carb or fuel problem

[kuranhonda]

Maybe someone has encountered this problem and can give me some tips.
My 72 600 coupe sat for quite a few years and had varnish in the carb
and fuel tank. I dismantled the carb and rinsed it out with carb
cleaner, plus drained and flushed the gas tank. With new gas, it
started right up. However, it doesn't want to idle without the choke
being partially on. I've checked the points, point gap and timing,
the fuel flow seems fine, and it seems to run OK except at idle. When
the choke opens, it acts like it isn't getting any fuel and the
engine dies. Adjusting the idle mixture screw on the carb doesn't
seem to make any significant difference. The shop manual says to move
the spring on the choke to increase the tension - did that, and it
helped but didn't fix it. My guess is that its something in the carb -
possibly soak it overnight in a good cleaning solvent?
Any suggestions are welcome. The car only has 33,000 miles on it, but
it has been stored and not driven for most of the last 15 years.
Another nagging problem from the prolonged storage is the master
cylinder, which got gummed up from evaporated brake fluid (my fault).
Anyway, I had it sleeved because it leaked at the push rod end (in
the interior). Fixed that, but now it wants to leak at the top where
the brake lines attach - either from the threads on the lines, or
possibly around the washer and nut that are on the top of the
cylinder where the lines attach. I'm not sure why having it sleeved
would affect the connections at the top of the cylinder. I've
reinstalled it several times, with the same result.
Thanks
Ray

[riceburner006]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Hamman"
wrote:

> Maybe someone has encountered this problem and can give me some tips.
> My 72 600 coupe sat for quite a few years and had varnish in the carb
> and fuel tank. I dismantled the carb and rinsed it out with carb
> cleaner, plus drained and flushed the gas tank. With new gas, it
> started right up. However, it doesn't want to idle without the choke
> being partially on. I've checked the points, point gap and timing,
> the fuel flow seems fine, and it seems to run OK except at idle. When
> the choke opens, it acts like it isn't getting any fuel and the
> engine dies. Adjusting the idle mixture screw on the carb doesn't
> seem to make any significant difference. The shop manual says to move
> the spring on the choke to increase the tension - did that, and it
> helped but didn't fix it. My guess is that its something in the carb -
> possibly soak it overnight in a good cleaning solvent?
> Any suggestions are welcome. The car only has 33,000 miles on it, but
> it has been stored and not driven for most of the last 15 years.
> Another nagging problem from the prolonged storage is the master
> cylinder, which got gummed up from evaporated brake fluid (my fault).
> Anyway, I had it sleeved because it leaked at the push rod end (in
> the interior). Fixed that, but now it wants to leak at the top where
> the brake lines attach - either from the threads on the lines, or
> possibly around the washer and nut that are on the top of the
> cylinder where the lines attach. I'm not sure why having it sleeved
> would affect the connections at the top of the cylinder. I've
> reinstalled it several times, with the same result.
> Thanks
> Ray

I would bet on a clogged idle jet. It's under the black rubber
plug,and is screwed in to the body. Take it out and clean it with a
small wire. A piece of a wire from a wire brush should work.

[dealadayray]

Hi Ray;
Pull your anti Dieseling Solenoid and look at the pin (coming from inside
the solenoid) with the key off, then turn the key to on, not start, just on.
Now look at the pin if it is shorter, or going in, then it is ok, if not
then check to see if the wires are attached and the ground wire is connected
and free of corrosion. Try the test again.
Bill

[kuranhonda]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "riceburner006"
wrote:

> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Ray Hamman"
> wrote:
> > Maybe someone has encountered this problem and can give me some
> tips.
> > My 72 600 coupe sat for quite a few years and had varnish in the
> carb
> > and fuel tank. I dismantled the carb and rinsed it out with carb
> > cleaner, plus drained and flushed the gas tank. With new gas, it
> > started right up. However, it doesn't want to idle without the
> choke
> > being partially on. I've checked the points, point gap and timing,
> > the fuel flow seems fine, and it seems to run OK except at idle.
> When
> > the choke opens, it acts like it isn't getting any fuel and the
> > engine dies. Adjusting the idle mixture screw on the carb doesn't
> > seem to make any significant difference. The shop manual says to
> move
> > the spring on the choke to increase the tension - did that, and it
> > helped but didn't fix it. My guess is that its something in the
> carb -
> > possibly soak it overnight in a good cleaning solvent?
> > Any suggestions are welcome. The car only has 33,000 miles on it,
> but
> > it has been stored and not driven for most of the last 15 years.
> > Another nagging problem from the prolonged storage is the master
> > cylinder, which got gummed up from evaporated brake fluid (my
> fault).
> > Anyway, I had it sleeved because it leaked at the push rod end (in
> > the interior). Fixed that, but now it wants to leak at the top
> where
> > the brake lines attach - either from the threads on the lines, or
> > possibly around the washer and nut that are on the top of the
> > cylinder where the lines attach. I'm not sure why having it
> sleeved
> > would affect the connections at the top of the cylinder. I've
> > reinstalled it several times, with the same result.
> > Thanks
> > Ray
> I would bet on a clogged idle jet. It's under the black rubber
> plug,and is screwed in to the body. Take it out and clean it with a
> small wire. A piece of a wire from a wire brush should work.