Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connections

[rossgashley]

Hi from Ross in the UK.
I am having problems getting my Z to run. I was hoping someone could
have a look at this photo: http://www.skillbasetraining.co.uk/z.jpg
and tell me if I have the yellow condensor wire & blue primary wire
connected properly to the breaker points.
The problem I am having is that the engine will start if I crank it
over for long enough and hold the choke & accelerator open on the carb
while I am doing this but this takes a long time and the engine will
eventually fire, but this seems to happen when I let go of the
ignition key and it will fire, but only if I am holding the
accelerator & choke open. The engine will stall as soon as I let go of
the accelerator.
I have set the breaker point gap correctly & I am getting a spark at
both the plugs, I have checked this by taking the plugs out, grouding
them against the engine and checking for a spark when I crank the
engine & I get one.
However I think a big problem might be that when I try to set the
ignition timing by connecting a light across the primary wire to
ground, turn the crank shaft pulley the match up with the F mark, I am
unable to no matter how many times I try to make the light come on by
loosening the vacuum advance and moving it backwards and forwards. The
light will come on and off as I crank the engine round by hand, but
never at the point where the F marks are aligned and I cannot change
this by moving the vacuum advance.
Any suggestions will be really appreciated.
Thanks,
Ross

[Eddie Velasquez]

if your getting fire, i dont think nothing is wrong with the points, I am no expert,  is it getting gas? I would clean the carb, then shoot some gumout spray before you crank it, should start right up

--- On
Sat, 1/24/09, rossgashley

wrote:
> From: rossgashley
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Starting problems - condensor & primary wire connections > To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com > Date: Saturday, January 24, 2009, 1:18 PM
> Hi from Ross in the UK.
> I am having problems getting my Z to run. I was hoping someone could > have a look at this photo:
> http://www.skillbas etraining. co.uk/z.jpg
> and tell me if I have the yellow condensor wire & blue primary wire > connected properly to the breaker points.
> The problem I am having is that the engine will start if I crank it > over for long enough and hold the choke & accelerator open on the carb > while I am doing this but this takes a long time and the engine will > eventually fire, but this seems to happen when I let go of the > ignition key and it will fire, but only if I am holding the > accelerator & choke open. The engine will stall as soon as I let go of > the accelerator.
> I have set the breaker point gap correctly & I am getting a spark at > both the plugs, I have checked this by taking the > plugs out, grouding > them against the engine and checking for a spark when I crank the > engine & I get one.
> However I think a big problem might be that when I try to set the > ignition timing by connecting a light across the primary wire to > ground, turn the crank shaft pulley the match up with the F mark, I am > unable to no matter how many times I try to make the light come on by > loosening the vacuum advance and moving it backwards and forwards. The > light will come on and off as I crank the engine round by hand, but > never at the point where the F marks are aligned and I cannot change > this by moving the vacuum advance.
> Any suggestions will be really appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Ross

[fedweezee]

From what you are explaining it sounds like a carb problem.

[Miles]

Here's some things to look for:
AZ600 has it's own fuel pump fuse, not sure about UK cars.
Check for fuel flow to carb.
Float level in carb.
Replace fuel filter located under back seat bottom.
Make sure choke is working.
Gap points to .015" and make sure ignition timing is correct.
Valve adjustment .004" to .006" int & exh. adjust on split overlap
Miles

[zinc2u]

Hi Ross,
    I noticed some of the other comments posted regarding your starting problems.
From your comments it appears you may have a problem with the cam not properly aligned
to the crankshaft OR a problem in the area of the cam which drives the points.
   Remove the oil cap from the top of the valve cover and you should be able to see the
where the cam rests in the cam holder (this is the bearing surface for the cam).  Turn over the
crankshaft manually until you see a slot appear on the camshaft in this bearing holder.  When
you slot in the cam is showing,  your crankshaft pulley should have its notch aligned with
the "T" mark on the casing.  If you remove a spark plug,  the piston should be at TDC for both
cylinders.   If this is not occurring,  you will need to realign your camshaft to the crankshaft.  This
can be done in several ways and if you can't figure it out,  let us know.
   If all these marks are in alignment and the pistons are at TDC,  then you may have a problem
with the breaker plate or the cam which drives it.  The cam which drives the breaker plate is registered
to the camshaft by a pin driven into the camshaft.  It is possible the cam is not aligned properly to the camshaft.  You should be able to set the crank at the "F" position and be able to move the vacuum advance
back and forth and watch the points open and close.  If this is not happening,  you would have the problems
you are experiencing.
    It is also possible the mechanical advance is worn out.  The springs may need replacing.  If they become
stretched,  the breaker plate moves to full mechanical advance as soon as the camshaft starts turning.
You will have to remove the breaker plate (held in place by two screws and the 10mm nut on the camshaft) to see the mechanical advance or check out the cam which drives the points.
good luck,
Dale

