Hello All;
My name is kenny and I am want to rebuild the top end of my little
honda AZ600 coupe. The compression rings on one cylinder are kapup. So
I will be buying a top end kit from Mike O'Connor. Also I will be
purchasing a rebuilt valve train from Honda wizard on E-bay.I have the
skills and the tools to put this all together.
I have a couple of questions. What has been the overall experience
with the 1mm oversize pistons? Also the top slot for the cam chain
slipper is worn on the cylinder barrel. How critical is this.(outside
of cam chain noise), can it be repaired? This same cylinder barrel
also has 3 stripped 10mm holes(I was just gonna heli-coil them.)Should
I just replace this cylinder barrel? If so, would some one have a
cylinder barrel.(preferably bored out 1mm allready)for sale?
Any recommendations and opinions would be most appreciated.
I thank you.
kenny
peace, love, harmony
A couple of questions about rebuilding the top-end.
Re: A couple of questions about rebuilding the top-end.
Kenny,
See my responses below.
I have a couple of questions. What has been the overall experience
with the 1mm oversize pistons?
1mm oversize pistons work fine. Why are you going to 1mm rather than .25,
.50, or .75? Is that the only size piston kit you can purchase? All my
experience has been with Genuine Honda pistons and rings. The Honda parts work
great.
Also the top slot for the cam chain
slipper is worn on the cylinder barrel. How critical is this.(outside
of cam chain noise), can it be repaired?
You want to repair the worn area to eliminate the excess play on the
slipper. If you don't repair it, the vibration will destroy the slipper and wear a
larger slot at the top. I once used a metal epoxy (or it may have been JB
Weld) to fix the same problem. It worked great. I still have the engine and
the slipper is still holding up (I did the repair about 20 years ago).
This same cylinder barrel
also has 3 stripped 10mm holes(I was just gonna heli-coil them.)
Heli-coil will work fine. You can also tap them for a different size and
thread. I prefer to not do this since then I have all the bolts in this area
using a 10mm socket and then a couple odd ball sizes. I prefer to keep it
stock, if possible.
Should
I just replace this cylinder barrel? If so, would some one have a
cylinder barrel.(preferably bored out 1mm allready)for sale?
Why replace a barrel if it is usable? You want the bores sized to the
pistons which you will use. BTW, I have had the cylinder bores replaced with
cylinder liners and then I am back to standard size.
Before you get too deep into your top end rebuild, check the play on the
connecting rods and check the diameter where the piston pin fits. If these are
out of tolerance, you have more serious problems. Oversize piston pins
were available for these cars. If the journal end of the conn rod is out of
tolerance, you have serious problems. The cranks are rebuildable but you will
have a problem finding the parts and finding someone to press the cranks
apart and re-assembling them.
Finally, check the cam chain and cam chain tensioner to verify they are
still within their serviceable limit.
good luck,
Dale
Any recommendations and opinions would be most appreciated.
I thank you.
kenny
See my responses below.
I have a couple of questions. What has been the overall experience
with the 1mm oversize pistons?
1mm oversize pistons work fine. Why are you going to 1mm rather than .25,
.50, or .75? Is that the only size piston kit you can purchase? All my
experience has been with Genuine Honda pistons and rings. The Honda parts work
great.
Also the top slot for the cam chain
slipper is worn on the cylinder barrel. How critical is this.(outside
of cam chain noise), can it be repaired?
You want to repair the worn area to eliminate the excess play on the
slipper. If you don't repair it, the vibration will destroy the slipper and wear a
larger slot at the top. I once used a metal epoxy (or it may have been JB
Weld) to fix the same problem. It worked great. I still have the engine and
the slipper is still holding up (I did the repair about 20 years ago).
This same cylinder barrel
also has 3 stripped 10mm holes(I was just gonna heli-coil them.)
Heli-coil will work fine. You can also tap them for a different size and
thread. I prefer to not do this since then I have all the bolts in this area
using a 10mm socket and then a couple odd ball sizes. I prefer to keep it
stock, if possible.
Should
I just replace this cylinder barrel? If so, would some one have a
cylinder barrel.(preferably bored out 1mm allready)for sale?
Why replace a barrel if it is usable? You want the bores sized to the
pistons which you will use. BTW, I have had the cylinder bores replaced with
cylinder liners and then I am back to standard size.
Before you get too deep into your top end rebuild, check the play on the
connecting rods and check the diameter where the piston pin fits. If these are
out of tolerance, you have more serious problems. Oversize piston pins
were available for these cars. If the journal end of the conn rod is out of
tolerance, you have serious problems. The cranks are rebuildable but you will
have a problem finding the parts and finding someone to press the cranks
apart and re-assembling them.
Finally, check the cam chain and cam chain tensioner to verify they are
still within their serviceable limit.
good luck,
Dale
Any recommendations and opinions would be most appreciated.
I thank you.
kenny