Some may dissagree with my methods, but this works well and if you are
dismantling many heads will save hours of time. I use an old spark
plug socket, 13/16" and a hammer to remove the spring retainer cotters
on Honda 600 heads.
Place the head flat on your work bench or floor. Place the socket on
the valve keeper keeping your finges clear from under the socket. Hold
the socket and the spring together and hit the socket with a hammer.
One good smack will compress the spring and at the same time pop out
the cotters.
I have never damaged a valve doing this, sometimes the cotters fly
out, but usually they fly up inside the socket. I use a cam action
spring compressor to reassemble the valves into the heads as it is a
one step operation. I got mine from some import company for $10.00 and
have been using it for 20 years. I have the factory compressor tool
also, but it take coordination and sometimes slips off the spring.
Miles
Valve Springs/Valves Removal
Re: Valve Springs/Valves Removal
Hi Miles;
You're right, a hammer was not my choice of tools for this job. Really.
Bill
You're right, a hammer was not my choice of tools for this job. Really.
Bill
Re: Valve Springs/Valves Removal 2
The hammer and socket method was taught to me by a factory Honda
trained mechanic. They must use it somewhere. It just compresses the
spring fast and surprises the lil keepers outta their homes!
Miles
trained mechanic. They must use it somewhere. It just compresses the
spring fast and surprises the lil keepers outta their homes!
Miles
Honda 600 latest in electrical problems - think safety
Harry Lineback and I had a problem with a AN600 this weekend I thought was
worth sharing.
Situation: The 72 AN600 was running but had a oil burning problem.
Trouble shooting indicated oil getting past the rings. Engine was removed
and cylinders/pistons were replaced. Engine was reinstalled, but, then would
not start.
Symptoms: 1. The battery discharged in minutes.
Recharged the battery and, the battery was new.
2. The Starter dragged, everything
looked ok, but removed the electrode end of the solenoid and cleaned the
contacts.
3. While trying to start the engine,
wisps of smoke came from the ground wire leading to the stator brushes.
Correction: 1. We pulled the wire harness connecting the
brushes, starter and stator to the voltage regulator and ignition harness.
Unwrapped all the wires and repaired the ground wire connection which had
melted, but really didn't show any wear or indication any of the wires
caused the problem.
2. Next we pulled the brushes from
the stator, here we found more wire insulation melting on the Negative side
of the brush assembly. The rubber gasket was warn away and the wire
connection to the negative side had touched the engine case causing a short
in the system.
3. The Stator Brush Assembly was the
problem. Years ago the negative wire had been repaired on the brush
assembly, which although good at the time had caused some insulation
problems. And, while removing or replacing the engine further problems were
caused to the negative wire on the brush assembly which lead to it grounding
out. Repair was to rebuild the brush unit taking care not to cause a short
in the system.
End Result: Car started on first try, starter worked great and plenty of
power.
Note of Caution: All the wires on the Honda 600 cars are getting older
which in this case caused the negative lead to ground out. Rule of thumb,
When ever there is a problem with electrical wires it's best to completely
renew the wires. If correcting electrical problems is new to you; There is
an article in the 1982 October issue of Special Interest Autos (SIA# 71)
from Hemmings Motor News publications, on how to Rebuild a Wire Loom. The
article may still be had by going to www.hemmings.com and sending them an
e-mail requesting a reprint. I have had them bring up old files before. Or
go to www.eastwood.com where there are a number of restoration project help
files included with their products. Also, www.jcwhitney.com has an
extensive How-To book shelf, one "Automotive Electrical Handbook" which
gives a number of alternatives to the old wire problem. Just to name a few.
Safety Tip:
The least that can happen is melted insulation, the worst is a fire in the
electrical system which can start hours after the car is parked in the
garage for the night. If you are having problems with your electrical
system, disconnect the battery until you can work on it again.
Have Fun
Bill
worth sharing.
Situation: The 72 AN600 was running but had a oil burning problem.
Trouble shooting indicated oil getting past the rings. Engine was removed
and cylinders/pistons were replaced. Engine was reinstalled, but, then would
not start.
Symptoms: 1. The battery discharged in minutes.
Recharged the battery and, the battery was new.
2. The Starter dragged, everything
looked ok, but removed the electrode end of the solenoid and cleaned the
contacts.
3. While trying to start the engine,
wisps of smoke came from the ground wire leading to the stator brushes.
Correction: 1. We pulled the wire harness connecting the
brushes, starter and stator to the voltage regulator and ignition harness.
Unwrapped all the wires and repaired the ground wire connection which had
melted, but really didn't show any wear or indication any of the wires
caused the problem.
2. Next we pulled the brushes from
the stator, here we found more wire insulation melting on the Negative side
of the brush assembly. The rubber gasket was warn away and the wire
connection to the negative side had touched the engine case causing a short
in the system.
3. The Stator Brush Assembly was the
problem. Years ago the negative wire had been repaired on the brush
assembly, which although good at the time had caused some insulation
problems. And, while removing or replacing the engine further problems were
caused to the negative wire on the brush assembly which lead to it grounding
out. Repair was to rebuild the brush unit taking care not to cause a short
in the system.
End Result: Car started on first try, starter worked great and plenty of
power.
Note of Caution: All the wires on the Honda 600 cars are getting older
which in this case caused the negative lead to ground out. Rule of thumb,
When ever there is a problem with electrical wires it's best to completely
renew the wires. If correcting electrical problems is new to you; There is
an article in the 1982 October issue of Special Interest Autos (SIA# 71)
from Hemmings Motor News publications, on how to Rebuild a Wire Loom. The
article may still be had by going to www.hemmings.com and sending them an
e-mail requesting a reprint. I have had them bring up old files before. Or
go to www.eastwood.com where there are a number of restoration project help
files included with their products. Also, www.jcwhitney.com has an
extensive How-To book shelf, one "Automotive Electrical Handbook" which
gives a number of alternatives to the old wire problem. Just to name a few.
Safety Tip:
The least that can happen is melted insulation, the worst is a fire in the
electrical system which can start hours after the car is parked in the
garage for the night. If you are having problems with your electrical
system, disconnect the battery until you can work on it again.
Have Fun
Bill
Re: Valve Springs/Valves Removal 2
I understand, but, what about striking hardened steel against hardened
steel. Yea know the 3/8 in extension that won't go into the socket anymore
after it's been hammered into a no-longer useful tool. But, as I said
earlier, it does work, just not my choice. see URL
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
Bill
steel. Yea know the 3/8 in extension that won't go into the socket anymore
after it's been hammered into a no-longer useful tool. But, as I said
earlier, it does work, just not my choice. see URL
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
Bill
Re: Valve Springs/Valves Removal 2
Ive used the socket hammer method a bunch of time, but then decided
to buy the tool, yes you can take the keepers out with the socket
method, but you still have to put them back in later. Somethings
can be done with shorcuts, but in the long run using the tool that
is made for it will be worth it.
http://www.infinkcdesigns.com/600forum
to buy the tool, yes you can take the keepers out with the socket
method, but you still have to put them back in later. Somethings
can be done with shorcuts, but in the long run using the tool that
is made for it will be worth it.
http://www.infinkcdesigns.com/600forum