To: Twincarb600
I made a couple of Coupes converting their engines into 45hp units.
Can we first go back to the parts manual for a minute? Honda of America
parts manual has some short comings besides switching the rear brake
cylinder numbers so you ordered the right when you needed the left rear
wheel cylinder.
They goofed up the part numbers for the Carb's listed for the Hawaiian cars.
Hawaiian car production ran from engine number Initial to 1018285, but the
carb listing in the Honda America parts manual only goes to engine number
1017730, what? the rest were detuned? not likely.
However a 1970 parts manual from England tells a different story, Carb
number 16100-568-064 (superseded by 16100-568-074) was for all Honda 600
standard sedans engine numbers initial to 1018981, which includes the
Hawaiian cars and the same carb with some added linkage was used on the 600
automatic however it's part number is 16100-580-040. All early (the first
700) Hondamatics had 45hp configuration. Miles said it earlier in another
e-mail to the group, "the compression was the same". The only change was in
the breathing of the engine. Intake, exhaust and valve operation.
Using this knowledge...
The cam is no big deal. The Sedan shop manual gives the specs needed for
the larger Cam, send your stock cam out and have it reground for $80.00 and
have some .015 lash caps made up to make up the difference the cam grinder
removed from the back side of the cam. Adjust your valves and your in.
With the angle port head, a dual exhaust system (I didn't care for the
factory "Y" pipe) and made them using glass packs on each, the larger Carb
(or, rejet the secondary jet in the later carb - caution - leave the primary
jet alone if you want your car to idle) and recut cam using standard pistons
you will achieve 45hp from your engine. Larger pistons, replace the
constant transmission with a full syncro trans, use carbon core plug wires
and a hotter plug and you will probably achieve close to 50 hp.
But here is the kicker, the points fire on both pistons at the same time, at
about 7.5K rpm you exceed point capability, your engine will stall (stop
firing) and pick up where it left off at around 6.5K rpm. But lets say you
modify your point system with an electronic system, you're still facing red
line of 6K and a final gear ratio that will keep you at 75 MPH unless you
exceed 6K RPM. Red Lines are there for a purpose, break the rule and you
may pay with a spent engine.
Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to put you down, I have completed a
couple of engines using the items I spoke of above. One is still running
around up in Los Angeles. The other was up for sale here in San Diego a few
months back, both were are still running great according to their owners.
They sounded nice and quiet at idle, but crack em open a notch and they
rapped like a straight pipe motorcycle. But they did move out very well.
I know this is more information than you may have been looking for, but it
is harder to speak to just one item when the whole package is easier to
explain.
Bill
Re: (unknown)
-
twincarb600
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Tue Mar 05, 2002 2:19 pm
Re: (unknown)
I did some checking and the cams I have are casting numbers not model
numbers. I did find that the one I have that I thought to be Hawaiian
is a reground cam. I pulled the valve cover on my old coupe and
checked it looks like the same cam as this monster cam I already
have. I bought the one in my coupe from Don at Transpac back in the
early 80's. The carb is a 40mm bore carb with N6E1 marked on it. I
don't see anything for this carb in any of the manuals that I have.
This carb looks just like what I call the early model carb but has
aluminum top not steel. When I bought this carb I had hard time
finding the right intake that fit it. The intake that I got didn't
have hose for brake booster so I drilled one in. The coupe that this
was all set up on was my little screamer back in the 80's. If I
remember I had .010 milled off and doubled gasketed the cam housing.
