I am not sure where to go with this.
Thanks,
Elias�
On Fri, Oct 14, 2011 at 6:25 PM, Kevin Lister
�
> Let us know how it goes! Best of luck, dude! ;o)
> �
> kev
> From:
> Elias Baldwin baldwinelias@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Friday, October 14, 2011 3:14 PM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: 1972 Coupe with no spark
> �
> Thanks Kev, good point. I hope to get my new blue wire in tomorrow. Then I will try to fire her up.
> -Elias
> On Fri, Oct 14, 2011 at 12:18 PM, Kevin Lister
> misterpoopoohead@...
> wrote:
> > �
> > Elias,
> > �
> > You really don't need the condenser to get the car running. The condenser is there to help the points last longer. If the condenser is suspect then just disconnect it. If the condenser has failed and is shorted then this will keep the car from starting. It is unusual for the condenser to short. They typically fail and become open. This means that they no longer act as a capacitor (condenser).
> > �
> > So, a very quick test would be to just remove the connection to the condenser. If the car starts then the condenser is shorted. You can use your new DMM to check if the condenser is shorted by using the lowest resistance (ohms) setting on the meter. If you measure any resistance at all on the condenser then that means it is bad. However, it is more likely that the condenser will show no resistance at all.
> > �
> > kev
> > From:
> > baldwin_elias > baldwinelias@...
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent:
> > Thursday, October 13, 2011 7:17 PM
> > Subject:
> > [anzhonda600owners] Re: 1972 Coupe with no spark
> > �
> > With my new multimeter the coil seems good. The condenser is my suspect. I did not get a reading like the one listed below for capacitance. I am also working on replacing the blue wire from the coil to the points.
> > It may be easiest to replace both the points and condenser while I am at it.
> > I am also working on replacing the blue wire from the coil to the points. Bullet connectors for the coil side are common enough. Are there any ideas for the 90 degree fork connector that connects to the points on the other end? No shop in town has seen one.
> > Elias
> > --- In
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > , Elias Baldwin wrote:
> > > Ordered a multimeter, will do these tests soon and post results. Thank you
> > > everyone for your help.
> > > -Elias
> > > On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 10:37 PM, wrote:
> > > > **
> > > > **
> > > > Do you have a multimeter ... something which measures resistance and DC
> > > > volts? That would be a big help to you. Here are some things to look at;
> > > > 1. You need to have a good ground wire from the engine block to the bolt > > > > where the ignition coil attaches to the chassis metal. The original battery
> > > > cable went from the battery negative to the coil bolt and then on to the > > > > engine block. If your battery ground cable is only going between the > > > > battery negative and the engine block, add another wire from the block to
> > > > the bolt where the ignition coil attaches.
> > > > 2. Measure the resistance (with your multimeter) between the two spark > > > > plug connectors. Remove both connectors off the > > spark plugs and place one > > > > of the multimeter leads into the plug connector for the right side plug and > > > > then the other meter lead into the plug connector for the left side plug.
> > > > You are measuring the resistance of the secondary of the ignition coil. The
> > > > service manual give you what the reading should be but I think it is > > > > something between 5,000 and 30,000 ohms. If it is 0 or open, you have a > > > > problem. If the resistance looks open, check the spark plug connector.
> > > > You can unscrew it from the cable and check the wire resistance directly of > > > > the plug and the coil's high voltage wires.
> > > > Note: I just checked a couple coils and the primary side of the coil
> > > > (the two other wires on the coil which are not the spark plug wires) both > > > > measured 4 ohms. The resistance between the spark plug wires was 13,000 on
> > > one coil and 14,000 ohms on the other coil.
> > > > 3. With the points gap closed and the ignition switch "on", you should > > > > measure zero volts where the blue > > > > wire connects to the points (that would be the wire which goes from the
> > > > ignition coil to the points). If you open the points with your fingers and > > > > measure the voltage where the blue wire connects to the points, the voltage > > > > should be about 12 volts.
> > > > 4. If you see something reasonable for the ignition coil secondary > > > > resistance (something which is at least several thousand ohms), I would get > > > > 2 new, clean plugs and plug them into the connectors but leave them not
> > > > connected into the engine. You will hold the threaded part (spark plug > > > > casing) of both plugs against the engine block. With the ignition switch > > > > "on", if you crank over > > the engine, you should see sparks jump across the > > > > gaps at both plugs. They fire at the same time on both plugs because the > > > > engine doesn't have a distributor. It may be a faint spark or it could be a
> > > > strong spark.
