Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...

[zinc2u]

Connect your lamp between where the blue wire connects to the points and the metal case of the distributor.
If you have some oil on your points,  you could see a little bit of smoke when the points are closed and the heat created where the points close cause the oil to burn off.  It should be only a little bit of smoke ....
less than you would see from a lit cigarette.
Gap your points for .012 to .016 inches or use a dwell meter and set to 90 degrees (if your dwell meter does not have a setting for 2 cylinders,  set to 4 cylinders and adjust for a 45 degree reading).
good luck,
Dale

> I am
> connecting the lamp one end to the points and one end to the ignition coil - > is that correct?
> Before the engine stopped starting I saw some smoke
> coming out of the breaker compartment where the vacuum advance goes > in.

Snoop, Lil Wayne, Lady GaGa -- land the tix you need for this summer's biggest tours.
Tourtracker.com

[Tom Feick]

Thanks for info - When I connect to the blue wire and the metal case then rotate the engine i get nothing. Does anybody have any advice?
Thank you,
Tom

--- On
Fri, 7/17/09, goinhm@...

wrote:
> From: goinhm@...
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, July 17, 2009, 12:56 PM
> Connect your lamp between where the blue wire connects to the points and > the metal case of the distributor.
> If you have some oil on your points,  you could see a little bit of > smoke when the points are closed and the heat created where the points close > cause the oil to burn off.  It should be only a little bit of smoke ....
> less than you would see from a lit cigarette.
> Gap your points for .012 to .016 inches or use a dwell meter and set to 90 > degrees (if your dwell meter does not have a setting for 2 cylinders,  set > to 4 cylinders and adjust for a 45 degree reading).
> good luck,
> Dale
> > I am
> > connecting the lamp one end to the points and one end to the ignition coil - > > is that correct?
> > Before the engine stopped starting I saw some smoke
> > coming out of the breaker compartment where the vacuum advance goes > > in.
> Snoop, Lil Wayne, Lady GaGa -- land the tix you need for this summer's biggest tours.
> Tourtracker. com

[Kevin Keough]

may have a bad coil or the distribitor may be shorted if you turn the key to the on and hook every thing up try to take a screwdriver and open and close the points you should get spark you can call me if you like and we could try to trouble shoot it over the phone Kevin XXX-XXX-XXXX evenings after 630

--- On
Sun, 7/19/09, Tom Feick

wrote:
> From: Tom Feick
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 10:28 PM
> Thanks for info - When I connect to the blue wire and the metal case then rotate the engine i get nothing. Does anybody have any advice?
> Thank you,
> Tom
> --- On
> Fri, 7/17/09, goinhm@...
>
> wrote:
> > From: goinhm@...
> > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
> > To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Friday, July 17, 2009, 12:56 PM
> > Connect your lamp between where the blue wire connects to the points and the metal case of the distributor.
> > If you have some oil on your points,  you could see a little bit of smoke when the points are closed and the heat created where the points close cause the oil to burn off.  It should be only a little bit of smoke .... less than you would see from a lit cigarette.
> > Gap your points for .012 to .016 inches or use a dwell meter and set to 90 degrees (if your dwell meter does not have a setting for 2 cylinders,  set to 4 cylinders and adjust for a 45 degree reading).
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > > I am connecting the lamp one end to the points and one end to the ignition coil - is that correct?
> > > Before the engine stopped starting I saw some smoke coming out of the breaker compartment where the vacuum advance goes in.
> > Snoop, Lil Wayne, Lady GaGa -- land the tix you need for this summer's biggest tours.
> > Tourtracker. com

[franknfike]

Here is the sequence of events that led me here. I bought the car, replaced the fuel line, cleaned and sealed the tank, cleaned the carb, fixed the fuel pump and the car started right up. After working on the brakes and wheels I took it out in the neighborhood for a few spins with the kids (about 3 miles total). I turned it off for a few minutes and when I went to start it again it was hard to start (foot totally down on the accelerator and choke out). Drove it right into the garage and turned it off, then i noticed a little smoke coming out from the ignition through the vacuum advance port. Here is the part where I might have screwed up - a few days later I loosened the vacuum advance then tried to start it but no luck. Put the vacuum advance back to where it was originally, tried to start again without success.
I have taken out the point and condenser several times now trying to find a local parts store to replace them but they don't have the parts. I have tried many, many times to reset the timing with a bulb but cannot get the bulb to light during the engine rotation.
After reading your points - the lights come on and all of the fuses checked out good.
To test the coil I used my ohm meter. The ignition key was in the start position. I put the positive lead into the end of the spark plug wire then put the negative lead to the engine to ground it - no ohms. I then put one lead to the blue wire coming from the coil and the other lead to the spark plug wire - still no ohm's.
I think the power is getting through the coil because when I hook my bulb between the blue wire from the coil and the blue wire from the point and condenser the light comes on - and stays on.
I don't know how coils work but could it be that just because some juice is getting through it could still be bad?
Tom

