Do I need to remove the fan to get to the tensioner? Have patience
with me, I am a VW guy. Trying to loosen the chain so I can realign
my cam. Thanks,
Bill in Missouri
Tensioner
-
riceburner006
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2002 7:23 am
Re: Tensioner
--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" wrote:
6mm bolts,as they are usually damaged. Also check the O rings on the
tensioner,as the're probably hard and flattened out. riceburner006
Yes! and you may need to replace a few of those fan cushions and or> Do I need to remove the fan to get to the tensioner? Have patience
> with me, I am a VW guy. Trying to loosen the chain so I can realign
> my cam. Thanks,
> Bill in Missouri
6mm bolts,as they are usually damaged. Also check the O rings on the
tensioner,as the're probably hard and flattened out. riceburner006
Re: Tensioner
Hi Bill
As was already said, the fan has to be removed to get to the hydraulic
tensioner, and there are two "O" rings that need replacing ( I have extras
if you need them). But what was not said is that the tensioner needs to be
taken apart and cleaned, examined and tested before being replaced. The
check valve will trap junk causing it not to seal which means it won't hold
under pressure. (no matter what "O" rings you replace. RTV is the biggest
culprit here (just like in VW's). What to examine when the tensioner is
apart? check and clean the check valve for junk, look at the working end of
the piston for wear (some times they will have flat spots on the end and
need replacing). Make sure the spring is not broken and the clip holding
everything together is in good condition. Test it as the Sedan shop manual
says, if all works out, . put on new "O" rings and reinstall. I have found
only two lower tensioners that I could not use.
But back to the cam question; I have found several cams that have been
marked twice. It looked like one was cast into the cam and the other was
put on later. I look at the mark and the notch at the (clutch side) end of
the cam. This is illustrated in the Coupe shop manual on page 64. The only
way your chain could have jumped a tooth is if it has stretched. Then you
need a new cam chain, but you said it was changed 10 K ago, so I doubt this
is the case.
Bill, looking at all the e-mail threads on your car not going faster
than 30 miles per hour. I have to ask a few more questions;
1. What did you do besides changing the plugs, coil and oil?
2. Did this condition exist before you changed the plugs, coil and oil?
3. If it was running well before, and you didn't touch the cam or cam
chain what makes you believe it has jumped a tooth?
4. does the engine (sitting in your drive way) have the rpm's? Or is it
giving you about half the rpms it had before?
My thoughts, this is an electrical problem and not mechanical. Take
both plugs out and with them grounded to the engine turn the engine over and
see if both are getting spark. I think one of the cables on your coil is
not giving you spark and you are running on one piston.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of riceburner006
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 7:27 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Tensioner
As was already said, the fan has to be removed to get to the hydraulic
tensioner, and there are two "O" rings that need replacing ( I have extras
if you need them). But what was not said is that the tensioner needs to be
taken apart and cleaned, examined and tested before being replaced. The
check valve will trap junk causing it not to seal which means it won't hold
under pressure. (no matter what "O" rings you replace. RTV is the biggest
culprit here (just like in VW's). What to examine when the tensioner is
apart? check and clean the check valve for junk, look at the working end of
the piston for wear (some times they will have flat spots on the end and
need replacing). Make sure the spring is not broken and the clip holding
everything together is in good condition. Test it as the Sedan shop manual
says, if all works out, . put on new "O" rings and reinstall. I have found
only two lower tensioners that I could not use.
But back to the cam question; I have found several cams that have been
marked twice. It looked like one was cast into the cam and the other was
put on later. I look at the mark and the notch at the (clutch side) end of
the cam. This is illustrated in the Coupe shop manual on page 64. The only
way your chain could have jumped a tooth is if it has stretched. Then you
need a new cam chain, but you said it was changed 10 K ago, so I doubt this
is the case.
Bill, looking at all the e-mail threads on your car not going faster
than 30 miles per hour. I have to ask a few more questions;
1. What did you do besides changing the plugs, coil and oil?
2. Did this condition exist before you changed the plugs, coil and oil?
3. If it was running well before, and you didn't touch the cam or cam
chain what makes you believe it has jumped a tooth?
4. does the engine (sitting in your drive way) have the rpm's? Or is it
giving you about half the rpms it had before?
My thoughts, this is an electrical problem and not mechanical. Take
both plugs out and with them grounded to the engine turn the engine over and
see if both are getting spark. I think one of the cables on your coil is
not giving you spark and you are running on one piston.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of riceburner006
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 7:27 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Tensioner
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Bill" wrote:
> Do I need to remove the fan to get to the tensioner? Have patience
> with me, I am a VW guy. Trying to loosen the chain so I can realign
> my cam. Thanks,
> Bill in Missouri
Yes! and you may need to replace a few of those fan cushions and or
6mm bolts,as they are usually damaged. Also check the O rings on the
tensioner,as the're probably hard and flattened out. riceburner006