Before I attempted to reassmble my engine, I inspected everything
closely. At last I think I found my problem. While looking in the
crank case and lower chain gear, I noticed an unusual shaped object.
It was about the size marble, was all chewed up looking, and seemed
to rotate around when I push it with a screwdriver. It is located
dead center of the crack case, just bellow the front of the crank
chain gear (the chain has been rubbing on it). What is this thing
down there???? Is it the mangled head of a bolt? It's looking like I
have to pull my engine and tear down the crack case, because I can't
get to it with the crank in the way. Thanks for the help on the valve
timing, I will use it soon.
Colin
Ticking sound found
Re: Ticking sound found------------WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Colin - That thing you found is the lower guide that keeps the chain
from jumping off the crankshaft sprocket. It is aluminum and is
peined into the bottom bearing cradle. If it broke off or is chewed
up it's no big deal. It's like tonsils or an appendix - not that
important.
MiLeS
from jumping off the crankshaft sprocket. It is aluminum and is
peined into the bottom bearing cradle. If it broke off or is chewed
up it's no big deal. It's like tonsils or an appendix - not that
important.
MiLeS
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Ticking sound found
Hi Colin;
The knob in the middle at the bottom of the center bearing holder is to
keep the cam chain from falling off the center sprocket of the crankshaft.
Normally they are chewed up because the cam chain is stretched and hits it
as you can see. If you can turn it to show a smooth edge toward the chain
then to so. file the rough edges so more metal chips do not come off in the
future.
As to timing the engine, Miles is correct when he says it is easy to
have your timing mark 180 degrees out. I have found it is just as easy to
fit the pistons into the cylinders first, then use two vice grips on the
front outer two studs and clamp them so the cylinder will come down to where
the rods are at the exact top when they are centered to the piston pins and
slide them through. The fit the cir clips on the outer ends (having the
inner clips already in place) remove the vice grips and the cylinder will
fall inplace. All the time have the pulley held right at Top Dead Center (.
Then fit the head and cambox (don't forget the two bolts in the rear of the
head one up and one down) place the cam under the cam chain and using the
left (drivers side) of the engine bearing cap move it into place so you can
see the notch in the cam between the cam bearing split see the attached
picture. pull up on the cam and see if it is notch is centered. If not
slip the end bearing off and turn the cam back or forward until it does.
Now the crankshaft has been held at TDC so the pistons are in the correct
position, the cam is centered on the end mark slip the end bearing off again
and assemble the rockers noting the small dimple at the outside edge of the
end on each of the rocker arm shafts. This dimple is supposed to be at he
top when positioning the rockers on the shafts. Place the end bearings on
Left side first and then the right, this is because there will be some
resistance when it is being slid into position and the shaft going through
the distributor is easy to lift. Don't use a hammer to get them into place,
they should slide on.
Now if your using the old cam chain (which is really not the right thing
to do, but if you have no other chain and your chain is still good) then
the notch at the left end of the cam will not be centered on the split in
the cam bearing. So, always line it up so the notch is in the split but
toward the rear of the engine, not the front. with the timing mark on the
crankshaft pulley at TDC.
Other problems you want to watch for is the small pin placed in the cam
at the distributor end which causes the lobes and weights to the distributor
to rotate. If you lose this it will mean your engine will not start. Also
look at the seal once the cam shaft is in position and the distributor
bearing is in place. The rubber seal can flip and cause a really bad oil
leak right onto the points.
Anyway, I have attached a note on how to set up your timing after you
have changed out your cam chain and it works for both cam change and engine
rebuild.
Bill
The knob in the middle at the bottom of the center bearing holder is to
keep the cam chain from falling off the center sprocket of the crankshaft.
Normally they are chewed up because the cam chain is stretched and hits it
as you can see. If you can turn it to show a smooth edge toward the chain
then to so. file the rough edges so more metal chips do not come off in the
future.
As to timing the engine, Miles is correct when he says it is easy to
have your timing mark 180 degrees out. I have found it is just as easy to
fit the pistons into the cylinders first, then use two vice grips on the
front outer two studs and clamp them so the cylinder will come down to where
the rods are at the exact top when they are centered to the piston pins and
slide them through. The fit the cir clips on the outer ends (having the
inner clips already in place) remove the vice grips and the cylinder will
fall inplace. All the time have the pulley held right at Top Dead Center (.
Then fit the head and cambox (don't forget the two bolts in the rear of the
head one up and one down) place the cam under the cam chain and using the
left (drivers side) of the engine bearing cap move it into place so you can
see the notch in the cam between the cam bearing split see the attached
picture. pull up on the cam and see if it is notch is centered. If not
slip the end bearing off and turn the cam back or forward until it does.
Now the crankshaft has been held at TDC so the pistons are in the correct
position, the cam is centered on the end mark slip the end bearing off again
and assemble the rockers noting the small dimple at the outside edge of the
end on each of the rocker arm shafts. This dimple is supposed to be at he
top when positioning the rockers on the shafts. Place the end bearings on
Left side first and then the right, this is because there will be some
resistance when it is being slid into position and the shaft going through
the distributor is easy to lift. Don't use a hammer to get them into place,
they should slide on.
Now if your using the old cam chain (which is really not the right thing
to do, but if you have no other chain and your chain is still good) then
the notch at the left end of the cam will not be centered on the split in
the cam bearing. So, always line it up so the notch is in the split but
toward the rear of the engine, not the front. with the timing mark on the
crankshaft pulley at TDC.
Other problems you want to watch for is the small pin placed in the cam
at the distributor end which causes the lobes and weights to the distributor
to rotate. If you lose this it will mean your engine will not start. Also
look at the seal once the cam shaft is in position and the distributor
bearing is in place. The rubber seal can flip and cause a really bad oil
leak right onto the points.
Anyway, I have attached a note on how to set up your timing after you
have changed out your cam chain and it works for both cam change and engine
rebuild.
Bill
Re: Ticking sound found------------WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow, you guys just kept me from ripping into my engine just to find a
chain guide. Man, today I took the engine out thinking I needed to
repair that "bolt in the case". I guess I can drop it back in. I
can't thank every one in this forum enough. Your wisdom is priceless.
chain guide. Man, today I took the engine out thinking I needed to
repair that "bolt in the case". I guess I can drop it back in. I
can't thank every one in this forum enough. Your wisdom is priceless.
Telephone beats email 90\%
A telephone call is faster than an email, anyone who needs immediate
help (genuine help, not how often should I change the air in my
tires) Just call me. 24 years of Honda 600 experience - Miles 831-335-
4647 eves. XXX-XXX-XXXX cell, days & eves when I am online - until
midnight. If you have caller ID blocking and you call my cell phone,
I probably won't answer it.
My new Honda 600 website is in the works as well. Being built by
Vermont Programmers (www.hondabeat.com) will be up soon to replace my
current one at www.600miles.com
Miles
help (genuine help, not how often should I change the air in my
tires) Just call me. 24 years of Honda 600 experience - Miles 831-335-
4647 eves. XXX-XXX-XXXX cell, days & eves when I am online - until
midnight. If you have caller ID blocking and you call my cell phone,
I probably won't answer it.
My new Honda 600 website is in the works as well. Being built by
Vermont Programmers (www.hondabeat.com) will be up soon to replace my
current one at www.600miles.com
Miles