check the brakes, and if the gas line is clear. Listen for the fuel pump when a good battery is installed and the switch is turned on.
Mike
Re: Digest Number 240
Re: Digest Number 240
Any worries about old gas gunking up the carb?
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Digest Number 240
Hi Steven;
Your Question:
What sort of trouble should I look for when checking out a "once
running" 600 that has been sitting for several years?
Is interesting and at the same time understandable if you have never
worked on a car that has not been driven for many years.
From the way you asked the question I am assuming the Honda 600 in
question was not put into long term storage but rather simply parked and
left. If "Parked and Left" is the correct assumption then you will have to
check everything.
Fuel - The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned
then a two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside
the tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good
tank cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like
to use Hirsch Tank sealer. The fuel pump may work but should be removed and
cleaned, this can be accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the
in and out ports are) and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas
will have left a goo on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may
be as simple as using compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a
length of old cable to a drill and running it through the lines, either way
squirt some carb cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out
again. Then pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the
cover to the accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked
it will need to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl,
and clean out all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the
needle valve does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not
leak. Then remove the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by
squirting carb cleaner on the out side of the screen first and using
compressed air to blow from the outside in to remove any build up of gum.
Use air to blow out everything and put it back together. Next remove the
solenoid check the OF ring and touch the wires to the battery to see if the
pin pulls back into the solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then
replace it. Pull the fuel filter and replace it, you should be set for
fuel.
Brakes; Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master
Brake cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has
fluid, top it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have
clear break fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove
the master cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place
the cylinder in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours.
Then, after all the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking
it apart, dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down
on a blank sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the
front and rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when
they are removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a
block of wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the
cylinder back into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to
poke around and cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes
and use air at the closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using
compressed air (and pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the
cylinder. Then wash everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse
all the internal parts and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer
thinner to rinse out the cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air.
Clean all the other parts and check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or
nicks. Look at the inside of the cylinder and see if it is pock marked
where it corroded. If it is slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a
length (8 inches of 3/4 inch hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and
keep turning it as you remove it. This should clean it enough to see if
there are any deep pits. If there are, it needs to be replaced and go to
all the wheel cylinders and calipers removing them and cleaning the same way
in water. Using water to clean everything is really the key, brake fluid
(DOT 3) is made to absorb water in your system. Water liquefies the fluid
and can keep the rubber in re-usable condition. If the pits are too deep,
then it will need to be sleeved in brass. Do the same with the rear
cylinders if they are pitted. The front calipers can be cleaned and the
rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue here is the pistons, if they have
started to rust, they will have to be reechoed, yes even if it is in an area
that is not in the travel area of the piston and the "O" ring. When
reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the rubber and metal surfaces.
The power booster is another animal I take them to a local rebuild to have
them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil.
Next open the distributor and change the points, check
all wires because Mice love to chew on them and a simple look will save all
kinds of time and frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be
changed. If you clean them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't
use carb cleaner. (there are other things you could do) but these will
give you a good start. Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car
and see if it will fire up.
If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the
instructions.
or/Bill
Your Question:
What sort of trouble should I look for when checking out a "once
running" 600 that has been sitting for several years?
Is interesting and at the same time understandable if you have never
worked on a car that has not been driven for many years.
From the way you asked the question I am assuming the Honda 600 in
question was not put into long term storage but rather simply parked and
left. If "Parked and Left" is the correct assumption then you will have to
check everything.
Fuel - The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned
then a two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside
the tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good
tank cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like
to use Hirsch Tank sealer. The fuel pump may work but should be removed and
cleaned, this can be accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the
in and out ports are) and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas
will have left a goo on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may
be as simple as using compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a
length of old cable to a drill and running it through the lines, either way
squirt some carb cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out
again. Then pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the
cover to the accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked
it will need to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl,
and clean out all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the
needle valve does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not
leak. Then remove the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by
squirting carb cleaner on the out side of the screen first and using
compressed air to blow from the outside in to remove any build up of gum.
Use air to blow out everything and put it back together. Next remove the
solenoid check the OF ring and touch the wires to the battery to see if the
pin pulls back into the solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then
replace it. Pull the fuel filter and replace it, you should be set for
fuel.
Brakes; Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master
Brake cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has
fluid, top it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have
clear break fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove
the master cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place
the cylinder in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours.
Then, after all the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking
it apart, dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down
on a blank sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the
front and rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when
they are removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a
block of wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the
cylinder back into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to
poke around and cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes
and use air at the closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using
compressed air (and pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the
cylinder. Then wash everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse
all the internal parts and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer
thinner to rinse out the cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air.
