Car won't turn over-How to bench test starter?

[dealadayray]

Send me an e-mail address I can send a picture to.
Mine is the one I cc to.
Bill

[stevenmichelsen2]

OK, if you were familiar with using a volt meter, this would be over
by now. It's not, so I'll assume you're not. Go buy a cheap 12 volt
volt meter, available at most any place that sells even the simplest
of auto
parts. Get familiar with how it works. Touch the negative probe
(black wire)to the negative(-) battery terminal and touch the other
probe(red wire) to the positive(+) terminal on the battery. The
meter should show between 12 and 14 volts. If it does, the battery
is good. If not, correct the problem. Next do the same, only probe
the battery cable clamps to make sure the juice is making it out of
the battery. Clean the terminals/clamps if not. If OK, next touch
the red
probe to the terminal on the starter where the large cable is
attached. Keep the black probe on the negative battery terminal. You
should have 12 to 14 volts showing. Now keep the black probe where
it is, the red probe touched to the small wire that is attached to
the starter and have someone turn the ignition key(as if starting
the car). CAREFUL!!! where you put your body parts, there is a
chance it might start. If you get voltage when you do this, then
your starter is most likely toast. If not, your ignion switch isn't
doing it's job. You'd want to test the ignition switch using similar
test as you've just done, to be sure. Lets not go there yet. I hope
I made this simple without going on too long and I hope it helps. Be
careful, 12 volts will not shock you, but unexpected movement, loose
clothing, and/or jewelry gounding out can be dangerous. Bill ---
In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, " " wrote:

> What do you mean the "back side of the ignition key assembly"?
> I also notice a few electrical terminals that are not connected to
> anything. Notably one below the coil that looks like it should be
> connected so i plugged the two wires together, its bundled with
> several other white wires. Does anyone have a quick list of
> what/where are the unused connectors?
> Marshall-Are you telling me you bump started your 600 for a whole year
> during college? Wow, i thought i did some strange things during
> college days.
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford"
> wrote:
> > Hi Marshall;
> > The simple fix is to locate a new switch for the back side of the
> > ignition key assembly. It is the same for either Sedan or Coupe. Often
> > they either ground out or the return spring jams or brakes causing the
> > starter to stay engaged.
> > About once a season I need to clean all the exterior bulb
> carriers, and
> > often the battery terminals come lose or the connections become
> corroded
> > enough to insulate the contact. Normally its an easy cleaning. But
> to start
> > adding this or that toggle switch often leads to more problems.
> > Unwrap your wire harness in the engine compt and make sure
> nothing is
> > melted. If it is, replace it by cutting out the wire and soldering
> in a new
> > wire in its place.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Marshall Montchalin [mailto:kf6pbg@y...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:29 AM
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Car won't turn over-How to bench test
> > starter?
> > A DOZEN REASONS:
> > OOops a lot of static got on the line probably by my own
> fault--- Let
> > me make amends by admitting that too frequently one problem has a dozen
> > possible reasons or causes which are all present when one tries to
> return to
> > launch-normal status, always making me feel like an idiot that I
> didn't know
> > the SQR(13) by heart. I hope I didn't make you feel as I too frequently
> > feel.
> > #1 replacing the key with switches is just a thought to eliminate
> possible
> > key failures
> > For trouble-shooting I had a brake light bulb(OK to use Detroit)
> with two
> > wires soldered to it with alligator clips on the end: this works
> with only
> > the one alligator clipwire soldered to the tip of the base of the brake
> > light... Clip to your points and ground the bulb by holding it to
> the block
> > so that the points will light up if open, or you can clip to positive
> > battery and the points will light up the light when they close so
> you can
> > time the car with the ignition only by turning the engine by wrench
> to the
> > Fire position then setting the points to almost close/open. This is
> called
> > "Static Timing" because the engine is not "Dynamic", meaning I live
> close to
> > Hillsboro.
> > This same timing light can be used to detect power on any wire.
> Hope this
> > idea helps.
> > HONDA had good connectors, but everything gets old and corroded.
> DO spray,
> > but unplug-plug-unplug-plug the suspected connections whilst
> spraying and
> > leave them plugged back together. FYI- WD40 is conductive, so dont
> spray it
> > on the distributor of a newer car.
> > TAKE SPECIAL CARE WHILST bump-starting, maybe use third instead of
> second
> > for gentler starting. Another good idea is to make a wire with
> alligators on
> > both ends instead of using switches to replace the key. I don't know
> much
> > about starters, unfortunately, because when mine went out I drove it
> without
> > one while going to college for about a year until I got a new car
> many years
> > ago. All of this talk about 600s has gotten me hungry to upgrade to a
> > smaller car. Sorry if I talk too much.
> > Marshall
> > Marshall Montchalin
> > Finally, the world thanks you for your decision to drive a
> beautiful car
> > like the 600.
> > Curse Detroit.
> > Love, Marshall
> > wrote:
> > Yes that ugly green stuff, its everywhere its not supposed to be,
> > haha. I haven't tried bump starting it in 2nd but i'll try that
> > today. I was thinking of trying to source out certain plastic
> > electrical connectors and then re-crimping those terminals.
> Or what
> > about trying to clean it by pouring Coke on it or something?
> > I also suspect my ignition cylinder isn't doing so well. The
> spring
> > inside must be broken because the key deosn't return to the ON
> > position after the engine starts (when it was running). I
> tried to
> > jiggle the key when starting but that doesn't work. How can i
> test
> > this? I figure put a test light on a circuit that gets
> energized when
> > the key is turned to the START position but which wire?
> > [snip]
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------
> > --
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------
> > --
> Service.

[turbotwo]

Thanks for the voltmeter tip. I am fairly familiar with using one. I
should go out and get one anyways.
I did remove the starter today and will test it tomorrow. I have a
service manual and noticed it shows the thick uninsulated stranded
wire connected to the "M" terminal, but on my starter its connected to
the other one, the "B" terminal. There's also a smaller black wire
that isn't shown in the service manual. What are the correct
locations of the 3 wires on the starter looking at the back of the
solenoid? I'm talking about the starter cable (positive battery
cable), the small black wire coming out of the solenoid, and the
stranded thicker wire coming out of the starter housing through a
rubber cover?

