Please help before I shoot my car.

[Mike]

Pictures would be awesome. Thanks.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, Eric Geiger wrote:
> I've only been messing with these cars for like a year so I'm in no way an expert. I only know what I've read and experienced personally.
> I bought a craftsman compression tester from sears for like 60-70$ that seems to work well. Right when I rebuilt my engine I measured out at like 160. If you have the funds it might be worth getting one. Everything else is pointless if your compression really is only 100psi
> I had some slight idle issues even though I had my carb partially rebuilt when I first got the car. I ended up sending it to Miles who then re worked the whole thing and he said it was absolutely filthy inside and the jets were so full of crap he was surprised it ran even.
> So even though you may have replaced the seals and such unless its been fully taken apart I would very well suspect it could be that. Ill email you some pictures of what the inside of my carb looked like when he took it apart.
> As far as taking the carb apart it's easy. As far as putting it back together It's beyond my skill set at the current time so I can't be of any assistance there. There's not many pieces but the springs are what would concern me the most I think.
> Eric J. Geiger
> ---------------------------------------
> PRG Nocturne
> XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
> XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
> XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
> egeiger@...
> www.prgnocturne.com On Jul 25, 2013, at 11:04 PM, "Mike" > wrote:
> Thanks Eric,
> I have done the same thing to check the points, but I attached a small light to the points to see exactly when they open and close. Also while it is running, I checked the timing with a timing light to.
> I have also set my valve adjustment using a 0.004" feeler gauge.
> Tommorrow, I think I might actually look inside the carburetor. Have you ever opened one up?
> I really hate to take it apart. I took apart a massive four barrel carb from a big old Oldsmobile one time. Some springs and parts fell out of it and I never could put it back together again. I know this carb is a lot different, but still a carburetor.
> The fact that messing with the choke causes it to idle makes me think it is a carb issue. What do you think?
> Thanks for the help.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, Eric Geiger wrote:
> > Ray cave is only an hour or so from you in excelsior springs. You should make friends with him and get him to help you out.
> > He's the one that sells all the 600 parts on eBay. He's your best bet as far as finding someone close with lots of knowledge.
> > Eric J. Geiger
> > ---------------------------------------
> > PRG Nocturne
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
> > egeiger@
> > www.prgnocturne.com > On Jul 25, 2013, at 9:45 PM, "Eric Geiger" > wrote:
> > Check your vacuum advance timing with with a multi meter also. you can atleast rule it out then. Set the crank pulley to F on the mark and put a multi meter between the blue wire from the points connects to the ignition coil blue wire. Set your meter so it beeps with connectivity and adjust the vacuum advance so that it is right at the point where it engages and disengages.
> > I'm sure you've checked your points gap and valve adjustment, but just wanna make sure nothing has been forgotten. It can be frustrating and just wanna make sure nothing was overlooked. Can you post a video of it trying to run on youtube or anything ? Maybe that will help others listen to the problem as well.
> > Eric J. Geiger
> > ---------------------------------------
> > PRG Nocturne
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
> > egeiger@
> > www.prgnocturne.com > On Jul 25, 2013, at 9:32 PM, "Mike" > wrote:
> > Yes, I have a rubber cap on it.
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
>, Eric Geiger wrote:
> > > When you say you didn't even connect the vacuum hose to the booster, did you plug the hose atleast with a bolt so that air isn't just racing into the intake manifold? When I rebuilt my engine I didn't have the hose connected and it wouldn't idle EVER either as soon as I fixed that it was great.
> > > Eric J. Geiger
> > > ---------------------------------------
> > > PRG Nocturne
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
> > > XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
> > > egeiger@
> > > www.prgnocturne.com > > On Jul 25, 2013, at 8:34 PM, "Mike" > wrote:
> > > Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine run.
> > > The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> > > Here's where I'm at:
> > > 1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> > > 2. Just Lapped the valves meticulously with lapping compound.
> > > 3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt with a rebuild kit.
> > > My compression gauge says my compression is only 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, so I think the gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental)
> > > The ignition timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> > > The Cam chain also looks like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> > > The main pulley with the notch pointing to the "T":
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html
> > > The notch on the Cam Shaft:
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html
> > > And the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html
> > > All of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> > > The Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps plenty of fuel.
> > > There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no difference.
> > > The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well when I turn it on.
> > > The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT IDLE.
> > > The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't get to watch him, but he fixed it rather quick.
> > > The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back together correctly.
> > > Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really old cars.
> > > I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor. But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car, unless the engine simply exploded or something major like that.
> > > I'm sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> > > Thank you for any input at all.
> > > Mike.