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Kevin Keough wrote:
> may have a bad coil or the distribitor may be shorted if you turn the key to the on and hook every thing up try to take a screwdriver and open and close the points you should get spark you can call me if you like and we could try to trouble shoot it over the phone Kevin XXX-XXX-XXXX evenings after 630
> --- On Sun, 7/19/09, Tom Feick wrote:
> From: Tom Feick
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 10:28 PM
> �
> Thanks for info - When I connect to the blue wire and the metal case then rotate the engine i get nothing. Does anybody have any advice?
> Thank you,
> Tom
> --- On Fri, 7/17/09, goinhm@... wrote:
> From: goinhm@...
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
> To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Friday, July 17, 2009, 12:56 PM
> �
> Connect your lamp between where the blue wire connects to the points and the metal case of the distributor.
> �
> If you have some oil on your points,� you could see a little bit of smoke when the points are closed and the heat created where the points close cause the oil to burn off.� It should be only a little bit of smoke .... less than you would see from a lit cigarette.
> �
> Gap your points for .012 to .016 inches or use a dwell meter and set to 90 degrees (if your dwell meter does not have a setting for 2 cylinders,� set to 4 cylinders and adjust for a 45 degree reading).
> �
> good luck,
> Dale
> I am connecting the lamp one end to the points and one end to the ignition coil - is that correct?
> Before the engine stopped starting I saw some smoke coming out of the breaker compartment where the vacuum advance goes in.
> Snoop, Lil Wayne, Lady GaGa -- land the tix you need for this summer's biggest tours. Tourtracker. com

[zinc2u]

Tom,
    Check the ground connection of your coil.  In a stock configuration,  the coil frame bolts to the chassis with a split washer/nut and there is also a ground cable which connected to this same threaded stud.  The ground cable went from the battery negative, bolted to the chassis at the ignition coil,  and then proceeded to the engine block where it was bolted.  If your ignition coil is not properly grounded,  you could see the problems you are experiencing.
    You should measure a high resistance between each spark plug connector and the coil frame (which should be grounded).  You should also measure a high resistance between the 2 spark plug connectors.  You should see a low resistance (near zero) between the engine block and the frame of the ignition coil.
good luck,
Dale

> To
> test the coil I used my ohm meter. The ignition key was in the start position.
> I put the positive lead into the end of the spark plug wire then put the > negative lead to the engine to ground it - no ohms. I then put one lead to the > blue wire coming from the coil and the other lead to the spark plug wire - > still no ohm's.
> I think the power is getting through the coil because
> when I hook my bulb between the blue wire from the coil and the blue wire from > the point and condenser the light comes on - and stays on.
> I don't
> know how coils work but could it be that just because some juice is getting > through it could still be > bad?

What's for dinner tonight? Find quick and easy dinner ideas for any occasion.

[Kevin Lister]

Tom,
If you are attempting to measure resistance of a component you do not want the circuit potentially energized! You should always disconnect the coil from the car before taking resistance measurements!
If your ohm-meter is not auto-ranging then you must make sure that your ohm-meter is set to the proper range.
You may want to check the primary winding and the secondary winding.
kev

--- On
Tue, 7/21/09, goinhm@...

wrote:
From: goinhm@...
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connec...
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 2009, 1:30 PM
Tom,
Check the ground connection of your coil.  In a stock configuration,  the coil frame bolts to the chassis with a split washer/nut and there is also a ground cable which connected to this same threaded stud.  The ground cable went from the battery negative,  bolted to the chassis at the ignition coil,  and then proceeded to the engine block where it was bolted.  If your ignition coil is not properly grounded,  you could see the problems you are experiencing.
You should measure a high resistance between each spark plug connector and the coil frame (which should be grounded).  You should also measure a high resistance between the 2 spark plug connectors.  You should see a low resistance (near zero) between the engine block and the frame of the ignition coil.
good luck,
Dale
> To test the coil I used my ohm meter. The ignition key was in the start position. I put the positive lead into the end of the spark plug wire then put the negative lead to the engine to ground it - no ohms. I then put one lead to the blue wire coming from the coil and the other lead to the spark plug wire - still no ohm's.
> I think the power is getting through the coil because when I hook my bulb between the blue wire from the coil and the blue wire from the point and condenser the light comes on - and stays on.
> I don't know how coils work but could it be that just because some juice is getting through it could still be bad?
What's for dinner tonight? Find
quick and easy dinner ideas
for any occasion.