[turbotwo]

Okay I took the starter to my local auto parts store and they can't
test it. Too old they say! Geez. So can i just hook up a battery to
it? How do I replicate the lead from the ignition switch to actually
start the thing?

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> Thanks for the voltmeter tip. I am fairly familiar with using one. I
> should go out and get one anyways.
> I did remove the starter today and will test it tomorrow. I have a
> service manual and noticed it shows the thick uninsulated stranded
> wire connected to the "M" terminal, but on my starter its connected to
> the other one, the "B" terminal. There's also a smaller black wire
> that isn't shown in the service manual. What are the correct
> locations of the 3 wires on the starter looking at the back of the
> solenoid? I'm talking about the starter cable (positive battery
> cable), the small black wire coming out of the solenoid, and the
> stranded thicker wire coming out of the starter housing through a
> rubber cover?
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> wrote:
> > OK, if you were familiar with using a volt meter, this would be over
> > by now. It's not, so I'll assume you're not. Go buy a cheap 12 volt
> > volt meter, available at most any place that sells even the simplest
> > of auto
> > parts. Get familiar with how it works. Touch the negative probe
> > (black wire)to the negative(-) battery terminal and touch the other
> > probe(red wire) to the positive(+) terminal on the battery. The
> > meter should show between 12 and 14 volts. If it does, the battery
> > is good. If not, correct the problem. Next do the same, only probe
> > the battery cable clamps to make sure the juice is making it out of
> > the battery. Clean the terminals/clamps if not. If OK, next touch
> > the red
> > probe to the terminal on the starter where the large cable is
> > attached. Keep the black probe on the negative battery terminal. You
> > should have 12 to 14 volts showing. Now keep the black probe where
> > it is, the red probe touched to the small wire that is attached to
> > the starter and have someone turn the ignition key(as if starting
> > the car). CAREFUL!!! where you put your body parts, there is a
> > chance it might start. If you get voltage when you do this, then
> > your starter is most likely toast. If not, your ignion switch isn't
> > doing it's job. You'd want to test the ignition switch using similar
> > test as you've just done, to be sure. Lets not go there yet. I hope
> > I made this simple without going on too long and I hope it helps. Be
> > careful, 12 volts will not shock you, but unexpected movement, loose
> > clothing, and/or jewelry gounding out can be dangerous. Bill ---
> > In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > > What do you mean the "back side of the ignition key assembly"?
> > > I also notice a few electrical terminals that are not connected to
> > > anything. Notably one below the coil that looks like it should be
> > > connected so i plugged the two wires together, its bundled with
> > > several other white wires. Does anyone have a quick list of
> > > what/where are the unused connectors?
> > > Marshall-Are you telling me you bump started your 600 for a whole
> > year
> > > during college? Wow, i thought i did some strange things during
> > > college days.
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford"
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hi Marshall;
> > > > The simple fix is to locate a new switch for the back side
> > of the
> > > > ignition key assembly. It is the same for either Sedan or
> > Coupe. Often
> > > > they either ground out or the return spring jams or brakes
> > causing the
> > > > starter to stay engaged.
> > > > About once a season I need to clean all the exterior bulb
> > > carriers, and
> > > > often the battery terminals come lose or the connections become
> > > corroded
> > > > enough to insulate the contact. Normally its an easy cleaning.
> > But
> > > to start
> > > > adding this or that toggle switch often leads to more problems.
> > > > Unwrap your wire harness in the engine compt and make sure
> > > nothing is
> > > > melted. If it is, replace it by cutting out the wire and
> > soldering
> > > in a new
> > > > wire in its place.
> > > > Bill
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Marshall Montchalin [mailto:kf6pbg@y...]
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:29 AM
> > > > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Car won't turn over-How to
> > bench test
> > > > starter?
> > > > A DOZEN REASONS:
> > > > OOops a lot of static got on the line probably by my own
> > > fault--- Let
> > > > me make amends by admitting that too frequently one problem has
> > a dozen
> > > > possible reasons or causes which are all present when one tries
> > to
> > > return to
> > > > launch-normal status, always making me feel like an idiot that I
> > > didn't know
> > > > the SQR(13) by heart. I hope I didn't make you feel as I too
> > frequently
> > > > feel.
> > > > #1 replacing the key with switches is just a thought to
> > eliminate
> > > possible
> > > > key failures
> > > > For trouble-shooting I had a brake light bulb(OK to use
> > Detroit)
> > > with two
> > > > wires soldered to it with alligator clips on the end: this works
> > > with only
> > > > the one alligator clipwire soldered to the tip of the base of
> > the brake
> > > > light... Clip to your points and ground the bulb by holding it to
> > > the block
> > > > so that the points will light up if open, or you can clip to
> > positive
> > > > battery and the points will light up the light when they close so
> > > you can
> > > > time the car with the ignition only by turning the engine by
> > wrench
> > > to the
> > > > Fire position then setting the points to almost close/open. This
> > is
> > > called
> > > > "Static Timing" because the engine is not "Dynamic", meaning I
> > live
> > > close to
> > > > Hillsboro.
> > > > This same timing light can be used to detect power on any wire.
> > > Hope this
> > > > idea helps.
> > > > HONDA had good connectors, but everything gets old and
> > corroded.
> > > DO spray,
> > > > but unplug-plug-unplug-plug the suspected connections whilst
> > > spraying and
> > > > leave them plugged back together. FYI- WD40 is conductive, so
> > dont
> > > spray it
> > > > on the distributor of a newer car.
> > > > TAKE SPECIAL CARE WHILST bump-starting, maybe use third
> > instead of
> > > second
> > > > for gentler starting. Another good idea is to make a wire with
> > > alligators on
> > > > both ends instead of using switches to replace the key. I don't
> > know
> > > much
> > > > about starters, unfortunately, because when mine went out I
> > drove it
> > > without
> > > > one while going to college for about a year until I got a new car
> > > many years
> > > > ago. All of this talk about 600s has gotten me hungry to upgrade
> > to a
> > > > smaller car. Sorry if I talk too much.
> > > > Marshall
> > > > Marshall Montchalin
> > > > Finally, the world thanks you for your decision to drive a
> > > beautiful car
> > > > like the 600.
> > > > Curse Detroit.
> > > > Love, Marshall
> > > > wrote:
> > > > Yes that ugly green stuff, its everywhere its not supposed
> > to be,
> > > > haha. I haven't tried bump starting it in 2nd but i'll
> > try that
> > > > today. I was thinking of trying to source out certain
> > plastic
> > > > electrical connectors and then re-crimping those
> > terminals.
> > > Or what
> > > > about trying to clean it by pouring Coke on it or
> > something?
> > > > I also suspect my ignition cylinder isn't doing so well.
> > The
> > > spring
> > > > inside must be broken because the key deosn't return to
> > the ON
> > > > position after the engine starts (when it was running). I
> > > tried to
> > > > jiggle the key when starting but that doesn't work. How
> > can i
> > > test
> > > > this? I figure put a test light on a circuit that gets
> > > energized when
> > > > the key is turned to the START position but which wire?
> > > > [snip]
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ---------
> > > > --
> > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ---------
> > > > --

