Gas Tank Removal 72 Coupe

[bobs600honda]

Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
Now, getting the tank out....
The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear to be a part of the tank?
Thanks for any info.
Bob

[Don B Laughton]

The gadget tray is the plastic panel below the rear quarter (side) window. As I recall, it lifts out after removing the window latch.   Just be careful not to let the window drop to the ground....ops!  Also,  be careful not to over tighten the latch screw or you will split the tab on the gadget tray Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 7, 2013, at 10:56 AM, "bobs600honda" wrote:
Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
Now, getting the tank out....
The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear to be a part of the tank?
Thanks for any info.
Bob

[Eric Geiger]

Sorry the last part of the subject didn't come through.   I see it now.
Here's what I can say. As I just did my tank over the last month.
Even though your gas looks clean when drained its a very good possibility that the tank is still very rusty.  Mine was clean looking but as soon as I shined a flashlight into the tank it was all rust.   There are pictures posted in my albums.
You need to take of the protective plate that costs the fuel fill line and fuel float wires.  It's on the drivers side of the car under the trunk Mat.  You'll have to remove the entire trunk lining and cover to access it along with the plastic cover on the drivers side by the rear seat latch release.
There are 6 bolts total to drop the tank. 3 near the front and 3 at the very rear.   Use caution on the rear ones as mine were bolts from the spare tire area trough the body and then the tank.  The nuts on the underside are held in by a welded on tab to keep the nut from spinning.   Mine were so rusted that the tabs broke off.  The only way to remove the bolts was to gently pull back the body panel that covers the gas tank under the rear bumper and grab the entire but and bracket with a large vise grips.
  It was a tough job due to this and if you don't use caution you can easily damage the body of your car.
My fuel level sender was also very rusty but it cleaned up nice with some brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush.   The gasket on the sender unit has to be installed in the correct orientation as the holes for the screws are not all equally spaced.
I sent my tank to a local shop who acid dipped it for 70$. They didn't recommend a dealer so I left the inside bare and just had the outside powder coated.   I've heard great things about the bill hirsch kit though.
The re install was definitely a 2 man job as I had a tough time getting the tank lined up properly from the underside while managing to get the fuel filler through the hole in the floor pan.
As for the ebrake cable you speak of I don't recall having to remove anything brake related.
Hope this helps let me know if you have more questions.
Eric J. Geiger
---------------------------------------
PRG Nocturne
XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
egeiger@...
www.prgnocturne.com

On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" wrote:
Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
Now, getting the tank out....
The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear to be a part of the tank?
Thanks for any info.
Bob

[Eric Geiger]

Do u have a coupe or sedan?
Eric J. Geiger
---------------------------------------
PRG Nocturne
XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
egeiger@...
www.prgnocturne.com

On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" wrote:
Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
Now, getting the tank out....
The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear to be a part of the tank?
Thanks for any info.
Bob

[Robert James]

Thanks alot Eric - I will start in on this first thing in the morning. �Also, I was looking at some stainless steel tubing ($50 for 20') to replace the existing line - good idea or waste of $$$?
Bob

On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 11:39 AM, Eric Geiger
�
> Sorry the last part of the subject didn't come through. � I see it now.
> Here's what I can say. As I just did my tank over the last month.
> Even though your gas looks clean when drained its a very good possibility that the tank is still very rusty. �Mine was clean looking but as soon as I shined a flashlight into the tank it was all rust. � There are pictures posted in my albums.
> You need to take of the protective plate that costs the fuel fill line and fuel float wires. �It's on the drivers side of the car under the trunk Mat. �You'll have to remove the entire trunk lining and cover to access it along with the plastic cover on > the drivers side by the rear seat latch release.
> There are 6 bolts total to drop the tank. 3 near the front and 3 at the very rear. � Use caution on the rear ones as mine were bolts from the spare tire area trough the body and then the tank. �The nuts on the underside are held in by a welded on tab to > keep the nut from spinning. � Mine were so rusted that the tabs broke off. �The only way to remove the bolts was to gently pull back the body panel that covers the gas tank under the rear bumper and grab the entire but and bracket with a large vise grips.
> � It was a tough job due to this and if you don't use caution you can easily damage the body of your car.
> My fuel level sender was also very rusty but it cleaned up nice with some brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush. � The gasket on the sender unit has to be installed in the correct orientation as the holes for the screws are not all equally spaced.
> I sent my tank to a local shop who acid dipped it for 70$. They didn't recommend a dealer so I left the inside bare and just had the outside powder coated. � I've heard great things about the bill hirsch kit though.�
> The re install was definitely a 2 man job as I had a tough time getting the tank lined up properly from the underside while managing to get the fuel filler through the hole in the floor pan.
> As for the ebrake cable you speak of I don't recall having to remove anything brake related. �
> Hope this helps let me know if you have more questions.�
> Eric J. Geiger
> ---------------------------------------
> PRG Nocturne
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> phone
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> fax
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> mobile
> egeiger@...
> www.prgnocturne.com
> On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" rjamesblues@...
> > wrote:
> > �
> > Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
> > Now, getting the tank out....
> > The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what > > type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
> > Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear > > to be a part of the tank?
> > Thanks for any info.
> > Bob