I do rembember seeing back in the early 80's cams with the sprocket
machined off and a bolt on sprocket setup so you could fine tune the
cam timing. I have also ran a Isky cam that I had done also but the
45hp cam ran much better. I ran the wheels off my coupe it would
spin up to 8000 rpm but fell off above that. I alway changed the oil
every 2000 miles and change cam chain at 20k. I put new drive
dampners and drive chains every 40k. These probably didn't need to be
done so often put I never had breakdown either. I would put 45k-50k
ayear on this car. The car has been parked for last 17 yrs. When I
parked it it had 155k on it. Thanks for all your input Bill.
numbers. I did find that the one I have that I thought to be Hawaiian
is a reground cam. I pulled the valve cover on my old coupe and
checked it looks like the same cam as this monster cam I already
have. I bought the one in my coupe from Don at Transpac back in the
early 80's. The carb is a 40mm bore carb with N6E1 marked on it. I
don't see anything for this carb in any of the manuals that I have.
This carb looks just like what I call the early model carb but has
aluminum top not steel. When I bought this carb I had hard time
finding the right intake that fit it. The intake that I got didn't
have hose for brake booster so I drilled one in. The coupe that this
was all set up on was my little screamer back in the 80's. If I
remember I had .010 milled off and doubled gasketed the cam housing.
I do rembember seeing back in the early 80's cams with the sprocket
machined off and a bolt on sprocket setup so you could fine tune the
cam timing. I have also ran a Isky cam that I had done also but the
45hp cam ran much better. I ran the wheels off my coupe it would
spin up to 8000 rpm but fell off above that. I alway changed the oil
every 2000 miles and change cam chain at 20k. I put new drive
dampners and drive chains every 40k. These probably didn't need to be
done so often put I never had breakdown either. I would put 45k-50k
ayear on this car. The car has been parked for last 17 yrs. When I
parked it it had 155k on it. Thanks for all your input Bill.
--- In 2cylinderhondas@y..., "william colford" wrote:
> To: Twincarb600
> I made a couple of Coupes converting their engines into 45hp units.
> Can we first go back to the parts manual for a minute? Honda of
America
> parts manual has some short comings besides switching the rear brake
> cylinder numbers so you ordered the right when you needed the left
rear
> wheel cylinder.
> They goofed up the part numbers for the Carb's listed for the
Hawaiian cars.
> Hawaiian car production ran from engine number Initial to 1018285,
but the
> carb listing in the Honda America parts manual only goes to engine
number
> 1017730, what? the rest were detuned? not likely.
> However a 1970 parts manual from England tells a different story,
Carb
> number 16100-568-064 (superseded by 16100-568-074) was for all
Honda 600
> standard sedans engine numbers initial to 1018981, which includes
the
> Hawaiian cars and the same carb with some added linkage was used on
the 600
> automatic however it's part number is 16100-580-040. All early
(the first
> 700) Hondamatics had 45hp configuration. Miles said it earlier in
another
> e-mail to the group, "the compression was the same". The only
change was in
> the breathing of the engine. Intake, exhaust and valve operation.
> Using this knowledge...
> The cam is no big deal. The Sedan shop manual gives the specs
needed for
> the larger Cam, send your stock cam out and have it reground for
$80.00 and
> have some .015 lash caps made up to make up the difference the cam
grinder
> removed from the back side of the cam. Adjust your valves and your
in.
> With the angle port head, a dual exhaust system (I didn't care for
the
> factory "Y" pipe) and made them using glass packs on each, the
larger Carb
> (or, rejet the secondary jet in the later carb - caution - leave
the primary
> jet alone if you want your car to idle) and recut cam using
standard pistons
> you will achieve 45hp from your engine. Larger pistons, replace the
> constant transmission with a full syncro trans, use carbon core
plug wires
> and a hotter plug and you will probably achieve close to 50 hp.
> But here is the kicker, the points fire on both pistons at the same
time, at
> about 7.5K rpm you exceed point capability, your engine will stall
(stop
> firing) and pick up where it left off at around 6.5K rpm. But
lets say you
> modify your point system with an electronic system, you're still
facing red
> line of 6K and a final gear ratio that will keep you at 75 MPH
unless you
> exceed 6K RPM. Red Lines are there for a purpose, break the rule
and you
> may pay with a spent engine.