[stevenmichelsen2]

Easy, hook a jumper cable to the starter housing (a clean, non
painted spot) and the other end to the (-)terminal on a good
battery. Hook the other
jumper cable to the (+)terminal on the battery and the other end to
the
terminal on your starter where the battery cable was. Now take a
wire, a remote starter switch(best), screw driver(better than
nothing)...anything that will make a connection from where the
battery(+) cable hooks to the starter, to where the small wire was
hooked to the solenoid(thats where the wire that delivers juice from
key, when you turn it to start, hooks). Hold on to the starter when
you make the last connection, if all is good, it will travel! If it
just clicks then your solenoid is good, starter bad. Also, the
question about the terminals marked "M" and "B". They stand for motor
(as in starter motor) and battery. Yours are hooked up backwards it
sounds, but it doesn't matter. The solenoid is just a switch...power
in, power out(electricity will flow either direction). The small
wire is the source of the energy to turn that switch on. Releasing
the key, off. I'm trying not to make this too long and yet not leave
stuff out. Bill--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, " "
wrote:

> Okay I took the starter to my local auto parts store and they can't
> test it. Too old they say! Geez. So can i just hook up a battery to
> it? How do I replicate the lead from the ignition switch to actually
> start the thing?
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > Thanks for the voltmeter tip. I am fairly familiar with using one. I
> > should go out and get one anyways.
> > I did remove the starter today and will test it tomorrow. I have a
> > service manual and noticed it shows the thick uninsulated stranded
> > wire connected to the "M" terminal, but on my starter its connected to
> > the other one, the "B" terminal. There's also a smaller black wire
> > that isn't shown in the service manual. What are the correct
> > locations of the 3 wires on the starter looking at the back of the
> > solenoid? I'm talking about the starter cable (positive battery
> > cable), the small black wire coming out of the solenoid, and the
> > stranded thicker wire coming out of the starter housing through a
> > rubber cover?
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> > wrote:
> > > OK, if you were familiar with using a volt meter, this would be over
> > > by now. It's not, so I'll assume you're not. Go buy a cheap 12 volt
> > > volt meter, available at most any place that sells even the simplest
> > > of auto
> > > parts. Get familiar with how it works. Touch the negative probe
> > > (black wire)to the negative(-) battery terminal and touch the other
> > > probe(red wire) to the positive(+) terminal on the battery. The
> > > meter should show between 12 and 14 volts. If it does, the battery
> > > is good. If not, correct the problem. Next do the same, only probe
> > > the battery cable clamps to make sure the juice is making it out of
> > > the battery. Clean the terminals/clamps if not. If OK, next touch
> > > the red
> > > probe to the terminal on the starter where the large cable is
> > > attached. Keep the black probe on the negative battery terminal. You
> > > should have 12 to 14 volts showing. Now keep the black probe where
> > > it is, the red probe touched to the small wire that is attached to
> > > the starter and have someone turn the ignition key(as if starting
> > > the car). CAREFUL!!! where you put your body parts, there is a
> > > chance it might start. If you get voltage when you do this, then
> > > your starter is most likely toast. If not, your ignion switch isn't
> > > doing it's job. You'd want to test the ignition switch using similar
> > > test as you've just done, to be sure. Lets not go there yet. I hope
> > > I made this simple without going on too long and I hope it helps. Be
> > > careful, 12 volts will not shock you, but unexpected movement, loose
> > > clothing, and/or jewelry gounding out can be dangerous. Bill -- -
> > > In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > > > What do you mean the "back side of the ignition key assembly"?
> > > > I also notice a few electrical terminals that are not connected to
> > > > anything. Notably one below the coil that looks like it should be
> > > > connected so i plugged the two wires together, its bundled with
> > > > several other white wires. Does anyone have a quick list of
> > > > what/where are the unused connectors?
> > > > Marshall-Are you telling me you bump started your 600 for a whole
> > > year
> > > > during college? Wow, i thought i did some strange things during
> > > > college days.
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Hi Marshall;
> > > > > The simple fix is to locate a new switch for the back side
> > > of the
> > > > > ignition key assembly. It is the same for either Sedan or
> > > Coupe. Often
> > > > > they either ground out or the return spring jams or brakes
> > > causing the
> > > > > starter to stay engaged.
> > > > > About once a season I need to clean all the exterior bulb
> > > > carriers, and
> > > > > often the battery terminals come lose or the connections become
> > > > corroded
> > > > > enough to insulate the contact. Normally its an easy cleaning.
> > > But
> > > > to start
> > > > > adding this or that toggle switch often leads to more problems.
> > > > > Unwrap your wire harness in the engine compt and make sure
> > > > nothing is
> > > > > melted. If it is, replace it by cutting out the wire and
> > > soldering
> > > > in a new
> > > > > wire in its place.
> > > > > Bill
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: Marshall Montchalin [mailto:kf6pbg@y...]
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:29 AM
> > > > > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Car won't turn over-How to
> > > bench test
> > > > > starter?
> > > > > A DOZEN REASONS:
> > > > > OOops a lot of static got on the line probably by my own
> > > > fault--- Let
> > > > > me make amends by admitting that too frequently one problem has
> > > a dozen
> > > > > possible reasons or causes which are all present when one tries
> > > to
> > > > return to
> > > > > launch-normal status, always making me feel like an idiot that I
> > > > didn't know
> > > > > the SQR(13) by heart. I hope I didn't make you feel as I too
> > > frequently
> > > > > feel.
> > > > > #1 replacing the key with switches is just a thought to
> > > eliminate
> > > > possible
> > > > > key failures
> > > > > For trouble-shooting I had a brake light bulb(OK to use
> > > Detroit)
> > > > with two
> > > > > wires soldered to it with alligator clips on the end: this works
> > > > with only
> > > > > the one alligator clipwire soldered to the tip of the base of
> > > the brake
> > > > > light... Clip to your points and ground the bulb by holding it to
> > > > the block
> > > > > so that the points will light up if open, or you can clip to
> > > positive
> > > > > battery and the points will light up the light when they close so
> > > > you can
> > > > > time the car with the ignition only by turning the engine by
> > > wrench
> > > > to the
> > > > > Fire position then setting the points to almost close/open. This
> > > is
> > > > called
> > > > > "Static Timing" because the engine is not "Dynamic", meaning I
> > > live
> > > > close to
> > > > > Hillsboro.
> > > > > This same timing light can be used to detect power on any wire.
> > > > Hope this
> > > > > idea helps.
> > > > > HONDA had good connectors, but everything gets old and
> > > corroded.
> > > > DO spray,
> > > > > but unplug-plug-unplug-plug the suspected connections whilst
> > > > spraying and
> > > > > leave them plugged back together. FYI- WD40 is conductive, so
> > > dont
> > > > spray it
> > > > > on the distributor of a newer car.
> > > > > TAKE SPECIAL CARE WHILST bump-starting, maybe use third
> > > instead of
> > > > second
> > > > > for gentler starting. Another good idea is to make a wire with
> > > > alligators on
> > > > > both ends instead of using switches to replace the key. I don't
> > > know
> > > > much
> > > > > about starters, unfortunately, because when mine went out I
> > > drove it
> > > > without
> > > > > one while going to college for about a year until I got a new car
> > > > many years
> > > > > ago. All of this talk about 600s has gotten me hungry to upgrade
> > > to a
> > > > > smaller car. Sorry if I talk too much.
> > > > > Marshall
> > > > > Marshall Montchalin
> > > > > Finally, the world thanks you for your decision to drive a
> > > > beautiful car
> > > > > like the 600.
> > > > > Curse Detroit.
> > > > > Love, Marshall
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > Yes that ugly green stuff, its everywhere its not supposed
> > > to be,
> > > > > haha. I haven't tried bump starting it in 2nd but i'll
> > > try that
> > > > > today. I was thinking of trying to source out certain
> > > plastic
> > > > > electrical connectors and then re-crimping those
> > > terminals.
> > > > Or what
> > > > > about trying to clean it by pouring Coke on it or
> > > something?
> > > > > I also suspect my ignition cylinder isn't doing so well.
> > > The
> > > > spring
> > > > > inside must be broken because the key deosn't return to
> > > the ON
> > > > > position after the engine starts (when it was running). I
> > > > tried to
> > > > > jiggle the key when starting but that doesn't work. How
> > > can i
> > > > test
> > > > > this? I figure put a test light on a circuit that gets
> > > > energized when
> > > > > the key is turned to the START position but which wire?
> > > > > [snip]
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------- ------
> > > ---------
> > > > > --
> > > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------- ------
> > > ---------
> > > > > --
> > > of
> > > > Service.