[zinc2u]

Hi Mike,
     What do you mean by "you just had the carburetor rebuilt"?   I suspect your carb was not rebuilt properly.
You should get a good compression gauge and check your engine.  It should be around 160 psi.
And you should check that you do not have a vacuum leak.  Where the carb attaches to the boot on the intake is a source for a leak.  If both these areas are ok.... I would suspect the idle circuit on your carb is clogged.  Look at the carb description in the sedan manual.  Even though you may have the later style carb,  it will still give you an idea about how the idle circuit work and the area to look at.  The passageways are cast into the carb.  You need to disassemble the carb and let it soak in carb cleaner to free up the passageways.  The screw on the side of the carb should have an effect on the engine operation if the passageways are clear for the idle circuit.  Start with the screws turned out 1 1/2 turns and adjust for smooth operation and correct idle speed  (check the manual .....
I think it is 1080 for the coupe).   You adjust the throttle screw and the screw on the side of the carb to set the idle speed to the desired value.
good luck,
Dale
PS   20 degrees BTDC is not the correct value for an engine running at idle.  It should be on the "F" mark at idle.  Another thing which can prevent a good idle would be dirty (or incorrectly set) points.
But it sounds like you have new stuff in this area.

> Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine > run.
> The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> Here's where I'm at:
> 1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam > chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> 2. Just Lapped the valves
> meticulously with lapping compound.
> 3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt
> with a rebuild kit.
> My compression gauge says my compression is only
> 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression > of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip > totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, so I think the > gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental) > The ignition > timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before > Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> The Cam chain also looks
> like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> The main pulley with the
> notch pointing to the "T":
> http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html > The > notch on the Cam Shaft:
> http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html > And > the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
> http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html > All > of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> The
> Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps > plenty of fuel.
> There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the
> hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no > difference.
> The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If > I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well > when I turn it on.
> The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried
> setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no > effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT > IDLE.
> The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke > a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep > running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A > carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't get to watch him, but he fixed > it rather quick.
> The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am
> inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but > never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am > rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back together > correctly.
> Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most
> frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really > old cars.
> I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out > this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor.
> But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car, > unless the engine simply exploded or something major like that.
> I'm
> sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> Thank you for any
> input at all.
> Mike.

[P. D. Kelly]

I also am having carb problems, had it rebuilt at a shop, and it was running great, had some brake troubles before the winter, and it sat for awhile, took it apart and cleaned it up and put it back on, and now it won't start. Have good spark and gas going to it, but won't kick in??? Please any help would B great.
Thank for your time Kelly

