Right now at JC Whtney for around $77 and free shipping. http://automotive.become.com/14580r10-p ... c895256076
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Greg Hahs wrote:
> Buy Kuhmo tires. If you can find them also.
> Greg
> On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Kevin Gailey wrote:
> > I am in Sacramento and can't find tires. I know minimania has them, but
> > for 89.95 plus shipping. Performance tire has them for 57.95 in southern
> > California, but they are out of stock. Any place I could drive to? I would
> > even go to San Francisco.
> > Kevin Gailey
> > ------------------------------
> > *From:* "billmyong@..."
> > *To:* Anzhonda600owners ;
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > *Sent:* Sun, February 21, 2010 11:51:55 PM
> > *Subject:* [2cylinderhondas] master cylinder rebuild effort
> > All;
> > Dale has said one way of removing the pistons, and it will work. But why
> > waste the brake fluid? DOT3 is made to absorb moisture and it has dried out
> > changing it to a crystallized DOT3 fluid. I use a bucket of clear water and
> > do much the same as he suggested. Only; after opening all the screws, bolts
> > and fittings to allow the water to get in (for an hour or two). To remove
> > the pistons, I leaving the end clip and washer off the open end and use
> > bolts to cap off every opening but one of the end ones and then just blow it
> > out with compressed air back into the bucket of water. Or, I have used a
> > canvas bag to catch the pistons as they will come out rather abruptly.
> > Digging, picking and banging at things can make a mess and even damage the
> > cylinder or pistons. And, if the pistons come out right I have had some
> > success of using the seals again. (It depended a lot on "IF" the crystals
> > had cut into the rubber).
> > And don't forget; there is a small bleed-back hole in both of the
> > reservoir inlets (one is larger than the other) that will need to be opened
> > with a sharp object or very small drill.
> > Always take pictures, notes, draw diagrams of how things go back together.
> > Even the check-valves (I use a small magnet to get them out) are different
> > for the front or rear brake systems. The pistons will have to come apart,
> > measure them to make sure they are the proper length when you put everything
> > back together. When assembling the master cylinder use a lubricant, DOT3
> > will work, but I like Barryman Assembly Lube.
> > Contact them at *info@berrymanproduc ts.com* to
> > ask about it.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > *From:* 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
]
> > *On Behalf Of *goinhm@...
> > *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2010 7:28 PM
> > *To:* 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > *Subject:* Re: [2cylinderhondas] master cylinder rebuild effort
> > Here are my suggestions (I'm sure you will see others)..... .
> > 1) remove as many of the fittings on it as possible (the section where the
> > brake reservoirs are connected and the stop light switches and anything else
> > you can remove
> > 2) soak in brake fluid (I have seen others mention warm water but I use
> > brake fluid)
> > 3) remove the bolt at the very front (and side) of the MC (it has a 10 mm
> > head) and remove the circlip at the rear of the MC which holds the pistons
> > in place. Try using a small pin driver or screwdriver through the hole in
> > the front (where you removed the 10mm bolt) to push the piston assembly
> > free.
> > 4) If this doesn't work (and it may not since the piston assembly is
> > spring loaded), let it soak for several days and then try slamming the rear
> > section against a piece of wood. You can also try tapping on the MC with a
> > plastic mallet to set up some vibrations which may free things up (don't hit
> > it with a metal hammer.... you don't want to damage the MC). If you had
> > access to an ultrasonic cleaner, this could be helpful.
> > If it doesn't come free, let it soak some more and every day try slamming
> > it against the wooden block. You can also heat the MC with a heat gun or
> > hair dryer (If you use a propane torch, you need to be very careful).
> > If you still cannot get it free, you may need to accept that even if you
> > do get the assembly to come out, the entire cylinder is going to need
> > rebuilding (re-sleeve the cylinder, replace all the seals, replacing any
> > of the other components which are damaged). This is where it can get
> > expensive. Miles may still be selling the seals.
> > When it gets to this point where nothing is working, you can heat up the
> > MC until the seals and the dried brake fluid (it turns into a compound which
> > reminds me of dried rubber cement) are hot enough that everything slides
> > out. And then you can rebuild the whole thing or pick up a used one from
> > someone on this post.
> > I have found that it just takes patience and persistence to get the
> > assembly to come apart. At a minimum, you are going to need to clean the
> > bore and replace the two piston seals. It is very likely the bore may need
> > to be re-sleeved.
> > Good luck,
> > Dale
> > I have the MC out and I am having a couple of problems taking it apart. As
> > I said, the fluid had gummed up over the course of 10 years sitting. The
> > piston is completely depressed within the cylinder and will not budge. I
> > don't want to use too much force and mess anything up. How should I go about
> > getting this thing apart? Should I soak the whole thing in brake fluid for a
> > couple of days? Can I use something to stick down in the cylinder and pop
> > out the piston?
> > Most of the buts/bleeders are stuck on there and I don't want to round off
> > the nut. The penetrating oil hasn't done the job quite yet, but I remain
> > hopeful. Suggestions on breaking this thing down?
> > Thanks.
> --
> Professional Isetta Restorations