[turbotwo]

Bill - Thanks for the excellent straight forward explanation. I tried
all this and it wouldn't start. I would hear a faint clicking. I
tried it several times and on two occasions the motor started
spinning. Given this I would think the solenoid is bad. I took the
starter apart and the brushes look a bit worn but should still be
making contact. It is totally greasy grimy in there. I also wonder
if the little cable that extends between the motor and the solenoid is
providing a good connection. It looks simple to rebuild but I'm
thinking i should just leave it to a professional.
Is there a way to test the starter motor separately from the solenoid?

[dealadayray]

I have read enough to know that your starter is not going to work no matter
what you do short of having it rebuilt. And as far as the shop that said
they couldn't test it, well I'd think twice before going back there.
Give a call to Marc's One XXX-XXX-XXXX and ask what it will cost to have it
rebuilt. They build them for anything. And, I have had several bendex
drives rebuilt for a lot less than you would think.
Bill Colford

[stevenmichelsen2]

Sure, there's always a way. In this case you can treat the starter
as just a motor. Repeat as you did earlier and hook a battery gound
to the case. Then hook the positive from the battery to the terminal
on the solenoid that goes into the motor. You're bypassing the
solenoid/switch this way. But...I've got to tell you that electrical
things usually work or they don't. Faint clicking...motor
spinning...these things don't fit the either do or don't senario.
I'm not there and I don't want to offend, I just don't know your
mechanical ability level...are you sure you are getting a full 12/13
volts? A weak battery will do what you're describing. If voltage is
good, even under a load, and the voltage doesn't drop drastically,
then the solenoid could be bad. They're simple and if you can take
it apart, you can most likely fix it. All it is, is an
electromagnet, that pulls a large flat washer to touch the ends of
the "B" an "M" terminals, to make the same connection you did
earlier. The washer and the terminal(they're copper bolts) get
pocked from arcing. When ther're no longer smooth they can't make
good contact. A light filing or sandpaper will clean this up. As
long as you don't try relieving your frustration with a hammer on
anything, you can still always take it to a rebuilder if you want. I
personally get more satisfaction from "fixing it myself" than
driving could ever give me. That's not everbody I realize so if I
start to bore you, I understand. Bill--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, " " wrote:

