My 72 Coupe has developed an electrical problem. The #2 fuse, that controls the tail (parking) lights, keeps blowing. When I first found the problem yesterday (actually the nice police officer found it for me - damn) I discovered that there was a 15 amp fuse installed, even though the manual calls for a 10 amp. Having only extra 15 amp fuses on hand, I used one to replace it. It too blew shortly. The next one blew immediately. I put a meter to the contacts and found, with the positive lead on the top contact and the negative lead on the bottom contact, and got the following readings:
Car off, parking lights on, 12 volts
Car off, headlights on, 12.5 volts
Car on, parking lights on OR headlights on, 14.5 volts.
Reversing the leads gave me no reading under any situation.
I haven't started seaching down the line and pulling out the schematics yet...I thought I would ask here and see if there is a simple answer. Would a 10 amp fuse NOT blow when a 15 amp fuse does? Seems backwards, but I haven't tested it yet. Any ideas, or common things to check? Is there a particular brand of fuse to use? The ones I've got look pretty typical.
Thanks,
Steve
#2 fuse keeps blowing
Re: #2 fuse keeps blowing - solution
1. disconnect main battery lead.
b. remove all fuses in the fuse box.
3. vigorously clean fuse with a small wire brush
G. clean fuses
5. replace fuses
On a sedan, corrosion builds on the headlamp fuse, the corrosion
causes a resistance which blows the fuse. the same would happen on a
coupe. Also make sure your ground wires are clean and well connected.
7. have a beer and relax
8 if you drink and go for a test drive don't do it on the way to
getting your ticket written off.
10. Your positive test lead should be on a fuse connector and the
negative should be on car frame/body as the ground not the other side
of where the fuse connects.
14.5 volts is a teensie bit high, but not related to your fuse
blowing. It relates to your voltage regulator. Optimum output is 13.8
volts.
Miles
b. remove all fuses in the fuse box.
3. vigorously clean fuse with a small wire brush
G. clean fuses
5. replace fuses
On a sedan, corrosion builds on the headlamp fuse, the corrosion
causes a resistance which blows the fuse. the same would happen on a
coupe. Also make sure your ground wires are clean and well connected.
7. have a beer and relax
8 if you drink and go for a test drive don't do it on the way to
getting your ticket written off.
10. Your positive test lead should be on a fuse connector and the
negative should be on car frame/body as the ground not the other side
of where the fuse connects.
14.5 volts is a teensie bit high, but not related to your fuse
blowing. It relates to your voltage regulator. Optimum output is 13.8
volts.
Miles
-
juniselect
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:48 am
Re: #2 fuse keeps blowing
Steve take out the tail light assy. check the wires
for the 1st 6inches or so see it the wire has
deteriorated and is therefore causing resistance.
This is common on all cars not just Honda. To check
pull back the insulation around the wire. It should
be bright and shinny!. If it has discoloration or
green in the color, that's what you need to fix!
Me Richard
--- Steven Michelsen wrote:
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for the 1st 6inches or so see it the wire has
deteriorated and is therefore causing resistance.
This is common on all cars not just Honda. To check
pull back the insulation around the wire. It should
be bright and shinny!. If it has discoloration or
green in the color, that's what you need to fix!
Me Richard
--- Steven Michelsen wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?> My 72 Coupe has developed an electrical problem.
> The #2 fuse, that controls the tail (parking)
> lights, keeps blowing. When I first found the
> problem yesterday (actually the nice police officer
> found it for me - damn) I discovered that there was
> a 15 amp fuse installed, even though the manual
> calls for a 10 amp. Having only extra 15 amp fuses
> on hand, I used one to replace it. It too blew
> shortly. The next one blew immediately. I put a
> meter to the contacts and found, with the positive
> lead on the top contact and the negative lead on the
> bottom contact, and got the following readings:
> Car off, parking lights on, 12 volts
> Car off, headlights on, 12.5 volts
> Car on, parking lights on OR headlights on, 14.5
> volts.
> Reversing the leads gave me no reading under any
> situation.
> I haven't started seaching down the line and pulling
> out the schematics yet...I thought I would ask here
> and see if there is a simple answer. Would a 10 amp
> fuse NOT blow when a 15 amp fuse does? Seems
> backwards, but I haven't tested it yet. Any ideas,
> or common things to check? Is there a particular
> brand of fuse to use? The ones I've got look pretty
> typical.
> Thanks,
> Steve
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
-
StangGuy67
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 11:38 pm
Re: #2 fuse keeps blowing
Here's some info from a friend of mine who works for Littelfuse:
a 10 amp would not blow under one condition where a 15 amp would. If the 10
amp is a slo-blo and the 15 amp is a fast blo fuse, and the short isn't
significant enough to blow under slo blo conditions. the voltage looks correct, and
the alternator or generator is the reason the voltage is higher when the car is
running.
a 10 amp would not blow under one condition where a 15 amp would. If the 10
amp is a slo-blo and the 15 amp is a fast blo fuse, and the short isn't
significant enough to blow under slo blo conditions. the voltage looks correct, and
the alternator or generator is the reason the voltage is higher when the car is
running.