I have a 71 Sedan that I trying to make road worthy again.
The mastercyclinder is leaking. I don't see any drips from the unit itself, but where it mounts to the firewall and below is wet. I have seen master cyclinders for sale from $195 to $185, with exchange. A local mom & pop autoparts says they can get one for $50. Any idea of why there is such a large disparity?
I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild anyway. Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good rebuild kits avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but not a auto mechanic either.
Thanks for your advice.
Harper
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
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Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
-
Harper Munro
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:20 am
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
You may find the most of the fluid is in inside the car on the
firewall. I had O'Conner rebuild both of my master cylinders with
only a problem with one but he fixed that and i would buy from him
again. He also works on the carbs though you may find a cleaning will
work. They sure are a work in progress i have two and selling one now
but may need to rebuild the one i am keeping. The guy i bougtht it
from said he rebuld it but it only has about 110 compression.
or--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, Harper Munro
wrote:
have seen master cyclinders for sale from $195 to $185, with
exchange. A local mom & pop autoparts says they can get one for
$50. Any idea of why there is such a large disparity?
anyway. Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good
rebuild kits avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but
not a auto mechanic either.
firewall. I had O'Conner rebuild both of my master cylinders with
only a problem with one but he fixed that and i would buy from him
again. He also works on the carbs though you may find a cleaning will
work. They sure are a work in progress i have two and selling one now
but may need to rebuild the one i am keeping. The guy i bougtht it
from said he rebuld it but it only has about 110 compression.
or--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, Harper Munro
wrote:
unit itself, but where it mounts to the firewall and below is wet. I> I have a 71 Sedan that I trying to make road worthy again.
> The mastercyclinder is leaking. I don't see any drips from the
have seen master cyclinders for sale from $195 to $185, with
exchange. A local mom & pop autoparts says they can get one for
$50. Any idea of why there is such a large disparity?
with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild> I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem
anyway. Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good
rebuild kits avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but
not a auto mechanic either.
> Thanks for your advice.
> Harper
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
Harper;
Where is it leaking from?
Disparity comes from the product, Honda sold them brand new for $168.24 in 1996. So add a few years and I would be wondering where Mom n Pop got their's. $185.00 is a good price for Brass Sleeved fresh seals and check valves.
Bill
Where is it leaking from?
Disparity comes from the product, Honda sold them brand new for $168.24 in 1996. So add a few years and I would be wondering where Mom n Pop got their's. $185.00 is a good price for Brass Sleeved fresh seals and check valves.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Harper
> Munro
> Sent:
> Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:59 PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners]
> Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
> I have a 71 Sedan that I trying to make road worthy again.
> The mastercyclinder is leaking. I don't see any drips from the > unit itself, but where it mounts to the firewall and below is wet.
> I have seen master cyclinders for sale from $195 to $185, with > exchange. A local mom & pop autoparts says they can get > one for $50. Any idea of why there is such a large disparity?
> I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem > with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild anyway.
> Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good rebuild kits > avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but not a > auto mechanic either.
> Thanks for your advice.
> Harper
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
> Play Sims
> Stories at Yahoo! Games.
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
Since you were seeing rust particles in your fuel, some of them did enter the carb. After the fuel enters the carb, it passes through a mini-filter which is attached to the needle/seat in the area of the fuel float. Remove the bowl from the carb and check how clean it is.
Remove the needle & seat under the float (it is held in place by a screw. Clean it out. Check the screen filter and clean it out (it is attached to the seat).
With the bowl off, you will be able to see the fuel jets in the center section of the carb's main body....clean them out. You can use a spray can of carb cleaner.
While you have the carb apart, recheck the level of the float.
Attach a hose to the fuel inlet of the carb and then put the hose in your mouth.
Blow into the line and try moving the float up/down. As the float is lowered against the needle/seat, you should not be able to blow air into the carb. Measure the float height at this point.
The carb on a 600 is simple to work on. The biggest problems I have seen are the interior passages of the carb get plugged in the areas of the idle circuit and accelerator pump. Also, the o-rings at the needle/seat, fuel jets, and accelerator pump need replacing, or the needle/seat need replacing. Also, check that you have a good o-ring at the fuel cut-off solenoid.
If you need to soak your carb in a can of carburetor cleaner, be sure to remove all the neoprene o-rings and gaskets before placing the carb in the can of cleaner. Put only metal parts into the cleaner. You will need to remove the diaphragm at the accelerator pump before putting the carb in the cleaner. When you re-assemble the carb, the only item which needs to be measured is the float level. Everything else either is plugged back into place or screwed together.
As far as finding parts, I am not sure who is selling the needle & seats. The o-rings can be found at auto parts/hardware stores or o-ring manufacturers. The fuel jets rarely are worn out but can be damaged if someone has tried to scrape or drill into them. The neoprene gasket which mates with the float bowl can be reused.
good luck,
Dale
Remove the needle & seat under the float (it is held in place by a screw. Clean it out. Check the screen filter and clean it out (it is attached to the seat).