> Bill - Thanks for the excellent straight forward explanation. I tried
> all this and it wouldn't start. I would hear a faint clicking. I
> tried it several times and on two occasions the motor started
> spinning. Given this I would think the solenoid is bad. I took the
> starter apart and the brushes look a bit worn but should still be
> making contact. It is totally greasy grimy in there. I also wonder
> if the little cable that extends between the motor and the solenoid is
> providing a good connection. It looks simple to rebuild but I'm
> thinking i should just leave it to a professional.
> Is there a way to test the starter motor separately from the solenoid?
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> wrote:
> > Easy, hook a jumper cable to the starter housing (a clean, non
> > painted spot) and the other end to the (-)terminal on a good
> > battery. Hook the other
> > jumper cable to the (+)terminal on the battery and the other end to
> > the
> > terminal on your starter where the battery cable was. Now take a
> > wire, a remote starter switch(best), screw driver(better than
> > nothing)...anything that will make a connection from where the
> > battery(+) cable hooks to the starter, to where the small wire was
> > hooked to the solenoid(thats where the wire that delivers juice from
> > key, when you turn it to start, hooks). Hold on to the starter when
> > you make the last connection, if all is good, it will travel! If it
> > just clicks then your solenoid is good, starter bad. Also, the
> > question about the terminals marked "M" and "B". They stand for motor
> > (as in starter motor) and battery. Yours are hooked up backwards it
> > sounds, but it doesn't matter. The solenoid is just a switch...power
> > in, power out(electricity will flow either direction). The small
> > wire is the source of the energy to turn that switch on. Releasing
> > the key, off. I'm trying not to make this too long and yet not leave
> > stuff out. Bill--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " "
> > wrote:
> > > Okay I took the starter to my local auto parts store and they can't
> > > test it. Too old they say! Geez. So can i just hook up a
> > battery to
> > > it? How do I replicate the lead from the ignition switch to
> > actually
> > > start the thing?
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > > > Thanks for the voltmeter tip. I am fairly familiar with using
> > one. I
> > > > should go out and get one anyways.
> > > > I did remove the starter today and will test it tomorrow. I
> > have a
> > > > service manual and noticed it shows the thick uninsulated
> > stranded
> > > > wire connected to the "M" terminal, but on my starter its
> > connected to
> > > > the other one, the "B" terminal. There's also a smaller black
> > wire
> > > > that isn't shown in the service manual. What are the correct
> > > > locations of the 3 wires on the starter looking at the back of
> > the
> > > > solenoid? I'm talking about the starter cable (positive battery
> > > > cable), the small black wire coming out of the solenoid, and the
> > > > stranded thicker wire coming out of the starter housing through a
> > > > rubber cover?
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> >
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > OK, if you were familiar with using a volt meter, this would
> > be over
> > > > > by now. It's not, so I'll assume you're not. Go buy a cheap 12
> > volt
> > > > > volt meter, available at most any place that sells even the
> > simplest
> > > > > of auto
> > > > > parts. Get familiar with how it works. Touch the negative probe
> > > > > (black wire)to the negative(-) battery terminal and touch the
> > other
> > > > > probe(red wire) to the positive(+) terminal on the battery.
> > The
> > > > > meter should show between 12 and 14 volts. If it does, the
> > battery
> > > > > is good. If not, correct the problem. Next do the same, only
> > probe
> > > > > the battery cable clamps to make sure the juice is making it
> > out of
> > > > > the battery. Clean the terminals/clamps if not. If OK, next
> > touch
> > > > > the red
> > > > > probe to the terminal on the starter where the large cable is
> > > > > attached. Keep the black probe on the negative battery
> > terminal. You
> > > > > should have 12 to 14 volts showing. Now keep the black probe
> > where
> > > > > it is, the red probe touched to the small wire that is
> > attached to
> > > > > the starter and have someone turn the ignition key(as if
> > starting
> > > > > the car). CAREFUL!!! where you put your body parts, there is a
> > > > > chance it might start. If you get voltage when you do this,
> > then
> > > > > your starter is most likely toast. If not, your ignion switch
> > isn't
> > > > > doing it's job. You'd want to test the ignition switch using
> > similar
> > > > > test as you've just done, to be sure. Lets not go there yet. I
> > hope
> > > > > I made this simple without going on too long and I hope it
> > helps. Be
> > > > > careful, 12 volts will not shock you, but unexpected movement,
> > loose
> > > > > clothing, and/or jewelry gounding out can be dangerous. Bill --
> > -
> > > > > In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > > > > > What do you mean the "back side of the ignition key
> > assembly"?
> > > > > > I also notice a few electrical terminals that are not
> > connected to
> > > > > > anything. Notably one below the coil that looks like it
> > should be
> > > > > > connected so i plugged the two wires together, its bundled
> > with
> > > > > > several other white wires. Does anyone have a quick list of
> > > > > > what/where are the unused connectors?
> > > > > > Marshall-Are you telling me you bump started your 600 for a
> > whole
> > > > > year
> > > > > > during college? Wow, i thought i did some strange things
> > during
> > > > > > college days.
> > > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford"
