Broken off spark plug - any help appreciate

[honda600wiz]

Hi everyone! I'm sending this to all the groups so I apologize if some of
you get duplicates of this message.
A friend and I acquired this weekend, two coupes from a barn where they had
been sitting for 20 years! One is a parts car for the other, so I think by
and large we are going to be in great shape with our restoration...
We had a rough start, however, and I'm wondering if any of you have
thoughts you might share with us to resolve a problem. During removal of
the spark plugs, the plug on right bank (left side if you're
standing in front of car, the plug that's under the points/condenser
compartment), broke off almost flush at the head. The electrode came out
with the plug, and you can see straight down into cylinder. All that's
left is the plug sleeve and the bent metal part at the bottom of the plug
(still attached to plug sleeve). We were thinking of putting an oily rag
on a wire down into the
cylinder to catch the swarf and then use a small dremel tool to try and
grind down enough of the plug sleeve to bend it in on itself and remove it.
Then remove the oily rag through the plug hole (hopefully with most metal
shavings attached). Then open oil drain plug and flush hole with gasoline
and crank the engine over with both plugs out to blow out any remaining
metal shaving swarf through the plug hole.
Our only other option (and it's a BIGGIE) is to remove the cylinder
head. Biggie because the exhaust header studs look completely rusted
on...would be a major bear to get off. Plus, I'd need a full top end
gasket set.
Any one with insights PLEASE help!
Thanks in advance.
Doug
P.S. you can email me directly if you prefer to
mailto:dstark@...
Douglas Stark
STARK CONSULTANTS, INC.
One Memorial Square, Whitinsville, MA 01588
http://www.starkconsult.com XXX-XXX-XXXX

[magnetodyne]

You need to check with the Tool guys. Snap On ,etc. They have a
specal EZout for just this problem. Rob.

[Harry Lineback]

there is a tool made to be used to remove plugs that
are broken off in the cylinder head. contact your
local NAPA dealer and explain the problem to them and
they can get you a large 'easy-out' [either helix or a
square one].
plug the plug area with a wooden dowel or some
material to make it somewhat water-tight and then soak
the bad spark plug with a large amount of penetrating
oil for 36 hours [keep refilling the cavity as you
loose liquid]. drive the easy-out into the plug and
HOPEFULLY the plug will 'back-out'.
i did this a long time ago when i was helping restore
a 1913 model T Ford with a 'frozen plug'. Up until
that time i was NOT a believer in penetrating oil BUT
after watching what happened i KNOW it will work.
patience is the 'key' when working with penetrating
oil.
good luck.
doug, you will probably get two copies of this msg
because i sent one to your personal e-dress.
--- Doug Stark wrote:

> Hi everyone! I'm sending this to all the groups so
> I apologize if some of
> you get duplicates of this message.
> A friend and I acquired this weekend, two coupes
> from a barn where they had
> been sitting for 20 years! One is a parts car for
> the other, so I think by
> and large we are going to be in great shape with our
> restoration...
> We had a rough start, however, and I'm wondering if
> any of you have
> thoughts you might share with us to resolve a
> problem. During removal of
> the spark plugs, the plug on right bank (left side
> if you're
> standing in front of car, the plug that's under the
> points/condenser
> compartment), broke off almost flush at the head.
> The electrode came out
> with the plug, and you can see straight down into
> cylinder. All that's
> left is the plug sleeve and the bent metal part at
> the bottom of the plug
> (still attached to plug sleeve). We were thinking
> of putting an oily rag
> on a wire down into the
> cylinder to catch the swarf and then use a small
> dremel tool to try and
> grind down enough of the plug sleeve to bend it in
> on itself and remove it.
> Then remove the oily rag through the plug hole
> (hopefully with most metal
> shavings attached). Then open oil drain plug and
> flush hole with gasoline
> and crank the engine over with both plugs out to
> blow out any remaining
> metal shaving swarf through the plug hole.
> Our only other option (and it's a BIGGIE) is to
> remove the cylinder
> head. Biggie because the exhaust header studs look
> completely rusted
> on...would be a major bear to get off. Plus, I'd
> need a full top end
> gasket set.
> Any one with insights PLEASE help!
> Thanks in advance.
> Doug
> P.S. you can email me directly if you prefer to
> mailto:
dstark@...
> Douglas Stark
> STARK CONSULTANTS, INC.
> One Memorial Square, Whitinsville, MA 01588
http://www.starkconsult.com
XXX-XXX-XXXX
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about
> buying
> or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360� Tours,
> Research,
> Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA ... /4zjxlB/TM