[Eric Geiger]

all my lines were good so i didn't have to replace any.  i did manage to nick one of the red hoses on the fuel pump though working on a bother project but it was close enough that i just trimmed the hose and used a tighter clamp.
sorry i can't be of help with that.
Don mentioned something about the window.  i didn't have to take my window out to get the panel off.   when i did get the protective cover plate off i found that the leads going to my fuel gauge sender unit were all frayed and corroded so i made new ones with some 16g wire and some butt/spade ends
Eric J. Geiger
PRG Nocturne
XXX-XXX-XXXX  phone
XXX-XXX-XXXX  fax
XXX-XXX-XXXX  mobile
egeiger@...
www.prgnocturne.com

On Jun 7, 2013, at 1:45 PM, Robert James wrote:
> Thanks alot Eric - I will start in on this first thing in the morning.  Also, I was looking at some stainless steel tubing ($50 for 20') to replace the existing line - good idea or waste of $$$?
> Bob
> On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 11:39 AM, Eric Geiger
> egeiger@...
> wrote:
> > Sorry the last part of the subject didn't come through.   I see it now.
> > Here's what I can say. As I just did my tank over the last month.
> > Even though your gas looks clean when drained its a very good possibility that the tank is still very rusty.  Mine was clean looking but as soon as I shined a flashlight into the tank it was all rust.   There are pictures posted in my albums.
> > You need to take of the protective plate that costs the fuel fill line and fuel float wires.  It's on the drivers side of the car under the trunk Mat.  You'll have to remove the entire trunk lining and cover to access it along with the plastic cover on > > the drivers side by the rear seat latch release.
> > There are 6 bolts total to drop the tank. 3 near the front and 3 at the very rear.   Use caution on the rear ones as mine were bolts from the spare tire area trough the body and then the tank.  The nuts on the underside are held in by a welded on tab to > > keep the nut from spinning.   Mine were so rusted that the tabs broke off.  The only way to remove the bolts was to gently pull back the body panel that covers the gas tank under the rear bumper and grab the entire but and bracket with a large vise grips.
> >   It was a tough job due to this and if you don't use caution you can easily damage the body of your car.
> > My fuel level sender was also very rusty but it cleaned up nice with some brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush.   The gasket on the sender unit has to be installed in the correct orientation as the holes for the screws are not all equally spaced.
> > I sent my tank to a local shop who acid dipped it for 70$. They didn't recommend a dealer so I left the inside bare and just had the outside powder coated.   I've heard great things about the bill hirsch kit though.
> > The re install was definitely a 2 man job as I had a tough time getting the tank lined up properly from the underside while managing to get the fuel filler through the hole in the floor pan.
> > As for the ebrake cable you speak of I don't recall having to remove anything brake related.
> > Hope this helps let me know if you have more questions.
> > Eric J. Geiger
> > ---------------------------------------
> > PRG Nocturne
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > phone
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > fax
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > mobile
> > egeiger@...
> > www.prgnocturne.com
> > On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" > rjamesblues@...
> > > wrote:
> > > Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
> > > Now, getting the tank out....
> > > The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what > > > type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
> > > Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear > > > to be a part of the tank?
> > > Thanks for any info.
> > > Bob

[Robert James]

Coupe

On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 11:40 AM, Eric Geiger
�
> Do u have a coupe or sedan?
> Eric J. Geiger
> ---------------------------------------
> PRG Nocturne
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> phone
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> fax
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> mobile
> egeiger@...
> www.prgnocturne.com
> On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" rjamesblues@...
> > wrote:
> > �
> > Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
> > Now, getting the tank out....
> > The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what > > type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
> > Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear > > to be a part of the tank?
> > Thanks for any info.
> > Bob

[Robert James]

Okay. �The lines don't look so good on the outside, but may be just fine on the inside; there are no leaks! �Just wondering how much rust and crud is in them. �Replacing may be more trouble than its worth.