> From:
> "goinhm@..."
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Friday, July 26, 2013 1:01 AM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Please help before I shoot my car.
> Hi Mike,
>      What do you mean by "you just had the carburetor
> rebuilt"?   I suspect your carb was not rebuilt properly.
> You should get a good compression gauge and check your engine.  It should > be around 160 psi.
> And you should check that you do not have a vacuum leak.  Where the > carb attaches to the boot on the intake is a source for a leak.  If both > these areas are ok.... I would suspect the idle circuit on your carb is > clogged.  Look at the carb description in the sedan manual.  Even > though you may have the later style carb,  it will still give you an idea > about how the idle circuit work and the area to look at.  The passageways > are cast into the carb.  You need to disassemble the carb and let it soak > in carb cleaner to free up the passageways.  The screw on the side of the > carb should have an effect on the engine operation if the passageways are clear > for the idle circuit.  Start with the screws turned out 1 1/2 turns and > adjust for smooth operation and correct idle speed  (check the manual .....
> I think it is 1080 for the coupe).   You adjust the throttle screw and > the screw on the side of the carb to set the idle speed to the desired > value.
> good luck,
> Dale
> PS   20 degrees BTDC is not the correct value for an engine > running at idle.  It should be on the "F" mark at idle.  Another thing > which can prevent a good idle would be dirty (or incorrectly set) points.
> But it sounds like you have new stuff in this area.
> > Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine > > run.
> > The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> > Here's where I'm at:
> > 1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam > > chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> > 2. Just Lapped the valves
> > meticulously with lapping compound.
> > 3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt
> > with a rebuild kit.
> > My compression gauge says my compression is only
> > 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression > > of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip > > totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, so I think the > > gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental) > > The ignition > > timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before > > Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> > The Cam chain also looks
> > like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> > The main pulley with the
> > notch pointing to the "T":
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html > > The > > notch on the Cam Shaft:
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html > > And > > the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html > > All > > of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> > The
> > Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps > > plenty of fuel.
> > There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the
> > hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no > > difference.
> > The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If > > I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well > > when I turn it on.
> > The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried
> > setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no > > effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT > > IDLE.
> > The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke > > a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep > > running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A > > carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't get to watch him, but he fixed > > it rather quick.
> > The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am
> > inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but > > never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am > > rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back together > > correctly.
> > Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most
> > frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really > > old cars.
> > I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out > > this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor.
> > But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car, > > unless the engine simply exploded or something major like that.
> > I'm
> > sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> > Thank you for any
> > input at all.
> > Mike.

[Eric Geiger]

Kelly where r u located?
Eric J. Geiger
--------------------------------------

On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:37 PM, "P. D. Kelly" wrote:
I also am having carb problems, had it rebuilt at a shop, and it was running great, had some brake troubles before the winter, and it sat for awhile, took it apart and cleaned it up and put it back on, and now it won't start. Have good spark and gas going to it, but won't kick in??? Please any help would B great.
Thank for your time
Kelly
> From:
> "
> goinhm@...
> " goinhm@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Friday, July 26, 2013 1:01 AM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Please help before I shoot my car.
> Hi Mike,
>      What do you mean by "you just had the carburetor rebuilt"?   I suspect your carb was not rebuilt properly.   You should get a good compression gauge and check your engine.  It should be around 160 psi.
> And you should check that you do not have a vacuum leak.  Where the carb attaches to the boot on the intake is a source for a leak.  If both these areas are ok.... I would suspect the idle circuit on your carb is clogged.  Look at the carb description > in the sedan manual.  Even though you may have the later style carb,  it will still give you an idea about how the idle circuit work and the area to look at.  The passageways are cast into the carb.  You need to disassemble the carb and let it soak in carb > cleaner to free up the passageways.  The screw on the side of the carb should have an effect on the engine operation if the passageways are clear for the idle circuit.  Start with the screws turned out 1 1/2 turns and adjust for smooth operation and correct > idle speed  (check the manual ..... I think it is 1080 for the coupe).   You adjust the throttle screw and the screw on the side of the carb to set the idle speed to the desired value.
> good luck,
> Dale
> PS   20 degrees BTDC is not the correct value for an engine running at idle.  It should be on the "F" mark at idle.  Another thing which can prevent a good idle would be dirty (or incorrectly set) points.  But it sounds like you have new stuff in this > area.
> > Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine run.
> > The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> > Here's where I'm at:
> > 1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> > 2. Just Lapped the valves meticulously with lapping compound.
> > 3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt with a rebuild kit.
> > My compression gauge says my compression is only 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, > > so I think the gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental)
> > The ignition timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> > The Cam chain also looks like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> > The main pulley with the notch pointing to the "T":
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html
> > The notch on the Cam Shaft:
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html
> > And the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
> > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html
> > All of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> > The Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps plenty of fuel.
> > There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no difference.
> > The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well when I turn it on.
> > The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT IDLE.
> > The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't > > get to watch him, but he fixed it rather quick.
> > The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back > > together correctly.
> > Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really old cars.
> > I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor. But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car, unless the engine simply exploded or something > > major like that.
> > I'm sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> > Thank you for any input at all.
> > Mike.