--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Harry Lineback
XXX-XXX-XXXX

[nicholas_riopelle2001]

--- Doug,
Harry has the right fix, you will need an easy-out, and a lot of
patients. If the original threads are bad, then you will have to go
back down to a NAPA store and get a (heli-coil) insert to repair the
threads. Only other solution is to pull the head.
Nick
In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, Harry Lineback
wrote:

> there is a tool made to be used to remove plugs that
> are broken off in the cylinder head. contact your
> local NAPA dealer and explain the problem to them and
> they can get you a large 'easy-out' [either helix or a
> square one].
> plug the plug area with a wooden dowel or some
> material to make it somewhat water-tight and then soak
> the bad spark plug with a large amount of penetrating
> oil for 36 hours [keep refilling the cavity as you
> loose liquid]. drive the easy-out into the plug and
> HOPEFULLY the plug will 'back-out'.
> i did this a long time ago when i was helping restore
> a 1913 model T Ford with a 'frozen plug'. Up until
> that time i was NOT a believer in penetrating oil BUT
> after watching what happened i KNOW it will work.
> patience is the 'key' when working with penetrating
> oil.
> good luck.
> doug, you will probably get two copies of this msg
> because i sent one to your personal e-dress.
> --- Doug Stark wrote:
> > Hi everyone! I'm sending this to all the groups so
> > I apologize if some of
> > you get duplicates of this message.
> > A friend and I acquired this weekend, two coupes
> > from a barn where they had
> > been sitting for 20 years! One is a parts car for
> > the other, so I think by
> > and large we are going to be in great shape with our
> > restoration...
> > We had a rough start, however, and I'm wondering if
> > any of you have
> > thoughts you might share with us to resolve a
> > problem. During removal of
> > the spark plugs, the plug on right bank (left side
> > if you're
> > standing in front of car, the plug that's under the
> > points/condenser
> > compartment), broke off almost flush at the head.
> > The electrode came out
> > with the plug, and you can see straight down into
> > cylinder. All that's
> > left is the plug sleeve and the bent metal part at
> > the bottom of the plug
> > (still attached to plug sleeve). We were thinking
> > of putting an oily rag
> > on a wire down into the
> > cylinder to catch the swarf and then use a small
> > dremel tool to try and
> > grind down enough of the plug sleeve to bend it in
> > on itself and remove it.
> > Then remove the oily rag through the plug hole
> > (hopefully with most metal
> > shavings attached). Then open oil drain plug and
> > flush hole with gasoline
> > and crank the engine over with both plugs out to
> > blow out any remaining
> > metal shaving swarf through the plug hole.
> > Our only other option (and it's a BIGGIE) is to
> > remove the cylinder
> > head. Biggie because the exhaust header studs look
> > completely rusted
> > on...would be a major bear to get off. Plus, I'd
> > need a full top end
> > gasket set.
> > Any one with insights PLEASE help!
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Doug
> > P.S. you can email me directly if you prefer to
> > mailto:dstark@c...
> > Douglas Stark
> > STARK CONSULTANTS, INC.
> > One Memorial Square, Whitinsville, MA 01588
http://www.starkconsult.com
XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > --------------------~-->
> > Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about
> > buying
> > or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360� Tours,
> > Research,
> > Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used
http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA ... /4zjxlB/TM
> -------------------------------------------------------------------- ~->