I have been swapping parts between my good AN600 and my parts car in an
effort to get the brakes to work. I started with a fairly firm pedal
and I could lock up at least one rear wheel if I stepped on the pedal
hard enough. I removed the brake booster but nothing changed. I
greased and cleaned the calipers and added new pins, and the pistons
seems to move OK. I bled the system as well as I could, and now I have
a spongy pedal that will lock up the rears if pushed hard enough. The
fronts took up the slack to the discs, but they still don't actually
provide any braking power at all. Does this mean the fronts were not
bled well enough? I used a bleeding kit and emptied about three ounces
of fluid from each caliper, and I saw no bubbles. Is it possible that
just the front half of my master cylinder is shot?
TIA,
Jon Mistchenko
weak front brakes
weak front brakes
Hi Jon;
You may have swelling brake lines in the front system. Older brake
lines can have this problem, where as the pressure will balloon the lines
instead of pushing hard enough to cause friction on the discs. Then again,
one of the pistons in your front calipers could be stuck making it twice as
tough to move the whole caliper enough to slow the vehicle, this is why
there is a booster in the circuit.
But if the calipers are fresh and working well then I would look at the
brake lines.
This is where there is some investigative work is necessary. Search the
local brake shops for companies they use to have brake lines remanufactured.
Or shoes or pads resurfaced, they will be glad to see you walk through their
front door. Yes, you may be charged a bit more, but then you are only
getting one set done. That's quite a company that will do one at a time and
keep the price down. Many of us have these companies around us and we use
them. If you would like their address that's not a problem. However, you
may have the same capabilities in your town and it's less than the price of
shipping back and forth from here in San Diego. And if the fear is the
shop, check them out with the BBB, most companies don't stay around long
without being on their list.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Jonathan Mistchenko and
Sarah Reeves
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 10:00 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] weak front brakes
I have been swapping parts between my good AN600 and my parts car in an
effort to get the brakes to work. I started with a fairly firm pedal
and I could lock up at least one rear wheel if I stepped on the pedal
hard enough. I removed the brake booster but nothing changed. I
greased and cleaned the calipers and added new pins, and the pistons
seems to move OK. I bled the system as well as I could, and now I have
a spongy pedal that will lock up the rears if pushed hard enough. The
fronts took up the slack to the discs, but they still don't actually
provide any braking power at all. Does this mean the fronts were not
bled well enough? I used a bleeding kit and emptied about three ounces
of fluid from each caliper, and I saw no bubbles. Is it possible that
just the front half of my master cylinder is shot?
TIA,
Jon Mistchenko
You may have swelling brake lines in the front system. Older brake
lines can have this problem, where as the pressure will balloon the lines
instead of pushing hard enough to cause friction on the discs. Then again,
one of the pistons in your front calipers could be stuck making it twice as
tough to move the whole caliper enough to slow the vehicle, this is why
there is a booster in the circuit.
But if the calipers are fresh and working well then I would look at the
brake lines.
This is where there is some investigative work is necessary. Search the
local brake shops for companies they use to have brake lines remanufactured.
Or shoes or pads resurfaced, they will be glad to see you walk through their
front door. Yes, you may be charged a bit more, but then you are only
getting one set done. That's quite a company that will do one at a time and
keep the price down. Many of us have these companies around us and we use
them. If you would like their address that's not a problem. However, you
may have the same capabilities in your town and it's less than the price of
shipping back and forth from here in San Diego. And if the fear is the
shop, check them out with the BBB, most companies don't stay around long
without being on their list.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Jonathan Mistchenko and
Sarah Reeves
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 10:00 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] weak front brakes
I have been swapping parts between my good AN600 and my parts car in an
effort to get the brakes to work. I started with a fairly firm pedal
and I could lock up at least one rear wheel if I stepped on the pedal
hard enough. I removed the brake booster but nothing changed. I
greased and cleaned the calipers and added new pins, and the pistons
seems to move OK. I bled the system as well as I could, and now I have
a spongy pedal that will lock up the rears if pushed hard enough. The
fronts took up the slack to the discs, but they still don't actually
provide any braking power at all. Does this mean the fronts were not
bled well enough? I used a bleeding kit and emptied about three ounces
of fluid from each caliper, and I saw no bubbles. Is it possible that
just the front half of my master cylinder is shot?
TIA,
Jon Mistchenko
Re: weak front brakes
9 times out of 10 the reason for low braking performance is the
rotors are rusty or glazed, sand that stuff off or have the rotors
surfaced. The brake booster must be functional, removing the booster
will cause a hard pedal. Locking up the brakes doesn't happen often
with good or bad brakes. If the brakes are adjusted incorrectly or
if the rear shoes have brake fluid or grease on them the brakes may
lock or just slide on. It's the front brakes that stop the car. Very
rarely the rear shoes get worn. They work nicely to function as an
emergency brake or parking brake.
I sell new rubber brake lines and if I get enough people to buy
stainless braided, I will order another 10 sets, but it takes 1 year
to sell 10 sets and my cash output is $500.00.
Miles
rotors are rusty or glazed, sand that stuff off or have the rotors
surfaced. The brake booster must be functional, removing the booster
will cause a hard pedal. Locking up the brakes doesn't happen often
with good or bad brakes. If the brakes are adjusted incorrectly or
if the rear shoes have brake fluid or grease on them the brakes may
lock or just slide on. It's the front brakes that stop the car. Very
rarely the rear shoes get worn. They work nicely to function as an
emergency brake or parking brake.
I sell new rubber brake lines and if I get enough people to buy
stainless braided, I will order another 10 sets, but it takes 1 year
to sell 10 sets and my cash output is $500.00.
Miles