[P. D. Kelly]

NW Arkansas

> From:
> Eric Geiger
> To:
> ""
>
> Cc:
> "anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com"
> Sent:
> Friday, July 26, 2013 4:39 PM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Please help before I shoot my car.
> Kelly where r u located?
> Eric J. Geiger
> --------------------------------------
> On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:37 PM, "P. D. Kelly" whatzhanging190@...
> > wrote:
> > I also am having carb problems, had it rebuilt at a shop, and it was running great, had some brake troubles before the winter, and it sat for awhile, took it apart and cleaned it up and put it back on, and now it won't start. Have good spark and > > gas going to it, but won't kick in??? Please any help would B great.
> > Thank for your time
> > Kelly
> > > From:
> > > "
> > > goinhm@...
> > > " > > goinhm@...
> > > To:
> > > mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent:
> > > Friday, July 26, 2013 1:01 AM
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [anzhonda600owners] Please help before I shoot my car.
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >      What do you mean by "you just had the carburetor rebuilt"?   I suspect your carb was not rebuilt properly.   You should get a good compression gauge and check your engine.  It should be around 160 psi.
> > > And you should check that you do not have a vacuum leak.  Where the carb attaches to the boot on the intake is a source for a leak.  If both these areas are ok.... I would suspect the idle circuit on your carb is clogged.  Look at the carb description > > > in the sedan manual.  Even though you may have the later style carb,  it will still give you an idea about how the idle circuit work and the area to look at.  The passageways are cast into the carb.  You need to disassemble the carb and let it soak in carb > > > cleaner to free up the passageways.  The screw on the side of the carb should have an effect on the engine operation if the passageways are clear for the idle circuit.  Start with the screws turned out 1 1/2 turns and adjust for smooth operation and correct > > > idle speed  (check the manual ..... I think it is 1080 for the coupe).   You adjust the throttle screw and the screw on the side of the carb to set the idle speed to the desired value.
> > > good luck,
> > > Dale
> > > PS   20 degrees BTDC is not the correct value for an engine running at idle.  It should be on the "F" mark at idle.  Another thing which can prevent a good idle would be dirty (or incorrectly set) points.  But it sounds like you have new stuff in this > > > area.
> > > > Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine run.
> > > > The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> > > > Here's where I'm at:
> > > > 1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> > > > 2. Just Lapped the valves meticulously with lapping compound.
> > > > 3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt with a rebuild kit.
> > > > My compression gauge says my compression is only 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, > > > > so I think the gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental)
> > > > The ignition timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> > > > The Cam chain also looks like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> > > > The main pulley with the notch pointing to the "T":
> > > > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html
> > > > The notch on the Cam Shaft:
> > > > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html
> > > > And the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
> > > > http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html
> > > > All of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> > > > The Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps plenty of fuel.
> > > > There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no difference.
> > > > The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well when I turn it on.
> > > > The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT IDLE.
> > > > The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't > > > > get to watch him, but he fixed it rather quick.
> > > > The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back > > > > together correctly.
> > > > Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really old cars.
> > > > I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor. But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car, unless the engine simply exploded or something > > > > major like that.
> > > > I'm sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> > > > Thank you for any input at all.
> > > > Mike.

[Mike]