On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Eric Geiger
�
> all my lines were good so i didn't have to replace any. �i did manage to nick one of the red hoses on the fuel pump though working on a bother project but it was close enough that i just trimmed the hose and used a tighter clamp.
> sorry i can't be of help with that. �
> Don mentioned something about the window. �i didn't have to take my window out to get the panel off. � when i did get the protective cover plate off i found that the leads going to my fuel gauge sender unit were all frayed and corroded so i made new ones > with some 16g wire and some butt/spade ends
> Eric J. Geiger
> PRG Nocturne
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> �phone
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> �fax
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> �mobile
> egeiger@...
> www.prgnocturne.com
> On Jun 7, 2013, at 1:45 PM, Robert James wrote:
> > �
> > Thanks alot Eric - I will start in on this first thing in the morning. �Also, I was looking at some stainless steel tubing ($50 for 20') to replace the existing line - good idea or waste of $$$?
> > Bob
> > On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 11:39 AM, Eric Geiger
> > > egeiger@...
> > wrote:
> > > �
> > > Sorry the last part of the subject didn't come through. � I see it now.
> > > Here's what I can say. As I just did my tank over the last month.
> > > Even though your gas looks clean when drained its a very good possibility that the tank is still very rusty. �Mine was clean looking but as soon as I shined a flashlight into the tank it was all rust. � There are pictures posted in my albums.
> > > You need to take of the protective plate that costs the fuel fill line and fuel float wires. �It's on the drivers side of the car under the trunk Mat. �You'll have to remove the entire trunk lining and cover to access it along with the plastic cover on > > > the drivers side by the rear seat latch release.
> > > There are 6 bolts total to drop the tank. 3 near the front and 3 at the very rear. � Use caution on the rear ones as mine were bolts from the spare tire area trough the body and then the tank. �The nuts on the underside are held in by a welded on tab to > > > keep the nut from spinning. � Mine were so rusted that the tabs broke off. �The only way to remove the bolts was to gently pull back the body panel that covers the gas tank under the rear bumper and grab the entire but and bracket with a large vise grips.
> > > � It was a tough job due to this and if you don't use caution you can easily damage the body of your car.
> > > My fuel level sender was also very rusty but it cleaned up nice with some brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush. � The gasket on the sender unit has to be installed in the correct orientation as the holes for the screws are not all equally spaced.
> > > I sent my tank to a local shop who acid dipped it for 70$. They didn't recommend a dealer so I left the inside bare and just had the outside powder coated. � I've heard great things about the bill hirsch kit though.�
> > > The re install was definitely a 2 man job as I had a tough time getting the tank lined up properly from the underside while managing to get the fuel filler through the hole in the floor pan.
> > > As for the ebrake cable you speak of I don't recall having to remove anything brake related. �
> > > Hope this helps let me know if you have more questions.�
> > > Eric J. Geiger
> > > ---------------------------------------
> > > PRG Nocturne
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > > phone
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > > fax
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > > mobile
> > > egeiger@...
> > > www.prgnocturne.com
> > > On Jun 7, 2013, at 12:56 PM, "bobs600honda" > > rjamesblues@...
> > > > wrote:
> > > > �
> > > > Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
> > > > Now, getting the tank out....
> > > > The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what > > > > type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
> > > > Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear > > > > to be a part of the tank?
> > > > Thanks for any info.
> > > > Bob

[dwb_07]

The gas gauge wiring runs in down the passengers door post and out the floor of the car to the top of the tank. I disconnected it form the tank/sender after it is dropped to the floor. There is a bracket that allows the hand brake cable to smoothly go around the tank corner. I is attached to the tank and must be removed. There is also a vent line running up along the filler spout and the filler hose. The worst problem will being cleaning the steel line that goes into the tank.I spent hours on the tanks I have cleaned using safety wire as a drill. I used Klean-Strip etching metal prep. It is only $12 a gallon and can be reused many times. Lots of vids on Youtube using molasses.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "bobs600honda" wrote:
> Ok, so I drained the tank and the good news is the gas coming out was very clean as far as I could tell. I still want to pull the tank and use my Hirsch tank kit although I may not need to pre-soak in vinegar as long as was thinking.
> Now, getting the tank out....
> The short rubber hose immediately after the tank is not budging and I may have to cut it to get it off. The fuel line it connects to is pretty rusted, at least on the outside. Should I just R&R the fuel line hose and line all the way to fuel pump? If so, what type of fuel line hose and is the fuel line stainless steel or what?
> Finally, the manual says to remove the right side gadget tray and disconnect the fuel meter lead wire? I cannot tell from the picture where the gadget tray is! Further, the manual says to remove the parking brake cable guide from the tank, but it doesn't appear to be a part of the tank?
> Thanks for any info.
> Bob