Re: [2cylinderhondas] jumped time on my az600

[dealadayray]

Hi Dave, Joel and all the other Honda 600 Fans;
You must get serious about your engine and cam chain in particular.
Moving this or that one way or the other is just attaching faith healing to
your mechanical device. It's not organic and will not heal itself, neither
will letting out the clutch or parking one way or the other. The cam chain
needs to be changed out if it is stretched. How do you tell, if it is an
original Honda chain place your timing mark on "T" for top dead center and
while watching the cam through the Oil fill hole see how long it takes for
the cam to move while you move the timing mark from the T to the F mark on
the stator cover. I used to say if you reach the F your cam chain is
finished. This is true for most cases, however if the cam teeth are warn or
the tensioner is failing or has failed, or if the engine has not been
started for over a week (long enough for the oil in the tensioner to run
out) this may give you a false reading on your chain. Either way, your
chain is stretched and needs to be changed. This occurs roughly between 40K
and 60K on the chain. Some after market chains may replace very well but
the rule of thumb changes.
Be aware of the play between the rotation of the crank shaft and the
Cam they should move immediately and together. Allowing your rockers to be
set at 4 or 5 thousands is also a move in the wrong direction. If you look
at the rocker to cam surface a bad rocker is identified by the flat area in
the middle of the riding surface of the rocker arm. Increasing the distance
between the rocker and the cam will only cause more flat area on the rocker
producing an audible clicking in the engine. If your rockers are getting
flat, replace them with new ones. Another way is to have them Hard Chromed
and ground to factory specs. The next is to have the cam reground, grind
the rocker and place 15 thousands or more lash caps on your valve stems.
All are tried and true repairs and work.
Allow me just a few more words, please.
This is a 30+ year old car, and many of the replacement parts are
also 30+ years old. Simple ways to keep your Honda 600 alive and well are
to keep it clean, the whole car, but especially the engine and engine
compartment. If you have a leak, find out where it is coming from, the fan
will blow oil everywhere. Just tightening a bolt will normally strip
threads and never stop the leak. Using a torque wrench on all bolts is a
must when working on an aluminum engine. If I had to count all the damaged
threads I have had to repair because of some one bearing down on a bolt or
nut thinking it will hold and then leaving it in, the batteries in my
calculator would go out before I was finished. Or when the part is removed
where the leak is only to find parts of the previous gasket is still there
and the new gasket can't make a seal.
I could go on for quite a while on ways to keep your Honda 600
moving down the road, but the basics are the same and never change. As for
Torque, on a 6mm bolt it's torqued correctly at 90 inch pounds for aluminum
threads and 120 inch pounds for steel threads. Use red lock tight and
torque to spec, clean and rule all surfaces before applying the gasket and
you should have a well sealed engine.
Bill Colford.

[harryL1190]

thanks bill for the 'in your face info' keep up the GREAT WORK
harry