Looking for a R/hH rear vent window

[dustyspath]

It may have jumped chain one or two teeth. My car was off one tooth and we knew because it timed all the way back on the adjustment by the vacuum advance. Check it with a timing light and let us know. Good luck.
Matthew Timion wrote:

> This could very well be it too.  The vacuum advance is all the way advanced on this car.  SInce I don't know too much about carbed cars yet I'm still trying to figure it out.
> I'm planning on replacing the points and condenser today, so I'll adjust the vacuum advance as well.
> Marshall Montchalin
> wrote:
> > Hi Matt.
> >  I just woke up and yours is the first message on my screen, so I > > don't know what the others have said... but I feel its a Vacuum Advance kind of thing. How does it rev? Does it spin up?
> > I dunno about gas leaks. Good luck,
> > Marshall
> > Matthew Timion
> > wrote:
> > > Okay, so my car (n600) has been sitting for about a month without starting.  It ran rough before this, so I'm not too surprised that I'm suddenly having problems.
> > > it took a good 4 minutes to get it started.  it finally started.  I cruised around my neighborhood and I could not go above 15mph.  Even in 1st and 2nd gear it seemed slower than normal.
> > > My first guess is that it is something with the fuel delievery.  Maybe my fuel filter is clogged or maybe the fuel lines themselves need replacing.  This wouldnt' surprise me as I have a gas smell around my > > > car.
> > > Can anyone give recommendations on what to tackle?  I'm going to replace the points, condenser, spark plugs, oil filter, and the fuel filter soon.  If this doesn't fix it I'm going to have to replace all of the fuel lines as well, which I might as well do anyway just to be safe.
> > > While I have you attention, can anyone tell me what size screw to use to put the fog light (or whatever those orange lights are on the grill) covers back on?
> > > Matt
> > > Yahoo! DSL
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> > '88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
> > Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
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[SC]

I am going to check timing tomorrow.  I just put new points and condenser on today, as well as new spark plugs.  I attempted to relocate my coil back to the stock position but the bolt won't come off.
I am hoping the vacuum advance was all the way advanced because someone did not gap the points correctly and not because the chain jumped a tooth.
I'll find out tomorrow though when I adjust the timing.
Assuming it has jumped a tooth, can anyone tell me if this is something difficult to fix or not?  I've yet to get into one of these engines and it's all so damn foreign to me right now.
Which reminds me, while digging through my parts today I found a rusted camshaft.  Aside from the rust it looked to be in good shape.  Anyone care to wager if it's salvagable or not?
Marshall Montchalin wrote:

> It may have jumped chain one or two teeth. My car was off one tooth and we knew because it timed all the way back on the adjustment by the vacuum advance. Check it with a timing light and let us know. Good luck.

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[SC]

I performed the following maintenance:
1.  fuel filter 2.  spark plugs 3.  points and condenser (gapped to .35mm) 4.  new spark plug wires 5.  relocated engine ground wire and used smaller wire (previous owner had a monster wire on there grounded to the wrong spot).
I tried retarding the vacuum advance a little and it started right up, but it died while idling.  I advanced the vacuum advance all the way again and it idled like a kitty.
Drove around the neighborhood faster than I ever have before.  I was amazed how much life was in this little car.
So in conclusion the fact that it wouldn't go above 15mph was probably due to spark or the fuel filter.
While I was relocating the engine ground I noticed that one of the bolts holding the head to the block was loose.  It came right now.  When I tried to screw it back in it kept turning.  The screw itself was a little rusty.  Now I'm afraid that I'll start leaking oil there.
This may be a silly question, but is it possible to fix this?  Perhaps get new bolts that hold the head to the block (in the event that all of them are rusted)?  Also is it possible to resleeve the thread?
Finally, is it possible that the vacuum has been advanced b/c the chain has just been stretched over the years and is not because it jumped a tooth?
Marshall Montchalin wrote:

> It may have jumped chain one or two teeth. My car was off one tooth and we knew because it timed all the way back on the adjustment by the vacuum advance. Check it with a timing light and let us know. Good luck.

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[Lyle]

Matt;
    Here is something to think about;  the cam chain is 108 pins or links long, and with time it stretches to about 3/4" longer or about another link from it's original length.
Then it starts to jump, but before that it rattles and bumps against the dampener, center wheel and slipper.  Chewing away the items put there to help keep it from moving around so much.  The Honda 600 valve system is what is known as "Impacting" the other kind are "Free Running".  Impacting means that when the engine is out of time the valves will touch the pistons.  In a free running engine they won't.  So if your cam chain jumps enough or you break the cam chain, then the valves will touch the pistons (because they will keep moving while the valves will have stopped) and bend the valves.  This is a costly alternative.  Your engine runs but for some reason it seems to be out of time.  My bet is that it is the cam chain.  Sure their are other parts of the engine that could cause it to be out of time, but if you have checked all of these and it is still out of time then it must be the cam chain.
    A simple check, move the pulley mark to the "T" on the engine case, then move it to the "F" on the case, while watching the cam for movement.  (you can open the oil filler cap and use a light to watch the cam) As soon as it starts to move STOP! and look at the where the pulley mark is between the T and the F.  If it is at or past the F then the cam chain is finished.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Matthew Timion > Sent:
> Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:08
> PM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] Car won't go above 15mph - return and
> report
> I performed the following maintenance:
> 1.  fuel
> filter
> 2.  spark plugs
> 3.  points and condenser (gapped to
> .35mm)
> 4.  new spark plug wires
> 5.  relocated engine ground
> wire and used smaller wire (previous owner had a monster wire on there > grounded to the wrong spot).
> I tried retarding the vacuum advance a
> little and it started right up, but it died while idling.  I advanced the > vacuum advance all the way again and it idled like a kitty.
> Drove
> around the neighborhood faster than I ever have before.  I was amazed how > much life was in this little car.
> So in conclusion the fact that it
> wouldn't go above 15mph was probably due to spark or the fuel > filter.
> While I was relocating the engine ground I noticed that one of > the bolts holding the head to the block was loose.  It came right > now.  When I tried to screw it back in it kept turning.  The screw > itself was a little rusty.  Now I'm afraid that I'll start leaking oil > there.
> This may be a silly question, but is it possible to fix
> this?  Perhaps get new bolts that hold the head to the block (in the > event that all of them are rusted)?  Also is it possible to resleeve the > thread?
> Finally, is it possible that the vacuum has been advanced b/c > the chain has just been stretched over the years and is not because it jumped > a tooth?
> Marshall Montchalin
> wrote:
> > It may have jumped chain one or two teeth. My car was off > > one tooth and we knew because it timed all the way back on the adjustment by > > the vacuum advance. Check it with a timing light and let us know. Good > > luck.
> Yahoo! Photos
> Got holiday prints?
> See
> all the ways
> to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.