brakes still

cotton · Post by **cotton** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:46 pm

OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and all looks good. Got them
back on but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up with fluid to
see if it would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping pedal and
still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that mean I have
to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care to? Never was
a brake man but if I don't
do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks again .
cotteni@...

tloch220 · Post by **tloch220** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:49 pm

If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder isn't frozen), it
probably means your brake lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear lines
were solid with old dried fluid and I ended up having to replace them.
You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but after
several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of course I had
to buy the proper threaded nuts and have them fitted separately, and
bending them into place took a while.
Jon
cotton wrote:

> OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and all looks good. Got them
> back on but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up with
> fluid to
> see if it would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping pedal and
> still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that mean I have
> to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care to?
> Never was
> a brake man but if I don't
> do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks again .
cotteni@...

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:41 pm

First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it
doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen the
lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
Then bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds
more fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better remove
the rubber lines and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is in
the fronts.
Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the
brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the
booster really helps to stop you.
Miles

cotton · Post by **cotton** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:05 pm

Thanks a bunch Miles. Will get back on it this week-end.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Miles
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Sunday, April 20, 2008 8:41
> PM
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes
> still
> First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it
> doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen the
> lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> Then
> bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds > more fluid > than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better remove > the rubber lines > and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is in > the fronts.
> Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the
> brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the
> booster really helps to stop you.
> Miles
> --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> Jonathan Mistchenko and Sarah
> Reeves
> wrote:
> > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder
> isn't
> frozen), it
> > probably means your brake lines are gummed up.
> My AN600's rear
> lines
> > were solid with old dried fluid and I ended
> up having to replace
> them.
> > You can try to dissolve the dried
> fluid and ream them out, but
> after
> > several hours of trying I gave
> up and bought new ones. Of course I
> had
> > to buy the proper
> threaded nuts and have them fitted separately,
> and
> > bending them
> into place took a while.
> > Jon
> > cotton
> wrote:
> > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and
> all looks good. Got
> them
> > > back on but didn't hook up lines.
> Tried filling reservoir up with
> > > fluid to
> > > see if it
> would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping
> pedal and
> > still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that > mean I > have > > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't > care to?
> > > Never was
> > > a brake man but if I
> don't
> > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks
> again .
> > > cotteni@...
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 > 11:31 AM

friend · Post by **friend** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:11 pm

Miles;
I care to differ with you.
Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but a split system such as the N or Z 600 has can bleed from any point when trouble shooting. The point here is to find out if the system is blocked in the rear. Also, reaming out the lines is really a bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner lining of the brake hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of compressed air normally unplugs the line.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Miles > Sent:
> Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41
> PM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it
> doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen the
> lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> Then
> bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds > more fluid > than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better remove > the rubber lines > and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is in > the fronts.
> Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the
> brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the
> booster really helps to stop you.
> Miles
> --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> Jonathan Mistchenko and Sarah
> Reeves
> wrote:
> > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder
> isn't
> frozen), it
> > probably means your brake lines are gummed up.
> My AN600's rear
> lines
> > were solid with old dried fluid and I ended
> up having to replace
> them.
> > You can try to dissolve the dried
> fluid and ream them out, but
> after
> > several hours of trying I gave
> up and bought new ones. Of course I
> had
> > to buy the proper
> threaded nuts and have them fitted separately,
> and
> > bending them
> into place took a while.
> > Jon
> > cotton
> wrote:
> > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and
> all looks good. Got
> them
> > > back on but didn't hook up lines.
> Tried filling reservoir up with
> > > fluid to
> > > see if it
> would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping
> pedal and
> > still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that > mean I > have > > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't > care to?
> > > Never was
> > > a brake man but if I
> don't
> > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks
> again .
> > > cotteni@...
>

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:17 am

I don't care if you differ. Most people don't have compressed air and
most everyone should replace their flex hoses, but since they are
discontinued.... Cleaning them out or having new ones made may be
their only solution. I have had to run a stiff wire into the flex
lines of most all my s600's and never had an issue.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> Miles;
> I care to differ with you.
> Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but a split system such
as the N
> or Z 600 has can bleed from any point when trouble shooting. The
point here
> is to find out if the system is blocked in the rear. Also,
reaming out the
> lines is really a bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner
lining of the
> brake hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of
compressed air
> normally unplugs the line.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Miles
> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41 PM
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it
> doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen
the
> lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> Then bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds
> more fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better
remove
> the rubber lines and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is
in
> the fronts.
> Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the
> brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the
> booster really helps to stop you.
> Miles
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Jonathan Mistchenko and
Sarah
> Reeves wrote:
> > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder isn't
> frozen), it
> > probably means your brake lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear
> lines
> > were solid with old dried fluid and I ended up having to replace
> them.
> > You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but
> after
> > several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of
course I
> had
> > to buy the proper threaded nuts and have them fitted separately,
> and
> > bending them into place took a while.
> > Jon
> > cotton wrote:
> > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and all looks good.
Got
> them
> > > back on but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up
with
> > > fluid to
> > > see if it would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping
> pedal and
> > > still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that
> mean I have
> > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care
to?
> > > Never was
> > > a brake man but if I don't
> > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks
> again .
> > > cotteni@

friend · Post by **friend** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:12 am