> Don't get me wrong, I am not trying to put you down, I have
completed a
> couple of engines using the items I spoke of above. One is still
running
> around up in Los Angeles. The other was up for sale here in San
Diego a few
> months back, both were are still running great according to their
owners.
> They sounded nice and quiet at idle, but crack em open a notch and
they
> rapped like a straight pipe motorcycle. But they did move out very
well.
> I know this is more information than you may have been looking for,
but it
> is harder to speak to just one item when the whole package is
easier to
> explain.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "twincarb600"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 9:05 PM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > Which carb and cam makes it the hawaiian setup. I have seen 3
> > different style Honda carbs and seen 3 different cams. the stock
cams
> > show a R1.5 in the casting. I also have a R2 and a R3. Each cam
is
> > different in size with the R3 being a monster as far as lift and
> > duration. I have a 45hp cam(which came from Transpac in early
80's)
> > with milled head and big bore carb in one of my old cars but have
not
> > checked which version the casting shows. This carb is the only
> > diaphram carb I have is 40mm(I think)were the stock size was
36mm. I
> > have never came across part numbers or specs for any of the
oldball
> > carb or cams that I have. So which is which and what is what?
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 2cylinderhondas-unsubscribe@y...
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: (unknown)
The N6E1 seems to be later than what I have been able to pick up. I have
only run into the N6D and N6D1 units. Both are the large bore and use the
piston diaphragm. But when I ran a drill bit through the secondary (next
size up on the drill bit) on one of the later carbs, it seemed to get better
top end, and it didn't screw up the idle circuit, but I had to use a thicker
gasket on the end of the needle so it would seat.
I was using the Tach on my Coupe to note when the points let go, so your 8K
RPM may be closer to the correct point. Although it might have been my
points too. Since the engine valves can impact the piston when out of time
I try only to smooth the surface on the heads although I retorque the head
after running it for an hour or so.
I found that using an oil cooler with a thermostat for the oil kept the
engine running at optimum temperature, caused less varnishing on the cases,
although it didn't keep the cam chain from stretching. I tore one engine
down every 10 K miles and measured several items but watched the cam chain
and drive chains the most. I found that 40K to 45K miles was about average
on a cam chain with a driver who takes the engine to its red line during
most shift ranges. And I have seen a cam chain on another vehicle whose
driver never drove above 5K RPM that achieved 60K on a cam chain and when I
measured the chain it still had not stretched enough to warrant changing it.
Then I had another friend who allowed his teenaged daughter drive his sedan
and she popped the sprocket dampers and broke the drive chains. People who
worked at the Burger shop she worked at said she drove the car like it was a
race every day.
But take a look at the
group page in the parts photo album. I put a picture of the oil cooler set
up there. The only modification to the engine is the oil filter cap and
center bolt. But it really keeps the oil clean
and cool. I have had three engines come back to me after more than 10
years in operation with a oil cooler on them. Talk to Harry Lineback, he
has had one on his Sedan since 1990. Another guy is Henry Tate in Oklahoma,
who used to drive his Coupe between Bartlesville and San Diego every six
months or so, rebuilding his engine when he got home each time until he
installed a oil cooler. That was in 1989, he has not rebuilt his engine
since. Excessive Heat causes wear, take away excessive heat and the wear
is less. I say this because it seems your intent on making your engine HOT.
Bill
only run into the N6D and N6D1 units. Both are the large bore and use the
piston diaphragm. But when I ran a drill bit through the secondary (next
size up on the drill bit) on one of the later carbs, it seemed to get better
top end, and it didn't screw up the idle circuit, but I had to use a thicker
gasket on the end of the needle so it would seat.
I was using the Tach on my Coupe to note when the points let go, so your 8K
RPM may be closer to the correct point. Although it might have been my
points too. Since the engine valves can impact the piston when out of time
I try only to smooth the surface on the heads although I retorque the head
after running it for an hour or so.
