The shaft goes through a plastic graphited kind of bearing which is prone to wear if the shaft was to rotate. It is of my opinion the shaft should not rotate. The end of the shaft is slightly cupped and the adjusting bolt is hardened steel and slightly convex. I always apply light coat of grease between the bolt and shaft upon assembly.
You must adjust the clutch so there is free play at least 1/2" because you never want the T/O bearing idling on the diaphragm spring. When the engine revs the diaphragm spring changes shape reducing the space between the spring and the T/O bearing. Over time the bearing will wear a groove into the diaphragm spring and then will square off causing hard pedal along with a work hardened spring which can crack and shear off chunks.
The T/O bearing working face is supposed to be rounded also and can be easily dressed to that shape again. I use a flap sanding wheel on my bench grinder to do it, comes out nice, remember new bearings have grease in them and dont rotate freely by just flipping with your finger, some resistance is normal.
Miles
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