Miles;
    Look at the risk, you could have damaged the inner wall to the break line and caused a failure while trying to stop at speed.   Most common result is both front breaks start to grip and when one fails the other holds for a split second causing the vehicle to jerk in that direction, into oncomming traffic or worse flipping the vehicle when you try and correct.
    Remove the line, soak it in water and blow it out with caned air if you have to but the alternative is out of the question. We have to be safe, and do some risk management. You may luck out this time but youre putting this out to a whole bunch of folks.
     Sorry Miles, I can't agree.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Miles > Sent:
> Tuesday, April 22, 2008 12:17
> AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> I don't care if you differ. Most people don't have compressed air and
> most everyone should replace their flex hoses, but since they are
> discontinued. ... Cleaning them out or having new ones made may be
> their only solution. I have had to run a stiff wire into the flex
> lines of most all my s600's and never had an issue.
> --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> wrote:
> > Miles;
> > I care to
> differ with you.
> > Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but
> a split system such
> as the N
> > or Z 600 has can bleed from any point
> when trouble shooting. The
> point here
> > is to find out if the system
> is blocked in the rear. Also,
> reaming out the
> > lines is really a
> bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner
> lining of the
> > brake
> hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of
> compressed
> air
> > normally unplugs the line.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> [mailto:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ]On
> Behalf Of Miles
> > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41 PM
> > To:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > First
> bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it > > doesn't > bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen > the
> lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> > Then
> bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds > > more > fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better > remove
> the rubber lines and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is
> in
> > the fronts.
> > Then go for the rears. You can't
> cut corners when it comes to the
> > brakes. They all have to work. You
> can bypass the booster, but the
> > booster really helps to stop
> you.
> > Miles
> > --- In
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> ,
> Jonathan Mistchenko and
> Sarah
> > Reeves
> wrote:
> > > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master
> cylinder isn't
> > frozen), it
> > > probably means your brake
> lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear
> > lines
> > > were solid
> with old dried fluid and I ended up having to replace
> > them.
> > You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but
> after
> > > several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of
> course I
> > had
> > > to buy the proper threaded nuts and have
> them fitted separately,
> > and
> > > bending them into place took
> a while.
> > > Jon
> > > cotton
> wrote:
> > > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders
> cleaned up and all looks good.
> Got
> > them
> > > > back on
> but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up
> with
> > fluid to
> > > > see if it would run out the lines and it
> didn't. Tried pumping
> > pedal and
> > > > still no fluid
> coming out. Should It. If it should, does that
> > mean I have
> > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care
> to?
> > > > Never was
> > > > a brake man but if I
> don't
> > > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies.
> Thanks
> > again .
> > > > cotteni@
>

Matt K. · Post by **Matt K.** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:22 pm

billmyong@... wrote:

> Miles;
>     Look at the risk, you could have
> damaged the inner wall to the break line and caused a failure while > trying to stop at speed.   Most common result is both front breaks > start to grip and when one fails the other holds for a split second > causing the vehicle to jerk in that direction, into oncomming traffic > or worse flipping the vehicle when you try and correct.
>     Remove the line, soak it in water and
> blow it out with caned air if you have to but the alternative is out of > the question. We have to be safe, and do some risk management. You > may luck out this time but youre putting this out to a whole bunch of > folks.
>      Sorry Miles, I can't agree.
> Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > [
> > mailto:2cylinderho
> > ndas@yahoogroups .com]
> > On Behalf Of
> > Miles
> > Sent:
> > Tuesday, April 22, 2008 12:17 AM
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> > [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > I don't care if you differ. Most people don't have compressed > > air and
> > most everyone should replace their flex hoses, but since they are
> > discontinued. ... Cleaning them out or having new ones made may be
> > their only solution. I have had to run a stiff wire into the flex
> > lines of most all my s600's and never had an issue.
> > --- In
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > ,
> > wrote:
> > > Miles;
> > > I care to differ with you.
> > > Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but a split system such
> > as the N
> > > or Z 600 has can bleed from any point when trouble shooting. The
> > point here
> > > is to find out if the system is blocked in the rear. Also,
> > reaming out the
> > > lines is really a bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner
> > lining of the
> > > brake hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of
> > compressed air
> > > normally unplugs the line.
> > > Bill
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > [mailto:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > ]On
> > Behalf Of Miles
> > > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41 PM
> > > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > > First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it
> > > doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen
> > the
> > > lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> > > Then bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds
> > > more fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better
> > remove
> > > the rubber lines and ream them out. 90% of your stopping power is
> > in
> > > the fronts.
> > > Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the
> > > brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the
> > > booster really helps to stop you.
> > > Miles
> > > --- In
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > ,
> > Jonathan Mistchenko and
> > Sarah
> > > Reeves wrote:
> > > > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder isn't
> > > frozen), it
> > > > probably means your brake lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear
> > > lines
> > > > were solid with old dried fluid and I ended up having to > > replace
> > > them.
> > > > You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but
> > > after
> > > > several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of
> > course I
> > > had
> > > > to buy the proper threaded nuts and have them fitted > > separately,
> > > and
> > > > bending them into place took a while.
> > > > Jon
> > > > cotton wrote:
> > > > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and all looks > > good.
> > Got
> > > them
> > > > > back on but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling
> > reservoir up
> > with
> > > > > fluid to
> > > > > see if it would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried > > pumping
> > > pedal and
> > > > > still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does > > that
> > > mean I have
> > > > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't > > care
> > to?
> > > > > Never was
> > > > > a brake man but if I don't
> > > > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies.
> > Thanks
> > > again .
> > > > > cotteni@ > mailto:cotteni%
> > 40brazosnet. com>
Further, it is about $50-75 in fittings and hose to build new stainless AN3 lines......unless you are concerned about originality, there is no downside that I can see to modern, quality lines. Snaking a stiff wire into an ancient rubber brake line is inviting disaster.

