I used an old 14mm socket and cut a notch in it the width of the spring bar and use a 3/8 in Drive 6 inch extension and a "T" bar to turn it. A lot easier to make, works like a champ and costs a whole bunch less. Caution: lay a thick length of card board or like material over the paint at the edge of the roof. The spring can let go some times and will damage your paint job.
Bill
Note: 1 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (cid:070522307@17042005-354c).
FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
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dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
Hi Riceburner; First we must agree that there are two different bars, not two of the same bar. Also that they can be put on wrong, and both will look like they are on correctly. If you review the procedure in the Honda 600 Coupe manual it leaves with you more information on putting the weather strip than it does the torsion bars. So if I was going to lead you to a good picture of which one goes on top and which goes to the left then I would look at the parts manual. Page 5-16, ( below) which shows which rod goes to which side. And, looking at the picture there will be one numbered 15 and the other 16. Rod 15 is under 16 on the drivers side and 16 is under 15 on the passenger side of the car. The ends of the large "U" shaped curve rests on the moving arm and is braced on the hinge and the end of the bracket (on the parts manual picture #
7 but at the end just above and to the right of the numbers 8-9, this is a hook like metal catch for the end of the rod which is also on the other end too ).
This is where close examination of the Coupe manual fig. 18-3 and fig. 18-5 will help .
With both sides of the rod anchored to the hinge you use the tool (pictured in my e-mail on 4/15/05) to twist the "U" shaped part onto the end of the moving finger (Part 8 or 9).
Does this make since?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From:
william colford [mailto:billmyong@...] Sent:
Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:36 AM To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com; 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Subject:
FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
I used an old 14mm socket and cut a notch in it the width of the spring bar and use a 3/8 in Drive 6 inch extension and a "T" bar to turn it. A lot easier to make, works like a champ and costs a whole bunch less. Caution: lay a thick length of card board or like material over the paint at the edge of the roof. The spring can let go some times and will damage your paint job.
Bill
Note: 1 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (cid:530482302@22042005-066e).
7 but at the end just above and to the right of the numbers 8-9, this is a hook like metal catch for the end of the rod which is also on the other end too ).
This is where close examination of the Coupe manual fig. 18-3 and fig. 18-5 will help .
With both sides of the rod anchored to the hinge you use the tool (pictured in my e-mail on 4/15/05) to twist the "U" shaped part onto the end of the moving finger (Part 8 or 9).
Does this make since?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From:
william colford [mailto:billmyong@...] Sent:
Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:36 AM To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com; 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Subject:
FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
I used an old 14mm socket and cut a notch in it the width of the spring bar and use a 3/8 in Drive 6 inch extension and a "T" bar to turn it. A lot easier to make, works like a champ and costs a whole bunch less. Caution: lay a thick length of card board or like material over the paint at the edge of the roof. The spring can let go some times and will damage your paint job.
Bill
Note: 1 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (cid:530482302@22042005-066e).
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riceburner006
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2002 7:23 am
Re: FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
---Thanks Bill! I had my rods reversed ,(left side-right side).
Now can't view your rod file as I get a micro. word 97 conversion
caption that says; Unable to load graphics conversion filter? Do you
wish to continue? Whether I select yes or no my computer locks up!
Any advise?
In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "william colford"
wrote:
Now can't view your rod file as I get a micro. word 97 conversion
caption that says; Unable to load graphics conversion filter? Do you
wish to continue? Whether I select yes or no my computer locks up!
Any advise?
In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, "william colford"
wrote:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com> Hi Riceburner;
> First we must agree that there are two different bars, not two of the same
> bar. Also that they can be put on wrong, and both will look like they are
> on correctly. If you review the procedure in the Honda 600 Coupe manual it
> leaves with you more information on putting the weather strip than it does
> the torsion bars. So if I was going to lead you to a good picture of which
> one goes on top and which goes to the left then I would look at the parts
> manual. Page 5-16, ( below) which shows which rod goes to which side. And,
> looking at the picture there will be one numbered 15 and the other 16. Rod
> 15 is under 16 on the drivers side and 16 is under 15 on the passenger side
> of the car. The ends of the large "U" shaped curve rests on the moving arm
> and is braced on the hinge and the end of the bracket (on the parts manual
> picture # 7 but at the end just above and to the right of the numbers 8-9,
> this is a hook like metal catch for the end of the rod which is also on the
> other end too). This is where close examination of the Coupe manual fig.
> 18-3 and fig. 18-5 will help. With both sides of the rod anchored to the
> hinge you use the tool (pictured in my e-mail on 4/15/05) to twist the "U"
> shaped part onto the end of the moving finger (Part 8 or 9).
> Does this make since?
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william colford [mailto:billmyong@e...]
> Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:36 AM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
;
> Subject: FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
> I used an old 14mm socket and cut a notch in it the width of the spring bar
> and use a 3/8 in Drive 6 inch extension and a "T" bar to turn it. A lot
> easier to make, works like a champ and costs a whole bunch less. Caution:
> lay a thick length of card board or like material over the paint at the edge
> of the roof. The spring can let go some times and will damage your paint
> job.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Wally Skyrman
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 5:04 PM
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: fjfv@h...
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
> Hi Fernando
> In doing a 20 year old memory bank review and remember seeing a shop built
> gizmo the other day in my tool cabinet. I took a 3/8 nut and brazed two
> pieces of 1/4 key stock across one end of the nut with a parellel gap
> between the two pieces of key stock allowing the torsion bar to fit in the
> gap. If you get the mail direct you will have photos. You might take a
> old socket and grind some notches in it to do the same job..
> Wally in Southern Oregon
> \
> Hi all,
> Glad to see how hondas 600 community is improving everyday. I�m
> finishing one of my two honda Z and i would like to know how can i
> make the torsion bars of the tailgate work correctly. I had a no glass
> tailgate but it had the torsion bars working fine. Changing the frame
> to antoher with glass amd bars are not working properly. I check some
> manuals but everyone refers to the torsion bar remover (which i don�t
> have) saying nothing about how to turn or apply it. So that�s my
> question, anyone knows how to put them right without the remover?
> Thanks you beforehand, Cheers
> Fernando
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------
> ----
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dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
I am running Office 2000 outlook, and copied into it from photo editor 2000.
This may be the reason. That's why I gave you the page number. You can
open Steve's website and he has all the manuals on line. Just look at the
Parts manual in the page I said it is in.
I also put pictures of my hatch opened so you can see the rods. It's in the
file section of the anzyahoogroups site.
Bill
This may be the reason. That's why I gave you the page number. You can
open Steve's website and he has all the manuals on line. Just look at the
Parts manual in the page I said it is in.
I also put pictures of my hatch opened so you can see the rods. It's in the
file section of the anzyahoogroups site.
Bill
Re: FW: [2cylinderhondas] torsion bar removing
Hi Bill,
First of all i would like to thank your response and new doc
added to the group page. Made the tool and checked the bars i note
that it were in the wrong order, but tryin to get them in the correct
position its almost impossible to put them there. The "U" shape, when
the other side had been putted, signs/faces the car direction/roof,
maybe i need to give a stronger measure that i didn�t give thinking i
could break the bars, could it be?
Thanks
Fernando
P.S.: Sorry for my poor english
First of all i would like to thank your response and new doc
added to the group page. Made the tool and checked the bars i note
that it were in the wrong order, but tryin to get them in the correct
position its almost impossible to put them there. The "U" shape, when
the other side had been putted, signs/faces the car direction/roof,
maybe i need to give a stronger measure that i didn�t give thinking i
could break the bars, could it be?
Thanks
Fernando
P.S.: Sorry for my poor english