I'm tearing down the motor in my coupe to put in new pistons. When I
pulled off the cylinders and removed the pistons, I was surprised how
much I could wiggle the connecting rods. I can rock (not slide -
ROCK) them left to right over 1/16 of an inch. Is this a sign of
something being warn and needing repair, or is it how they get oil?
The car was running pretty good when I took it apart - no extra noise
that I noticed.
(If it is a sign of a problem, anyone know how much I'm looking at for
new connecting rods, and how much work it is?)
Thanks!
connecting rod play
Re: connecting rod play
i have never had a new crankshaft i got 4 used ones haven't check limits on them but the rods do rock on mine.i have heard that new one can go for 1500$ i never price one out
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> jpro8071
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, July 09, 2002 3:18
> PM
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] connecting rod
> play
> I'm tearing down the motor in my coupe to put in new
> pistons. When I
> pulled off the cylinders and removed the pistons, I
> was surprised how
> much I could wiggle the connecting rods. I can rock
> (not slide -
> ROCK) them left to right over 1/16 of an inch. Is this a
> sign of
> something being warn and needing repair, or is it how they get oil?
> The car was running pretty good when I took it apart - no extra > noise > that I noticed.
> (If it is a sign of a problem, anyone know how
> much I'm looking at for
> new connecting rods, and how much work it
> is?)
> Thanks!
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an
> to:
> 2cylinderhondas-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Your
> use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service
> .
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: connecting rod play
On the subject of your crankshaft;
Honda advises vertical movement no more than .004in. and side play or
Axial clearance of .0193in. These measurements are taken at the back side
of the lower end of the rod. Side clearance is accomplished with a feeler
gauge on the side of the rod closest to the connecting shaft.
I do a little prep first. Carb cleaner in the small holes in the center
rollers, and along side of the rods them selves. Then blow dry with
compressed air, do not allow the bearings to rotate freely. Then fill the
crankshaft with 20W30 oil. Watch for metal chips to flow from the side of
the pistons and center rollers. Now make your tests, measure the side
clearance and up and down movement. We know there is side play allowed,
however any noticeable clearance in vertical movement is a dark sign to
come. This is a critical issue, If you think their is some movement, fill
the crank back up with 20W50 and with a small plastic or hard rubber hammer,
hit the back side of the rod, if there is no metal (sound, movement followed
by a metal to metal connecting feel as you hold the rod and hit the back
side) Then it is a usable crank. If you see chips, feel the metal to metal
connection, hear the metal to metal ting, then it is better to move on to
the next crank and perform the same test on it.
Bill
Honda advises vertical movement no more than .004in. and side play or
Axial clearance of .0193in. These measurements are taken at the back side
of the lower end of the rod. Side clearance is accomplished with a feeler
gauge on the side of the rod closest to the connecting shaft.
I do a little prep first. Carb cleaner in the small holes in the center
rollers, and along side of the rods them selves. Then blow dry with
compressed air, do not allow the bearings to rotate freely. Then fill the
crankshaft with 20W30 oil. Watch for metal chips to flow from the side of
the pistons and center rollers. Now make your tests, measure the side
clearance and up and down movement. We know there is side play allowed,
however any noticeable clearance in vertical movement is a dark sign to
come. This is a critical issue, If you think their is some movement, fill
the crank back up with 20W50 and with a small plastic or hard rubber hammer,
hit the back side of the rod, if there is no metal (sound, movement followed
by a metal to metal connecting feel as you hold the rod and hit the back
side) Then it is a usable crank. If you see chips, feel the metal to metal
connection, hear the metal to metal ting, then it is better to move on to
the next crank and perform the same test on it.
Bill
Re: connecting rod play pictures
Look at the pictures I posted in the Photos/Cranks & Stuff section.
The rod that looks clean in one picture actually had small pits in it
when I pressed apart the crank. That crank felt great, but had the
pits on both rods and rust pits on the inside bearings next to the
small sprocket.
Keep in mind if you plan to press apart cranks to try to find enough
good parts to build one THAT there are 2 types of cranks. Easy to
distinguish by a small hole near the large end of the rod (not the
oiling hole Bill speaks of) it is actually drilled thru the rod. This
is the early type crank and has smaller rod ends than the later type.
Parts are not interchangeable.
For any crankshaft work or replacement of, the cases must be split.
(I guess you could ream the small ends for larger pins w/o crank
removal).
Miles
The rod that looks clean in one picture actually had small pits in it
when I pressed apart the crank. That crank felt great, but had the
pits on both rods and rust pits on the inside bearings next to the
small sprocket.
Keep in mind if you plan to press apart cranks to try to find enough
good parts to build one THAT there are 2 types of cranks. Easy to
distinguish by a small hole near the large end of the rod (not the
oiling hole Bill speaks of) it is actually drilled thru the rod. This
is the early type crank and has smaller rod ends than the later type.
Parts are not interchangeable.
For any crankshaft work or replacement of, the cases must be split.
(I guess you could ream the small ends for larger pins w/o crank
removal).
Miles
--- In 2cylinderhondas@y..., "william colford" wrote:
> On the subject of your crankshaft;
> Honda advises vertical movement no more than .004in. and side
play or
> Axial clearance of .0193in. These measurements are taken at the
back side
> of the lower end of the rod. Side clearance is accomplished with a
feeler
> gauge on the side of the rod closest to the connecting shaft.
> I do a little prep first. Carb cleaner in the small holes in
the center
> rollers, and along side of the rods them selves. Then blow dry with
> compressed air, do not allow the bearings to rotate freely. Then
fill the
> crankshaft with 20W30 oil. Watch for metal chips to flow from the
side of
> the pistons and center rollers. Now make your tests, measure the
side
> clearance and up and down movement. We know there is side play
allowed,
> however any noticeable clearance in vertical movement is a dark
sign to
> come. This is a critical issue, If you think their is some
movement, fill
> the crank back up with 20W50 and with a small plastic or hard
rubber hammer,
> hit the back side of the rod, if there is no metal (sound, movement
followed
> by a metal to metal connecting feel as you hold the rod and hit the
back
> side) Then it is a usable crank. If you see chips, feel the metal
to metal
> connection, hear the metal to metal ting, then it is better to move
on to
> the next crank and perform the same test on it.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jpro8071"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 3:18 PM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] connecting rod play
> > I'm tearing down the motor in my coupe to put in new pistons.
When I
> > pulled off the cylinders and removed the pistons, I was surprised
how
> > much I could wiggle the connecting rods. I can rock (not slide -
> > ROCK) them left to right over 1/16 of an inch. Is this a sign of
> > something being warn and needing repair, or is it how they get
oil?
> > The car was running pretty good when I took it apart - no extra
noise
> > that I noticed.
> > (If it is a sign of a problem, anyone know how much I'm looking
at for
> > new connecting rods, and how much work it is?)
> > Thanks!
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2cylinderhondas-unsubscribe@y...
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/