Kelly, Did you say the car sat for a while? Try cleaning your spark plugs or simply replace them. At least take them out and clean them off with any type of solvent.
If it won't even kick, then try shooting a little starter fluid in the intake just to see if it has an effect.
see if that helps.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "P. D. Kelly" wrote:
> I also am having carb problems, had it rebuilt at a shop, and it was running great, had some brake troubles before the winter, and it sat for awhile, took it apart and cleaned it up and put it back on, and now it won't start. Have good spark and gas going to it, but won't kick in??? Please any help would B great.
> Thank for your time
> Kelly
> > From: "goinhm@..."
> >To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 1:01 AM
> >Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Please help before I shoot my car.
> >Hi Mike,
> >     What do you mean by "you just had the carburetor
> rebuilt"?   I suspect your carb was not rebuilt properly.
> You should get a good compression gauge and check your engine.  It should
> be around 160 psi.
> >And you should check that you do not have a vacuum leak.  Where the
> carb attaches to the boot on the intake is a source for a leak.  If both
> these areas are ok.... I would suspect the idle circuit on your carb is
> clogged.  Look at the carb description in the sedan manual.  Even
> though you may have the later style carb,  it will still give you an idea
> about how the idle circuit work and the area to look at.  The passageways
> are cast into the carb.  You need to disassemble the carb and let it soak
> in carb cleaner to free up the passageways.  The screw on the side of the
> carb should have an effect on the engine operation if the passageways are clear
> for the idle circuit.  Start with the screws turned out 1 1/2 turns and
> adjust for smooth operation and correct idle speed  (check the manual .....
> I think it is 1080 for the coupe).   You adjust the throttle screw and
> the screw on the side of the carb to set the idle speed to the desired
> value.
> >good luck,
> >Dale
> >PS   20 degrees BTDC is not the correct value for an engine
> running at idle.  It should be on the "F" mark at idle.  Another thing
> which can prevent a good idle would be dirty (or incorrectly set) points.
> But it sounds like you have new stuff in this area.
> >>Never in my life have I had such difficulty making an engine run.
> >>The engine starts, but WILL NOT idle.
> >>Here's where I'm at:
> >>1. Relatively recent engine rebuild with new piston rings and cam
> chain and cam wheels and gaskets.
> >>2. Just Lapped the valves
> meticulously with lapping compound.
> >>3. Just had the carburetor rebuilt
> with a rebuild kit.
> >>My compression gauge says my compression is only
> 100 psi, BUT my compression gauge also says that my Datsun has a compression
> of only 90 psi. Although I just drove my Datsun on a rather long road trip
> totaling 800 miles in which it got 45 miles per gallon average, so I think the
> gauge is a piece of junk. (Orielly automotive free rental)
> >>The ignition
> timing looks like it is pretty good. It is firing at about 20 degrees Before
> Top Dead Center. Checked using a timing light.
> >>The Cam chain also looks
> like it is set correctly. Here are some pictures.
> >>The main pulley with the
> notch pointing to the "T":
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 1.jpg.html
> >>The
> notch on the Cam Shaft:
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 7.jpg.html
> >>And
> the level line on the Cam Shaft Sprocket:
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/megamik ... 5.jpg.html
> >>All
> of those pictures were taken with the engine in the same position.
> >>The
> Fuel is not very old. And neither are the plugs. The pump certainly pumps
> plenty of fuel.
> >>There are no vacuum leaks. I did not even connect the
> hose to the brake booster, and closing the vacuum advance line makes no
> difference.
> >>The fuel shut off valve on the carb seems to be working. If
> I disconnect it, the car immediately dies. I can hear it "clicking" quite well
> when I turn it on.
> >>The Carburetor was just rebuilt and I've tried
> setting the idle fuel mixture. However, turning the idle mixture screw has no
> effect at all. Whether it is in or out or in between, the car WILL NOT
> IDLE.
> >>The only thing that makes this car idle is if you close the choke
> a little bit. Even then, it is a rough idle, but at least it will keep
> running. That reminds me of an old VW beetle I had with a similar problem. A
> carb guy told me it was the idle jet. I didn't get to watch him, but he fixed
> it rather quick.
> >>The Carburetor is the only thing on a car that I am
> inexperienced in servicing. I have tried to rebuild them myself before, but
> never had much luck. I suppose I could try taking this one apart, but I am
> rather reluctant to do so for fear it will not go back together
> correctly.
> >>Is there anything I am missing here? This is the most
> frustrating thing I have ever worked on and I have worked on a lot of really
> old cars.
> >>I am counting down the days till I have the money to yank out
> this engine and throw it off a cliff and replace it with an electric motor.
> But I also really want to fix it. I have NEVER not been able to fix a car,
> unless the engine simply exploded or something major like that.
> >>I'm
> sorry I wrote so much. The frustration made me do it.
> >>Thank you for any
> input at all.
> >>Mike.