With the bowl off, you will be able to see the fuel jets in the center section of the carb's main body....clean them out. You can use a spray can of carb cleaner.
While you have the carb apart, recheck the level of the float.
Attach a hose to the fuel inlet of the carb and then put the hose in your mouth.
Blow into the line and try moving the float up/down. As the float is lowered against the needle/seat, you should not be able to blow air into the carb. Measure the float height at this point.
The carb on a 600 is simple to work on. The biggest problems I have seen are the interior passages of the carb get plugged in the areas of the idle circuit and accelerator pump. Also, the o-rings at the needle/seat, fuel jets, and accelerator pump need replacing, or the needle/seat need replacing. Also, check that you have a good o-ring at the fuel cut-off solenoid.
If you need to soak your carb in a can of carburetor cleaner, be sure to remove all the neoprene o-rings and gaskets before placing the carb in the can of cleaner. Put only metal parts into the cleaner. You will need to remove the diaphragm at the accelerator pump before putting the carb in the cleaner. When you re-assemble the carb, the only item which needs to be measured is the float level. Everything else either is plugged back into place or screwed together.
As far as finding parts, I am not sure who is selling the needle & seats. The o-rings can be found at auto parts/hardware stores or o-ring manufacturers. The fuel jets rarely are worn out but can be damaged if someone has tried to scrape or drill into them. The neoprene gasket which mates with the float bowl can be reused.
good luck,
Dale
See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage .> I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem > with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild anyway.
> Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good rebuild kits > avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but not a > auto mechanic either.
Re: Leaking master cylinder / carb rebuild kits?
To add a bit more to what Dale has already said,
Watch what kind of rubber you put into your carb. The early Honda gold wing carb's (4) kits will have most of the rubber you need. But, the fuel your getting at the pump these days has stuff that will eat away at the rubber in your carb. Look for Viton O rings.
Cleaning your carb with compressed air is a must, and read the labels on the different types of carb cleaner on the shelves. Not all of it is that great these days. Degreaser is just about as good if not better in some cases. Don't use gas, it will not do the job and can be a real hazard when rags become soaked and can spontaneously combust. Then the rest of your weekend is used up putting out real fires.
Also, in the later (Honda Cars) carb's the ventury butterfly shaft has two seals (one on each end) I have found more carb's that lose vacuum and won't idle because the seal is bad or the shaft is worn. Otherwise the carb looks great. The test for this is to spray on some WD40 or Carb cleaner on the shaft ends, if things change, well you found the problem.
Bill
Watch what kind of rubber you put into your carb. The early Honda gold wing carb's (4) kits will have most of the rubber you need. But, the fuel your getting at the pump these days has stuff that will eat away at the rubber in your carb. Look for Viton O rings.
Cleaning your carb with compressed air is a must, and read the labels on the different types of carb cleaner on the shelves. Not all of it is that great these days. Degreaser is just about as good if not better in some cases. Don't use gas, it will not do the job and can be a real hazard when rags become soaked and can spontaneously combust. Then the rest of your weekend is used up putting out real fires.
Also, in the later (Honda Cars) carb's the ventury butterfly shaft has two seals (one on each end) I have found more carb's that lose vacuum and won't idle because the seal is bad or the shaft is worn. Otherwise the carb looks great. The test for this is to spray on some WD40 or Carb cleaner on the shaft ends, if things change, well you found the problem.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> goinhm@...
> Sent:
> Monday, October 01, 2007 2:54
> AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild > kits?
> Since you were seeing rust particles in your fuel, some of them did > enter the carb. After the fuel enters the carb, it passes > through a mini-filter which is attached to the needle/seat in the area of the > fuel float. Remove the bowl from the carb and check how clean it > is. Remove the needle & seat under the float (it is held in place by > a screw. Clean it out. Check the screen filter and clean it out > (it is attached to the seat).
> With the bowl off, you will be able to see the fuel jets in the > center section of the carb's main body....clean them out. You can use a > spray can of carb cleaner.
> While you have the carb apart, recheck the level of the
> float. Attach a hose to the fuel inlet of the carb and then put the hose > in your mouth. Blow into the line and try moving the float up/down. As > the float is lowered against the needle/seat, you should not be able to > blow air into the carb. Measure the float height at this point.
> The carb on a 600 is simple to work on. The biggest problems I have > seen are the interior passages of the carb get plugged in the areas of > the idle circuit and accelerator pump. Also, the o-rings at the > needle/seat, fuel jets, and accelerator pump need replacing, or > the needle/seat need replacing. Also, check that you have a good > o-ring at the fuel cut-off solenoid.
> If you need to soak your carb in a can of carburetor cleaner, be > sure to remove all the neoprene o-rings and gaskets before placing the carb in > the can of cleaner. Put only metal parts into the cleaner.