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Hi Marshall;
> > > > > > > The simple fix is to locate a new switch for the back
> > side
> > > > > of the
> > > > > > > ignition key assembly. It is the same for either Sedan or
> > > > > Coupe. Often
> > > > > > > they either ground out or the return spring jams or brakes
> > > > > causing the
> > > > > > > starter to stay engaged.
> > > > > > > About once a season I need to clean all the exterior
> > bulb
> > > > > > carriers, and
> > > > > > > often the battery terminals come lose or the connections
> > become
> > > > > > corroded
> > > > > > > enough to insulate the contact. Normally its an easy
> > cleaning.
> > > > > But
> > > > > > to start
> > > > > > > adding this or that toggle switch often leads to more
> > problems.
> > > > > > > Unwrap your wire harness in the engine compt and make
> > sure
> > > > > > nothing is
> > > > > > > melted. If it is, replace it by cutting out the wire and
> > > > > soldering
> > > > > > in a new
> > > > > > > wire in its place.
> > > > > > > Bill
> > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > From: Marshall Montchalin [mailto:kf6pbg@y...]
> > > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:29 AM
> > > > > > > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Car won't turn over- How
> > to
> > > > > bench test
> > > > > > > starter?
> > > > > > > A DOZEN REASONS:
> > > > > > > OOops a lot of static got on the line probably by my
> > own
> > > > > > fault--- Let
> > > > > > > me make amends by admitting that too frequently one
> > problem has
> > > > > a dozen
> > > > > > > possible reasons or causes which are all present when one
> > tries
> > > > > to
> > > > > > return to
> > > > > > > launch-normal status, always making me feel like an idiot
> > that I
> > > > > > didn't know
> > > > > > > the SQR(13) by heart. I hope I didn't make you feel as I
> > too
> > > > > frequently
> > > > > > > feel.
> > > > > > > #1 replacing the key with switches is just a thought to
> > > > > eliminate
> > > > > > possible
> > > > > > > key failures
> > > > > > > For trouble-shooting I had a brake light bulb(OK to use
> > > > > Detroit)
> > > > > > with two
> > > > > > > wires soldered to it with alligator clips on the end: this
> > works
> > > > > > with only
> > > > > > > the one alligator clipwire soldered to the tip of the base
> > of
> > > > > the brake
> > > > > > > light... Clip to your points and ground the bulb by
> > holding it to
> > > > > > the block
> > > > > > > so that the points will light up if open, or you can clip
> > to
> > > > > positive
> > > > > > > battery and the points will light up the light when they
> > close so
> > > > > > you can
> > > > > > > time the car with the ignition only by turning the engine
> > by
> > > > > wrench
> > > > > > to the
> > > > > > > Fire position then setting the points to almost
> > close/open. This
> > > > > is
> > > > > > called
> > > > > > > "Static Timing" because the engine is not "Dynamic",
> > meaning I
> > > > > live
> > > > > > close to
> > > > > > > Hillsboro.
> > > > > > > This same timing light can be used to detect power on
> > any wire.
> > > > > > Hope this
> > > > > > > idea helps.
> > > > > > > HONDA had good connectors, but everything gets old and
> > > > > corroded.
> > > > > > DO spray,
> > > > > > > but unplug-plug-unplug-plug the suspected connections
> > whilst
> > > > > > spraying and
> > > > > > > leave them plugged back together. FYI- WD40 is conductive,
> > so
> > > > > dont
> > > > > > spray it
> > > > > > > on the distributor of a newer car.
> > > > > > > TAKE SPECIAL CARE WHILST bump-starting, maybe use third
> > > > > instead of
> > > > > > second
> > > > > > > for gentler starting. Another good idea is to make a wire
> > with
> > > > > > alligators on
> > > > > > > both ends instead of using switches to replace the key. I
> > don't
> > > > > know
> > > > > > much
> > > > > > > about starters, unfortunately, because when mine went out
> > I
> > > > > drove it
> > > > > > without
> > > > > > > one while going to college for about a year until I got a
> > new car
> > > > > > many years
> > > > > > > ago. All of this talk about 600s has gotten me hungry to
> > upgrade
> > > > > to a
> > > > > > > smaller car. Sorry if I talk too much.
> > > > > > > Marshall
> > > > > > > Marshall Montchalin
> > > > > > > Finally, the world thanks you for your decision to
> > drive a
> > > > > > beautiful car
> > > > > > > like the 600.
> > > > > > > Curse Detroit.
> > > > > > > Love, Marshall
> > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Yes that ugly green stuff, its everywhere its not
> > supposed
> > > > > to be,
> > > > > > > haha. I haven't tried bump starting it in 2nd but
> > i'll
> > > > > try that
> > > > > > > today. I was thinking of trying to source out
> > certain
> > > > > plastic
> > > > > > > electrical connectors and then re-crimping those
> > > > > terminals.
> > > > > > Or what
> > > > > > > about trying to clean it by pouring Coke on it or
> > > > > something?
> > > > > > > I also suspect my ignition cylinder isn't doing so
> > well.
> > > > > The
> > > > > > spring
> > > > > > > inside must be broken because the key deosn't return
> > to
> > > > > the ON
> > > > > > > position after the engine starts (when it was
> > running). I
> > > > > > tried to
> > > > > > > jiggle the key when starting but that doesn't work.
> > How
> > > > > can i
> > > > > > test
> > > > > > > this? I figure put a test light on a circuit that
> > gets
> > > > > > energized when
> > > > > > > the key is turned to the START position but which
> > wire?
> > > > > > > [snip]
> > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------- ----
> > ------
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > > > --
> > > > > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > > > > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------- ----
> > ------
> > > > > ---------
> > > > > > > --
> > Terms
> > > > > of
> > > > > > Service.