Joseph Corsinita · Post by **Joseph Corsinita** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:14 pm

Give it up!
"Matt K." wrote:

> billmyong@earthlink .net
> wrote:
> > Miles;
> >     Look at the risk, you could have damaged the inner wall to > > the break line and caused a failure while trying to stop at speed.   Most common result is both front breaks start to grip and when one fails the other holds for a split second causing the vehicle to jerk in that direction, into oncomming traffic or worse flipping the vehicle when you try and correct.
> >     Remove the line, soak it in water and blow it out with caned air if you have to but the alternative is out of the question. We have to be safe, and do some risk management. You may luck out this time but youre putting this out to a whole bunch of folks.
> >      Sorry Miles, I can't agree.
> > Bill
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com [
> > > mailto:2cylinderho
> > > ndas@yahoogroups .com]
> > > On Behalf Of
> > > Miles
> > > Sent:
> > > Tuesday, April 22, 2008 12:17 AM
> > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Subject:
> > > [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > > I don't care if you differ. Most people don't have compressed > > > air and > > > most everyone should replace their flex hoses, but since they are > > > discontinued. ... Cleaning them out or having new ones made may be > > > their only solution. I have had to run a stiff wire into the flex > > > lines of most all my s600's and never had an issue.
> > > --- In
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > , wrote:
> > > > Miles;
> > > > I care to differ with you.
> > > > Now I know you rebuild a lot of brakes, but a split system such > > > as the N > > > > or Z 600 has can bleed from any point when trouble shooting. The > > > point here > > > > is to find out if the system is blocked in the rear. Also, > > > reaming out the > > > > lines is really a bad move, sharp objects can damage the inner > > > lining of the > > > > brake hose. Soaking them in water and using small sperts of > > > compressed air > > > > normally unplugs the line.
> > > > Bill
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > > [mailto:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > ]On Behalf Of Miles
> > > > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 6:41 PM
> > > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: brakes still
> > > > First bleed the master cylinder. There are 2 bleeders on it. If it > > > > doesn't bleed, better start there. Then bleed the booster. Loosen > > > the > > > > lines coming out of the booster, if no fluid look to the booster.
> > > > Then bleed the calipers, closer to the front of the car and holds > > > > more fluid than the rears. If the calipers don't bleed better > > > remove > > > > the rubber lines and ream > > > them out. 90% of your stopping power is > > > in > > > > the fronts.
> > > > Then go for the rears. You can't cut corners when it comes to the > > > > brakes. They all have to work. You can bypass the booster, but the > > > > booster really helps to stop you.
> > > > Miles
> > > > --- In
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > , Jonathan Mistchenko and
> > > Sarah
> > > > Reeves wrote:
> > > > > If you can pump the pedal (meaning the master cylinder isn't > > > > frozen), it > > > > > probably means your brake lines are gummed up. My AN600's rear > > > > lines > > > > > were solid with old dried fluid and I ended up having to replace > > > > them.
> > > > > You can try to dissolve the dried fluid and ream them out, but > > > > after > > > > > several hours of trying I gave up and bought new ones. Of > > > course I > > > > had > > > > > to > > > buy the proper threaded nuts and have them fitted separately, > > > > and > > > > > bending them into place took a while.
> > > > > Jon
> > > > > cotton wrote:
> > > > > > OK guys I got wheel cylinders cleaned up and all looks good.
> > > Got
> > > > them
> > > > > > back on but didn't hook up lines. Tried filling reservoir up > > > with > > > > > > fluid to > > > > > > see if it would run out the lines and it didn't. Tried pumping > > > > pedal and > > > > > > still no fluid coming out. Should It. If it should, does that > > > > mean I have > > > > > > to pull master cylinder, which I know I should but don't care > > > to?
> > > > > > Never was
> > > > > > a brake man but if I don't
> > > > > > do it, there is no one else out here in the boonies. Thanks > > > > again .
> > > > > > cotteni@ > > mailto:cotteni%
> > > 40brazosnet. com>
> Further, it is about $50-75 in fittings and hose to build new stainless AN3 lines......unless you are concerned about originality, there is no downside that I can see to modern, quality lines. Snaking a stiff wire into an ancient rubber brake line is inviting disaster.