Clean all the other parts and check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or
nicks. Look at the inside of the cylinder and see if it is pock marked
where it corroded. If it is slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a
length (8 inches of 3/4 inch hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and
keep turning it as you remove it. This should clean it enough to see if
there are any deep pits. If there are, it needs to be replaced and go to
all the wheel cylinders and calipers removing them and cleaning the same way
in water. Using water to clean everything is really the key, brake fluid
(DOT 3) is made to absorb water in your system. Water liquefies the fluid
and can keep the rubber in re-usable condition. If the pits are too deep,
then it will need to be sleeved in brass. Do the same with the rear
cylinders if they are pitted. The front calipers can be cleaned and the
rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue here is the pistons, if they have
started to rust, they will have to be reechoed, yes even if it is in an area
that is not in the travel area of the piston and the "O" ring. When
reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the rubber and metal surfaces.
The power booster is another animal I take them to a local rebuild to have
them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil.
Next open the distributor and change the points, check
all wires because Mice love to chew on them and a simple look will save all
kinds of time and frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be
changed. If you clean them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't
use carb cleaner. (there are other things you could do) but these will
give you a good start. Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car
and see if it will fire up.
If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the
instructions.
or/Bill
Re: Digest Number 240
Before you beat the inside of the gas tank with a chain - remove the
sender unit!
I am doing a once running car that was garaged for 25 years. She ran
the car out of oil and parked the car in her garage (rod knock). Last
year she called and asked me to revive it. The car has over 80,000
miles for 5 years of driving. She lives in Monterey County Ca and
used the car as sales vehicle in the 70's.
So far I have rebuilt the engine, wheel bearings, powder painted the
rims, new tires, misc and has already spent $3500.00 on just that
stuff. She still needs brakes, battery, fuel filter, etc.
I have another car I have been restoring over the past 5 years (no
time to work on it). This was purchased as a running car for $800, so
far I have rebuilt the engine & brakes. Basically all it needs is
paint & body gaskets.
Lots of work goes into a parked car.
Miles
sender unit!
I am doing a once running car that was garaged for 25 years. She ran
the car out of oil and parked the car in her garage (rod knock). Last
year she called and asked me to revive it. The car has over 80,000
miles for 5 years of driving. She lives in Monterey County Ca and
used the car as sales vehicle in the 70's.
So far I have rebuilt the engine, wheel bearings, powder painted the
rims, new tires, misc and has already spent $3500.00 on just that
stuff. She still needs brakes, battery, fuel filter, etc.
I have another car I have been restoring over the past 5 years (no
time to work on it). This was purchased as a running car for $800, so
far I have rebuilt the engine & brakes. Basically all it needs is
paint & body gaskets.
Lots of work goes into a parked car.
Miles
Re: sitting for years - thanks!
WIlliam,
Thank you for the extremely thorough reply. Yes you are right, this
would be the first time I tackled bringing a parked car back to
life. This gives me a great checklist to use when inspecting before
buying, and when going through the car afterwards.
I will watch for the sender before doing the trick with the chain
though! And I will consider rust before anything!
Steve
Thank you for the extremely thorough reply. Yes you are right, this
would be the first time I tackled bringing a parked car back to
life. This gives me a great checklist to use when inspecting before
buying, and when going through the car afterwards.
I will watch for the sender before doing the trick with the chain
though! And I will consider rust before anything!
Steve
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: sitting for years - thanks!
Miles is correct, remove the sending unit from the tank before using the
chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend
the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper
wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the
float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the
lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact,
ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
Greg Sikes makes a good case for the cylinders, marvels mystery oil is a
true cure for stuck pistons. However if the plugs were out then getting the
pistons loose is necessary to get the cylinders off. But if the pistons
were stuck then all the miricle cures on earth will not replace the damaged
cylinders. The cylinders must be removed, the pistons removed from the
rods and all of the rings removed form the piston cleaned and the cylinders
cleaned with 1000 grit wet dry sand paper and a light oil, (yes marvels will
work) and clean the cylinders moving in circles instead of up and down.
Clean them again with soap and water to remove all grit from the sand paper.
Now place the rings in the cylinder without the pistons, and measure the gap
between the two ends. Then clean the out side of the pistons and take
special care on the grooves for the rings. Often the rings will seize in
the grooves of the pistons and collapse inplace. Normally this is the Oil
ring and if you do not fix it you will look like the blue streak. If the
rings measure out ok, then put them back on the pistons. and reassemble the
engine.
Bill
chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend
the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper
wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the
float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the
lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact,
ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
Greg Sikes makes a good case for the cylinders, marvels mystery oil is a
true cure for stuck pistons. However if the plugs were out then getting the
pistons loose is necessary to get the cylinders off. But if the pistons
were stuck then all the miricle cures on earth will not replace the damaged
cylinders. The cylinders must be removed, the pistons removed from the
rods and all of the rings removed form the piston cleaned and the cylinders
cleaned with 1000 grit wet dry sand paper and a light oil, (yes marvels will
work) and clean the cylinders moving in circles instead of up and down.
Clean them again with soap and water to remove all grit from the sand paper.
Now place the rings in the cylinder without the pistons, and measure the gap
between the two ends. Then clean the out side of the pistons and take
special care on the grooves for the rings. Often the rings will seize in
the grooves of the pistons and collapse inplace. Normally this is the Oil
ring and if you do not fix it you will look like the blue streak. If the
rings measure out ok, then put them back on the pistons. and reassemble the
engine.
Bill