[turbotwo]

I'm sure I can tear into this but I think i'll just have someone go
through it and rebuild it. I feel i'm pretty good technically, heck I
do own an auto shop and have a degree in mechanical engineering. But
i just don't have the time! Uggghh! I feel guilty for even working
on this thing when i should be doing something else like, ohhh,
prepare my tax documents, haha. But thanks for all the great advice.
Everyone on this group has been great.

[stevenmichelsen2]

Probably best if it's not your thing. But...I'd highly recommend
fixing your ignition key problem before using your rebuilt starter.
If it were to stick in the start position, it could have started
this whole thing. When your starter spins the engine, it's turning
at
maybe ten revolutions for every one the engine turns. Once
the engine starts, and if the bendix didn't release, the starter
would be turning ten times faster than the engine.
Centrifugal force takes over from there...gooodbye rebuilt starter.
Bill--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, " " wrote:
I'm sure I can tear into this but I think i'll just have someone go

> through it and rebuild it. I feel i'm pretty good technically, heck I
> do own an auto shop and have a degree in mechanical engineering. But
> i just don't have the time! Uggghh! I feel guilty for even working
> on this thing when i should be doing something else like, ohhh,
> prepare my tax documents, haha. But thanks for all the great advice.
> Everyone on this group has been great.
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> wrote:
> > Sure, there's always a way. In this case you can treat the starter
> > as just a motor. Repeat as you did earlier and hook a battery gound
> > to the case. Then hook the positive from the battery to the terminal
> > on the solenoid that goes into the motor. You're bypassing the
> > solenoid/switch this way. But...I've got to tell you that electrical
> > things usually work or they don't. Faint clicking...motor
> > spinning...these things don't fit the either do or don't senario.
> > I'm not there and I don't want to offend, I just don't know your
> > mechanical ability level...are you sure you are getting a full 12/13
> > volts? A weak battery will do what you're describing. If voltage is
> > good, even under a load, and the voltage doesn't drop drastically,
> > then the solenoid could be bad. They're simple and if you can take
> > it apart, you can most likely fix it. All it is, is an
> > electromagnet, that pulls a large flat washer to touch the ends of
> > the "B" an "M" terminals, to make the same connection you did
> > earlier. The washer and the terminal(they're copper bolts) get
> > pocked from arcing. When ther're no longer smooth they can't make
> > good contact. A light filing or sandpaper will clean this up. As
> > long as you don't try relieving your frustration with a hammer on
> > anything, you can still always take it to a rebuilder if you want. I
> > personally get more satisfaction from "fixing it myself" than
> > driving could ever give me. That's not everbody I realize so if I
> > start to bore you, I understand. Bill--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " " wrote:
> > > Bill - Thanks for the excellent straight forward explanation. I
> > tried
> > > all this and it wouldn't start. I would hear a faint clicking. I
> > > tried it several times and on two occasions the motor started
> > > spinning. Given this I would think the solenoid is bad. I took
> > the
> > > starter apart and the brushes look a bit worn but should still be
> > > making contact. It is totally greasy grimy in there. I also
> > wonder
> > > if the little cable that extends between the motor and the
> > solenoid is
> > > providing a good connection. It looks simple to rebuild but I'm
> > > thinking i should just leave it to a professional.
> > > Is there a way to test the starter motor separately from the
> > solenoid?
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> >
> > > wrote:
> > > > Easy, hook a jumper cable to the starter housing (a clean, non
> > > > painted spot) and the other end to the (-)terminal on a good
> > > > battery. Hook the other
> > > > jumper cable to the (+)terminal on the battery and the other end
> > to
> > > > the
> > > > terminal on your starter where the battery cable was. Now take a
> > > > wire, a remote starter switch(best), screw driver(better than
> > > > nothing)...anything that will make a connection from where the
> > > > battery(+) cable hooks to the starter, to where the small wire
> > was
> > > > hooked to the solenoid(thats where the wire that delivers juice
> > from
> > > > key, when you turn it to start, hooks). Hold on to the starter
> > when
> > > > you make the last connection, if all is good, it will travel! If
> > it
> > > > just clicks then your solenoid is good, starter bad. Also, the
> > > > question about the terminals marked "M" and "B". They stand for
> > motor
> > > > (as in starter motor) and battery. Yours are hooked up backwards
> > it
> > > > sounds, but it doesn't matter. The solenoid is just a
> > switch...power
> > > > in, power out(electricity will flow either direction). The small
> > > > wire is the source of the energy to turn that switch on.
> > Releasing
> > > > the key, off. I'm trying not to make this too long and yet not
> > leave
> > > > stuff out. Bill--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " "
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Okay I took the starter to my local auto parts store and they
> > can't
> > > > > test it. Too old they say! Geez. So can i just hook up a
> > > > battery to
> > > > > it? How do I replicate the lead from the ignition switch to
> > > > actually
> > > > > start the thing?
> > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " "
> > wrote:
> > > > > > Thanks for the voltmeter tip. I am fairly familiar with
> > using
> > > > one. I
> > > > > > should go out and get one anyways.
> > > > > > I did remove the starter today and will test it tomorrow. I
> > > > have a
> > > > > > service manual and noticed it shows the thick uninsulated
> > > > stranded
> > > > > > wire connected to the "M" terminal, but on my starter its
> > > > connected to
> > > > > > the other one, the "B" terminal. There's also a smaller
> > black
> > > > wire
> > > > > > that isn't shown in the service manual. What are the correct
> > > > > > locations of the 3 wires on the starter looking at the back
> > of
> > > > the
> > > > > > solenoid? I'm talking about the starter cable (positive
> > battery
> > > > > > cable), the small black wire coming out of the solenoid, and
> > the
> > > > > > stranded thicker wire coming out of the starter housing
> > through a
> > > > > > rubber cover?
> > > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "billranney1952"
> > > >
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > OK, if you were familiar with using a volt meter, this
> > would
> > > > be over
> > > > > > > by now. It's not, so I'll assume you're not. Go buy a
> > cheap 12
> > > > volt
> > > > > > > volt meter, available at most any place that sells even
> > the
> > > > simplest
> > > > > > > of auto
> > > > > > > parts. Get familiar with how it works. Touch the negative
> > probe
> > > > > > > (black wire)to the negative(-) battery terminal and touch
> > the
> > > > other
> > > > > > > probe(red wire) to the positive(+) terminal on the
> > battery.
> > > > The
> > > > > > > meter should show between 12 and 14 volts. If it does, the
> > > > battery
> > > > > > > is good. If not, correct the problem. Next do the same,
> > only
> > > > probe
> > > > > > > the battery cable clamps to make sure the juice is making
> > it
> > > > out of
> > > > > > > the battery. Clean the terminals/clamps if not. If OK,
> > next
> > > > touch
> > > > > > > the red
> > > > > > > probe to the terminal on the starter where the large cable
> > is
> > > > > > > attached. Keep the black probe on the negative battery
> > > > terminal. You
> > > > > > > should have 12 to 14 volts showing. Now keep the black
> > probe
> > > > where
> > > > > > > it is, the red probe touched to the small wire that is
> > > > attached to