> You will need to remove the diaphragm at the accelerator pump before putting > the carb in the cleaner. When you re-assemble the carb, the > only item which needs to be measured is the float level.
> Everything else either is plugged back into place or screwed together.
> As far as finding parts, I am not sure who is selling the needle > & seats. The o-rings can be found at auto parts/hardware stores or > o-ring manufacturers. The fuel jets rarely are worn out but can be > damaged if someone has tried to scrape or drill into them. The neoprene > gasket which mates with the float bowl can be reused.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem > > with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild anyway.
> > Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good rebuild kits > > avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but not a > > auto mechanic either.
> See what's new at
> AOL.com
> and
> Make AOL Your Homepage
> .
-
Kevin Lister
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:24 pm
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
I'd like to chime in on this. ;o)
I recently rebuilt my carb. I had to take it apart and put the parts in a degreaser overnight. I bought a rebuild kit and installed it.
One of the jets in the rebuild kit was bored to small. This caused the car to not run well and in some cases not at all!
I had Mile look at it and he discovered the undersized jet. and put the old one back in. After Miles adjusted the float, mixture, and idle, the car runs like new and I'm getting around 35 mpg!
Before I rebuilt the carb the car got 20mpg, didn't idle properly, had no power, and just didn't run well in general. It's amazing how something as simple as cleaning and rebuilding the carb can make such a difference! The car is so reliable now that I drive it everywhere.
kev tdthies1
wrote:
I recently rebuilt my carb. I had to take it apart and put the parts in a degreaser overnight. I bought a rebuild kit and installed it.
One of the jets in the rebuild kit was bored to small. This caused the car to not run well and in some cases not at all!
I had Mile look at it and he discovered the undersized jet. and put the old one back in. After Miles adjusted the float, mixture, and idle, the car runs like new and I'm getting around 35 mpg!
Before I rebuilt the carb the car got 20mpg, didn't idle properly, had no power, and just didn't run well in general. It's amazing how something as simple as cleaning and rebuilding the carb can make such a difference! The car is so reliable now that I drive it everywhere.
kev tdthies1
wrote:
> You may find the most of the fluid is in inside the car on the > firewall. I had O'Conner rebuild both of my master cylinders with > only a problem with one but he fixed that and i would buy from him > again. He also works on the carbs though you may find a cleaning will > work. They sure are a work in progress i have two and selling one now > but may need to rebuild the one i am keeping. The guy i bougtht it > from said he rebuld it but it only has about 110 compression.
> or--- In
> anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> , Harper Munro
> wrote:
> > I have a 71 Sedan that I trying to make road worthy again.
> > The mastercyclinder is leaking. I don't see any drips from the > unit itself, but where it mounts to the firewall and below is wet. I > have seen master cyclinders for sale from $195 to $185, with > exchange. A local mom & pop autoparts says they can get one for > $50. Any idea of why there is such a large disparity?
> > I also noticed the carb is leaking a little bit. I had a problem > with dirty fuel previous, so I think it could stand a rebuild > anyway. Any recommendations on rebuilding the carb? Are good > rebuild kits avail? Is it difficult to do? I am not a novice, but > not a auto mechanic either.
> > Thanks for your advice.
> > Harper
> > ------------ --------- --------- ---
> > Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your > story.
> > Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
Pinpoint customers
who are looking for what you sell.
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
Hi Kev,
Your msg indicates you purchased a carb rebuild kit....... do you have a part number and manufacturer for the rebuild kit?
And can you tell me who sells it?
thanks,
Dale
Your msg indicates you purchased a carb rebuild kit....... do you have a part number and manufacturer for the rebuild kit?
And can you tell me who sells it?
thanks,
Dale
See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage .> I recently rebuilt my carb. I had to take it apart and put the parts in a > degreaser overnight. I bought a rebuild kit and installed it.
> One of the jets in the rebuild kit was bored to small. This caused the > car to not run well and in some cases not at > all!
-
Kevin Lister
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:24 pm
Re: Leaking master cyclinder / carb reuild kits?
Hi Dale,
I bought the kit from someone in the group. I think it was Bruce.
Just post a message to the group with a subject that states you want a carb rebuild kit!
kev goinhm@...
wrote:
I bought the kit from someone in the group. I think it was Bruce.
Just post a message to the group with a subject that states you want a carb rebuild kit!
kev goinhm@...
wrote:
> Hi Kev,
> Your msg indicates you purchased a carb rebuild kit....... do you have a part number and manufacturer for the rebuild kit? And can > you tell me who sells it?
> thanks,
> Dale
> > I recently rebuilt my carb. I had to take it apart and put the parts in a degreaser overnight. I bought a rebuild kit and installed it.
> > One of the jets in the rebuild kit was bored to small. This caused the car to not run well and in some cases not at all!
> See what's new at
> AOL.com
> and
> Make AOL Your
> Homepage
> .
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