil filter assembly and drilled, taped, 1/4 pipe thread and used
a street elbow to direct it away from the engine. I then remove the filter
(I used a remote filter set up with the PH8A filter) taped the lid with
anther 1/4 pipe nipple (just about turned 1.5 threads. Then had it brazed
into place. This way the option of using the oil filter with another center
pipe and lid is still there. But I could also use the "O" rings and have a
tight seal. You just have to remember that the oil comes out of the lid and
into the center pipe. Screw this small issue up and you will blow the
filter off the remote filter holder. Really, But the really great way this
works is that you just use a "T" fitting and thread your oil pressure gauge
right in. Then EMPI, the guys that make all the stuff for VW's has a Oil
Thermostat that keeps the oil in the engine (routing it back into the
engine) by-passing the cooler until the engine reaches 165 degrees. Works
great.
But with every great system, there are concerns, with the oil being
routed outside of the engine with rubber hose and hose clamps keeping
everything safe, there have been owners who knock off the fittings coming
out of the center pipe, rip the hose off or let the cooler drag on the
street. All of which means that the oil leaves a train to a very over
heated engine. Yep, you have it, as I said earlier, one minute, 11.000 revs
and all your oil is gone. I used one on a daily driver that I never had a
problem for 6 years and over 40,000 miles before I sold it. And 6 of the
cars I put coolers on over 10 years ago are still running. Right Harry? No
brag, just hard facts. An air cooled engine placed in a box needs something
else to keep it cool. Heat will and often does kill an engine. This is why
so many high performance engines use oil coolers.
Bill
Bill