> > > > 5. If steps 1 thru 3 looked ok and you did not get spark at step 4, I > > > > would suspect the condensor. Is it hooked up? One side is grounded to > > > > plate in the distributor and the other side goes to the same spot at the
> > > > blue wire. If you don't have a way to test it (some multimeters will test > > > > capacitors), it should be about 0.2 uF. If you measure the resistance of > > > > it, it should be a high value of 1 million ohms or more.
> > > > good luck,
> > > > Dale
> > > > Also on the list, the wire going from the coil to the points is VERY > > > > sketchy (patched, > > taped, etc), however power is still getting to one side of > > > > those points!
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > > -Elias
> > > > On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 8:59 PM, Elias Baldwin wrote:
> > > >> However I will add with the points closed one side of the points was still > > > >> without power...
> > > >> On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 8:58 PM, Elias Baldwin wrote:
> > > >>> Today just fooling around with my test light I had power to one side of > > > >>> the points. I turned the engine until they were open, and the tip of my test > > > >>> light made a spark across the gap. From what I am reading that it a good
> > > >>> sign! A friend of mine has a spark plug tester I might be able to borrow.
> > > >>> But placing the plug near the block and
> > cranking it over (with the other
> > > >>> plug in) doesn't produce a spark....yet.
> > > >>> On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 8:36 PM, blake neilson wrote:
> > > >>>> **
> > > >>>> That is good advice but a simpler method would be to turn the engine > > > >>>> over until the points open with the ignition switch on. Then take a
> > > >>>> screwdriver and use it to bridge the gap in the points making sure the > > > >>>> screwdriver contacts both sides of points. Then just make and break contact > > > >>>> with the screwdriver and look for sparks at the points. If you see sparks
> > > >>>> then the primary side of the system should be good. Then at the same time > > > >>>> use a spark tester on one > > of the spark plug leads with the other lead > > > >>>> connected to the other cylinder's spark plug as normal. You should see > > > >>>> sparks at the tester. If you see sparks at the plugs the secondary side of
> > > >>>> the coil should be good. I say should be because in some very rare cases the > > > >>>> coil is weak but capable of making a spark in open air but not in a > > > >>>> pressurized cylinder.
> > > >>>> I hope this helps.
> > > >>>> ------------------------------
> > > >>>> *From:* TOM THIES
> > > >>>> *To:*
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > >>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 27, 2011 6:54
> > PM
> > > >>>> *Subject:* Re: [anzhonda600owners] 1972 Coupe with no spark
> > > >>>> Chas, when that happen to me I sanded the points than tested to see
> > > >>>> if there was power to both sides. I turned the motor over until the point > > > >>>> were closed and with the key on I tested both sides. one wire to ground and > > > >>>> one to the points. Use a voltage tester, you should see voltage than on
> > > >>>> both sides. there might be a problem with the plates and two long of screws > > > >>>> but some one else will have to help you on that.
> > > >>>> hope this helps
> > > >>>> Tom
> > > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >>>> *From:* Elias Baldwin
> > >>>> *To:*
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > >>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 27, 2011 4:43 PM
> > > >>>> *Subject:* Re: [anzhonda600owners] 1972 Coupe with no spark
> > > >>>> Chas,
> > > >>>> I have power at the points. I sanded them down today. Would I see spark > > > >>>> there when turning the car over?
> > > >>>> Thanks,
> > > >>>> Elias
> > > >>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 9:17 PM, Charles Gould wrote:
> > > >>>> **
> > > >>>> Gently file or sand the points and confirm spark at the points. If
> > that does not work, replace the condenser.
> > > >>>> Chas
> > > >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > > >>>> On Sep 26, 2011, at 9:13 PM, baldwin_elias
> > > >>>> wrote:
> > > >>>> Hello everyone,
> > > >>>> I'm new here and I have been reading some recommendations for 600 coupes
> > > >>>> that won't start and have no spark. Here is my situation and clues, and any > > > >>>> help is greatly appreciated.
> > > >>>> 1. I am not getting spark. However, the engine turns over very nicely.
> > > >>>> 2. Battery is fully charged.
> > > >>>> 3. Fuel pump, dash lights come on when ignition is turned on.
> > > >>>> 4. Fuel getting to carb.
> > > >>>> 5. Power getting
> > to both sides of coil, and at one side of the points.
> > > >>>> 6. 95% sure coil is good. Swapped in a spare one to be sure and nothing > > > >>>> happened.
> > > >>>> 7. Points are correctly gapped.
> > > >>>> 8. Spark plugs look good.
> > > >>>> 9. Ground cable looks good.
> > > >>>> 10. I bought the car a few months ago and it supposedly started fine > > > >>>> right up until it was for sale.
> > > >>>> I can't wait to get this on the road. Thanks again for any input on the > > > >>>> first of what will surely be many questions!
> > > >>>> -Elias Baldwin,
> > > >>>> Vermont