I found that using an oil cooler with a thermostat for the oil kept the
engine running at optimum temperature, caused less varnishing on the cases,
although it didn't keep the cam chain from stretching. I tore one engine
down every 10 K miles and measured several items but watched the cam chain
and drive chains the most. I found that 40K to 45K miles was about average
on a cam chain with a driver who takes the engine to its red line during
most shift ranges. And I have seen a cam chain on another vehicle whose
driver never drove above 5K RPM that achieved 60K on a cam chain and when I
measured the chain it still had not stretched enough to warrant changing it.
Then I had another friend who allowed his teenaged daughter drive his sedan
and she popped the sprocket dampers and broke the drive chains. People who
worked at the Burger shop she worked at said she drove the car like it was a
race every day.
But take a look at the
group page in the parts photo album. I put a picture of the oil cooler set
up there. The only modification to the engine is the oil filter cap and
center bolt. But it really keeps the oil clean
and cool. I have had three engines come back to me after more than 10
years in operation with a oil cooler on them. Talk to Harry Lineback, he
has had one on his Sedan since 1990. Another guy is Henry Tate in Oklahoma,
who used to drive his Coupe between Bartlesville and San Diego every six
months or so, rebuilding his engine when he got home each time until he
installed a oil cooler. That was in 1989, he has not rebuilt his engine
since. Excessive Heat causes wear, take away excessive heat and the wear
is less. I say this because it seems your intent on making your engine HOT.
Bill
-
Eddie Velasquez
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 8:00 am
Re: (unknown)
how much?
--- On
Thu, 5/14/09, David Ackerman
wrote:
> From: David Ackerman
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 3:01 PM
> If anyone is interested in buying a '70 sedan, and a '72 coupe in southern Oregon area I have them for sale. The sedan has an excellent body and decent paint, but the engine needs a rebuild, and is currently removed. Good factory size cylinders are included and already cleaned up. The car is all there except inner rear plastic panels. It also has a complete stock exhaust that is in good shape. Rear brake setup has been rebuilt already, but needs installed.
> The coupe has a straight body with some rust here and there. This car did run before the carb was taken off, but the brakes are all seized up. The car is also all there, and has nice tweed covered seats in it.
> Included are at least six of the mag style wheels, and several stock steel wheels. If anyone is interested please e-mail me @ > blue65nova@yahoo. com > for more details and/or pics.
-
Keith Deal
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:32 pm
Re: (unknown)
That is what I was afraid of, thank you for the info Tom.
--- On
Tue, 6/23/09, TOM THIES
wrote:
> From: TOM THIES
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 4:01 AM
> Keith
> I own a 72 honda coupe and if I owned a sedan I think I would consider both > at parts cars, being the knock. I you can find some one to look at it > would be nice. What I have seen is if the motor is in good running order > it makes a big difference in price. A knock most likely means Crank.
> Very hard to find in good shape. A complete rebuild could cost $3,500 > just for the motor. if this is something you can do along with any > other repairs it may be worth it. But like I said I think the cars > might be worth that if you all ready own a sedan and they would be parts > cars.
> I am sure you will get others weighing in on this
> good luck with your decision
> Tom T
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > Keith Deal
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent:
> > Monday, June 22, 2009 8:31 PM
> > Subject:
> > [2cylinderhondas]
> > (unknown)
> > I signed up with this group because I have an opportunity > > to buy a pair of 1971 sedans. One is in running/driving condition with a > > clean title, but it needs paint, interior, and my biggest concern is > > that it has a knock in the engine. The second is a parts car, mostly > > complete except for some engine parts .I have been offered both for > > $1000. I have been pricing these cars for years on ebay and from what > > I've seen this is a great deal even with the engine knock. So the > > first thing I need to know: Is this opportunity worth breaking the piggy > > bank for?