> I have
> set the breaker point gap correctly & I am getting a spark at > both the > plugs, I have checked this by taking the plugs out, grouding > them against > the engine and checking for a spark when I crank the > engine & I get > one.
> However I think a big problem might be that when I try to set > the > ignition timing by connecting a light across the primary wire > to > ground, turn the crank shaft pulley the match up with the F mark, I > am > unable to no matter how many times I try to make the light come on > by > loosening the vacuum advance and moving it backwards and forwards.
> The
> light will come on and off as I crank the engine round by hand, > but > never at the point where the F marks are aligned and I cannot > change > this by moving the vacuum advance.
> Any suggestions will be
> really appreciated.

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[rossgashley]

Hi from Snowed In England.
Thanks to everybody who has replied to my post and offered advice.
Particulary the reply from Dale, I am going to try that in the next
couple of days.
Brief history of my car is that I bought it 5 years ago, it had not
been used for 11 years, but had only done 55K miles. Was incredibly
rusty and I concentrated on getting the body right and then moved onto
the mechanics. After I dismantled the carb and cleaned it all with
carb cleaner it fired into life instantly and ran like that just
moving it in and out of the garage perfectly for a couple of months.
Then it suddenly developed this already mentioned starting problem.
I think Dales suggestion sounds right on the mark and a will let you
know how it works out for me.
Thanks,
Ross

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@... wrote:
> Hi Ross,
> I noticed some of the other comments posted regarding your
starting
> problems.
> From your comments it appears you may have a problem with the cam not
> properly aligned
> to the crankshaft OR a problem in the area of the cam which drives the
> points.
> Remove the oil cap from the top of the valve cover and you
should be able
> to see the
> where the cam rests in the cam holder (this is the bearing surface
for the
> cam). Turn over the
> crankshaft manually until you see a slot appear on the camshaft in
this
> bearing holder. When
> you slot in the cam is showing, your crankshaft pulley should have
its
> notch aligned with
> the "T" mark on the casing. If you remove a spark plug, the
piston should
> be at TDC for both
> cylinders. If this is not occurring, you will need to realign your
> camshaft to the crankshaft. This
> can be done in several ways and if you can't figure it out, let us
know.
> If all these marks are in alignment and the pistons are at TDC,
then you
> may have a problem
> with the breaker plate or the cam which drives it. The cam which
drives the
> breaker plate is registered
> to the camshaft by a pin driven into the camshaft. It is possible
the cam
> is not aligned properly to the camshaft. You should be able to set
the crank
> at the "F" position and be able to move the vacuum advance
> back and forth and watch the points open and close. If this is not
> happening, you would have the problems
> you are experiencing.
> It is also possible the mechanical advance is worn out. The
springs may
> need replacing. If they become
> stretched, the breaker plate moves to full mechanical advance as
soon as
> the camshaft starts turning.
> You will have to remove the breaker plate (held in place by two
screws and
> the 10mm nut on the camshaft) to see the mechanical advance or check
out the
> cam which drives the points.
> good luck,
> Dale
> I have set the breaker point gap correctly & I am getting a spark at
> both the plugs, I have checked this by taking the plugs out, grouding
> them against the engine and checking for a spark when I crank the
> engine & I get one.
> However I think a big problem might be that when I try to set the
> ignition timing by connecting a light across the primary wire to
> ground, turn the crank shaft pulley the match up with the F mark, I am
> unable to no matter how many times I try to make the light come on by
> loosening the vacuum advance and moving it backwards and forwards. The
> light will come on and off as I crank the engine round by hand, but
> never at the point where the F marks are aligned and I cannot change
> this by moving the vacuum advance.
> Any suggestions will be really appreciated.
> **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you
improve your
> credit score.
(
http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit- ... ll00000002)