> > > > > > > the starter and have someone turn the ignition key(as if
> > > > starting
> > > > > > > the car). CAREFUL!!! where you put your body parts, there
> > is a
> > > > > > > chance it might start. If you get voltage when you do
> > this,
> > > > then
> > > > > > > your starter is most likely toast. If not, your ignion
> > switch
> > > > isn't
> > > > > > > doing it's job. You'd want to test the ignition switch
> > using
> > > > similar
> > > > > > > test as you've just done, to be sure. Lets not go there
> > yet. I
> > > > hope
> > > > > > > I made this simple without going on too long and I hope it
> > > > helps. Be
> > > > > > > careful, 12 volts will not shock you, but unexpected
> > movement,
> > > > loose
> > > > > > > clothing, and/or jewelry gounding out can be dangerous.
> > Bill --
> > > > -
> > > > > > > In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, " "
> > wrote:
> > > > > > > > What do you mean the "back side of the ignition key
> > > > assembly"?
> > > > > > > > I also notice a few electrical terminals that are not
> > > > connected to
> > > > > > > > anything. Notably one below the coil that looks like it
> > > > should be
> > > > > > > > connected so i plugged the two wires together, its
> > bundled
> > > > with
> > > > > > > > several other white wires. Does anyone have a quick
> > list of
> > > > > > > > what/where are the unused connectors?
> > > > > > > > Marshall-Are you telling me you bump started your 600
> > for a
> > > > whole
> > > > > > > year
> > > > > > > > during college? Wow, i thought i did some strange
> > things
> > > > during
> > > > > > > > college days.
> > > > > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford"
> > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Hi Marshall;
> > > > > > > > > The simple fix is to locate a new switch for the
> > back
> > > > side
> > > > > > > of the
> > > > > > > > > ignition key assembly. It is the same for either
> > Sedan or
> > > > > > > Coupe. Often
> > > > > > > > > they either ground out or the return spring jams or
> > brakes
> > > > > > > causing the
> > > > > > > > > starter to stay engaged.
> > > > > > > > > About once a season I need to clean all the
> > exterior
> > > > bulb
> > > > > > > > carriers, and
> > > > > > > > > often the battery terminals come lose or the
> > connections
> > > > become
> > > > > > > > corroded
> > > > > > > > > enough to insulate the contact. Normally its an easy
> > > > cleaning.
> > > > > > > But
> > > > > > > > to start
> > > > > > > > > adding this or that toggle switch often leads to more
> > > > problems.
> > > > > > > > > Unwrap your wire harness in the engine compt and
> > make
> > > > sure
> > > > > > > > nothing is
> > > > > > > > > melted. If it is, replace it by cutting out the wire
> > and
> > > > > > > soldering
> > > > > > > > in a new
> > > > > > > > > wire in its place.
> > > > > > > > > Bill
> > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > > > > From: Marshall Montchalin [mailto:kf6pbg@y...]
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:29 AM
> > > > > > > > > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Car won't turn over-
> > How
> > > > to
> > > > > > > bench test
> > > > > > > > > starter?
> > > > > > > > > A DOZEN REASONS:
> > > > > > > > > OOops a lot of static got on the line probably
> > by my
> > > > own
> > > > > > > > fault--- Let
> > > > > > > > > me make amends by admitting that too frequently one
> > > > problem has
> > > > > > > a dozen
> > > > > > > > > possible reasons or causes which are all present when
> > one
> > > > tries
> > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > return to
> > > > > > > > > launch-normal status, always making me feel like an
> > idiot
> > > > that I
> > > > > > > > didn't know
> > > > > > > > > the SQR(13) by heart. I hope I didn't make you feel as
> > I
> > > > too
> > > > > > > frequently
> > > > > > > > > feel.
> > > > > > > > > #1 replacing the key with switches is just a thought
> > to
> > > > > > > eliminate
> > > > > > > > possible
> > > > > > > > > key failures
> > > > > > > > > For trouble-shooting I had a brake light bulb(OK to
> > use
> > > > > > > Detroit)
> > > > > > > > with two
> > > > > > > > > wires soldered to it with alligator clips on the end:
> > this
> > > > works
> > > > > > > > with only
> > > > > > > > > the one alligator clipwire soldered to the tip of the
> > base
> > > > of
> > > > > > > the brake
> > > > > > > > > light... Clip to your points and ground the bulb by
> > > > holding it to
> > > > > > > > the block
> > > > > > > > > so that the points will light up if open, or you can
> > clip
> > > > to
> > > > > > > positive
> > > > > > > > > battery and the points will light up the light when
> > they
> > > > close so
> > > > > > > > you can
> > > > > > > > > time the car with the ignition only by turning the
> > engine
> > > > by
> > > > > > > wrench
> > > > > > > > to the
> > > > > > > > > Fire position then setting the points to almost
> > > > close/open. This
> > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > called
> > > > > > > > > "Static Timing" because the engine is not "Dynamic",
> > > > meaning I
> > > > > > > live
> > > > > > > > close to
> > > > > > > > > Hillsboro.
> > > > > > > > > This same timing light can be used to detect power
> > on
> > > > any wire.
> > > > > > > > Hope this
> > > > > > > > > idea helps.
> > > > > > > > > HONDA had good connectors, but everything gets old
> > and
> > > > > > > corroded.
> > > > > > > > DO spray,
> > > > > > > > > but unplug-plug-unplug-plug the suspected connections
> > > > whilst
> > > > > > > > spraying and
> > > > > > > > > leave them plugged back together. FYI- WD40 is
> > conductive,
> > > > so
> > > > > > > dont
> > > > > > > > spray it
> > > > > > > > > on the distributor of a newer car.
> > > > > > > > > TAKE SPECIAL CARE WHILST bump-starting, maybe use
> > third
> > > > > > > instead of
> > > > > > > > second
> > > > > > > > > for gentler starting. Another good idea is to make a
> > wire
> > > > with
> > > > > > > > alligators on
> > > > > > > > > both ends instead of using switches to replace the
> > key. I
> > > > don't
> > > > > > > know
> > > > > > > > much
> > > > > > > > > about starters, unfortunately, because when mine went
> > out
> > > > I
> > > > > > > drove it
> > > > > > > > without
> > > > > > > > > one while going to college for about a year until I
> > got a
> > > > new car
> > > > > > > > many years
> > > > > > > > > ago. All of this talk about 600s has gotten me hungry
> > to
> > > > upgrade
> > > > > > > to a
> > > > > > > > > smaller car. Sorry if I talk too much.
> > > > > > > > > Marshall
> > > > > > > > > Marshall Montchalin
> > > > > > > > > Finally, the world thanks you for your decision to
> > > > drive a
> > > > > > > > beautiful car
> > > > > > > > > like the 600.
> > > > > > > > > Curse Detroit.
> > > > > > > > > Love, Marshall
> > > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Yes that ugly green stuff, its everywhere its
> > not
> > > > supposed
> > > > > > > to be,
> > > > > > > > > haha. I haven't tried bump starting it in 2nd
> > but
> > > > i'll
> > > > > > > try that
> > > > > > > > > today. I was thinking of trying to source out
> > > > certain
> > > > > > > plastic
> > > > > > > > > electrical connectors and then re-crimping those
> > > > > > > terminals.
> > > > > > > > Or what
> > > > > > > > > about trying to clean it by pouring Coke on it
> > or
> > > > > > > something?
> > > > > > > > > I also suspect my ignition cylinder isn't doing
> > so
> > > > well.
> > > > > > > The
> > > > > > > > spring
> > > > > > > > > inside must be broken because the key deosn't
> > return
> > > > to
> > > > > > > the ON
> > > > > > > > > position after the engine starts (when it was
> > > > running). I
> > > > > > > > tried to
> > > > > > > > > jiggle the key when starting but that doesn't
> > work.
> > > > How
> > > > > > > can i
> > > > > > > > test
> > > > > > > > > this? I figure put a test light on a circuit
> > that
> > > > gets
> > > > > > > > energized when
> > > > > > > > > the key is turned to the START position but
> > which
> > > > wire?
> > > > > > > > > [snip]
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