[franknfike]

I am having a similar problem - car started and ran after cleaning the carb and fuel lines but now won't start. The difference is that when I try to check the timing with a 12v lamp connected the lamp stays on the during the entire rotation of the crankshaft.
I am connecting the lamp one end to the points and one end to the ignition coil - is that correct?
Before the engine stopped starting I saw some smoke coming out of the breaker compartment where the vacuum advance goes in.
Any recommendations? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Tom

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "rossgashley" wrote:
> Hi from Snowed In England.
> Thanks to everybody who has replied to my post and offered advice.
> Particulary the reply from Dale, I am going to try that in the next
> couple of days.
> Brief history of my car is that I bought it 5 years ago, it had not
> been used for 11 years, but had only done 55K miles. Was incredibly
> rusty and I concentrated on getting the body right and then moved onto
> the mechanics. After I dismantled the carb and cleaned it all with
> carb cleaner it fired into life instantly and ran like that just
> moving it in and out of the garage perfectly for a couple of months.
> Then it suddenly developed this already mentioned starting problem.
> I think Dales suggestion sounds right on the mark and a will let you
> know how it works out for me.
> Thanks,
> Ross
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@ wrote:
> > Hi Ross,
> > I noticed some of the other comments posted regarding your
> starting
> > problems.
> > From your comments it appears you may have a problem with the cam not
> > properly aligned
> > to the crankshaft OR a problem in the area of the cam which drives the
> > points.
> > Remove the oil cap from the top of the valve cover and you
> should be able
> > to see the
> > where the cam rests in the cam holder (this is the bearing surface
> for the
> > cam). Turn over the
> > crankshaft manually until you see a slot appear on the camshaft in
> this
> > bearing holder. When
> > you slot in the cam is showing, your crankshaft pulley should have
> its
> > notch aligned with
> > the "T" mark on the casing. If you remove a spark plug, the
> piston should
> > be at TDC for both
> > cylinders. If this is not occurring, you will need to realign your
> > camshaft to the crankshaft. This
> > can be done in several ways and if you can't figure it out, let us
> know.
> > If all these marks are in alignment and the pistons are at TDC,
> then you
> > may have a problem
> > with the breaker plate or the cam which drives it. The cam which
> drives the
> > breaker plate is registered
> > to the camshaft by a pin driven into the camshaft. It is possible
> the cam
> > is not aligned properly to the camshaft. You should be able to set
> the crank
> > at the "F" position and be able to move the vacuum advance
> > back and forth and watch the points open and close. If this is not
> > happening, you would have the problems
> > you are experiencing.
> > It is also possible the mechanical advance is worn out. The
> springs may
> > need replacing. If they become
> > stretched, the breaker plate moves to full mechanical advance as
> soon as
> > the camshaft starts turning.
> > You will have to remove the breaker plate (held in place by two
> screws and
> > the 10mm nut on the camshaft) to see the mechanical advance or check
> out the
> > cam which drives the points.
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > I have set the breaker point gap correctly & I am getting a spark at
> > both the plugs, I have checked this by taking the plugs out, grouding
> > them against the engine and checking for a spark when I crank the
> > engine & I get one.
> > However I think a big problem might be that when I try to set the
> > ignition timing by connecting a light across the primary wire to
> > ground, turn the crank shaft pulley the match up with the F mark, I am
> > unable to no matter how many times I try to make the light come on by
> > loosening the vacuum advance and moving it backwards and forwards. The
> > light will come on and off as I crank the engine round by hand, but
> > never at the point where the F marks are aligned and I cannot change
> > this by moving the vacuum advance.
> > Any suggestions will be really appreciated.
> > **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you
> improve your
> > credit score.
> (
http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit- ... ll00000002)