-
tommyjayallen
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2016 2:26 am
Re: (unknown)
I agree with Keith, An audible knock in these cars is normally a rod bearing. this makes the engine a ticking time bomb if ran that way. An engine rebuild is not a cheap proposition on one of these cars, unless you can locate a good cheap crank assembly. It can be done though, if you're patient. Be advised that cheap is a relative term for this application.
--- On
Mon, 6/22/09, Keith Deal
wrote:
> From: Keith Deal
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, June 22, 2009, 9:11 PM
> That is what I was afraid of, thank you for the info Tom.
> --- On
> Tue, 6/23/09, TOM THIES
>
> wrote:
> > From: TOM THIES
> > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 4:01 AM
> > Keith
> > I own a 72 honda coupe and if I owned a sedan I think I would consider both at parts cars, being the knock. I you can find some one to look at it would be nice. What I have seen is if the motor is in good running order it makes a big difference in price. A knock most likely means Crank. Very hard to find in good shape. A complete rebuild could cost $3,500 just for the motor. if this is something you can do along with any other repairs it may be worth it. But like I said I think the cars might be worth that if you all ready own a sedan and they would be parts cars.
> > I am sure you will get others weighing in on this
> > good luck with your decision
> > Tom T
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
> > > Keith Deal
> > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent:
> > > Monday, June 22, 2009 8:31 PM
> > > Subject:
> > > [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > > I signed up with this group because I have an opportunity to buy a pair of 1971 sedans. One is in running/driving condition with a clean title, but it needs paint, interior, and my biggest concern is that it has a knock in the engine. The second is a parts car, mostly complete except for some engine parts .I have been offered both for $1000. I have been pricing these cars for years on ebay and from what I've seen this is a great deal even with the engine knock. So the first thing I need to know: Is this opportunity worth breaking the piggy bank for?
-
Keith Deal
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:32 pm
Re: (unknown)
Thanks for the info Tad.
--- On
Tue, 6/23/09, Tad Clark
wrote:
> From: Tad Clark
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 4:25 AM
> I agree with Keith, An audible knock in these cars is normally a rod bearing. this makes the engine a ticking time bomb if ran that way. An engine rebuild is not a cheap proposition on one of these cars, unless you can locate a good cheap crank assembly. It can be done though, if you're patient. Be advised that cheap is a relative term for this application.
> --- On
> Mon, 6/22/09, Keith Deal
>
> wrote:
> > From: Keith Deal
> > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Monday, June 22, 2009, 9:11 PM
> > That is what I was afraid of, thank you for the info Tom.
> > --- On
> > Tue, 6/23/09, TOM THIES
> >
> > wrote:
> > > From: TOM THIES
> > > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > > To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 4:01 AM
> > > Keith
> > > I own a 72 honda coupe and if I owned a sedan I think I would consider both at parts cars, being the knock. I you can find some one to look at it would be nice. What I have seen is if the motor is in good running order it makes a big difference in price. A knock most likely means Crank. Very hard to find in good shape. A complete rebuild could cost $3,500 just for the motor. if this is something you can do along with any other repairs it may be worth it. But like I said I think the cars might be worth that if you all ready own a sedan and they would be parts cars.
> > > I am sure you will get others weighing in on this
> > > good luck with your decision
> > > Tom T
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From:
> > > > Keith Deal
> > > > To:
> > > > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > > > Sent:
> > > > Monday, June 22, 2009 8:31 PM
> > > > Subject:
> > > > [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> > > > I signed up with this group because I have an opportunity to buy a pair of 1971 sedans. One is in running/driving condition with a clean title, but it needs paint, interior, and my biggest concern is that it has a knock in the engine. The second is a parts car, mostly complete except for some engine parts .I have been offered both for $1000. I have been pricing these cars for years on ebay and from what I've seen this is a great deal even with the engine knock. So the first thing I need to know: Is this opportunity worth breaking the piggy bank for?
-
feltonminicycle
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:50 pm
Re: (unknown)
Please people !
These are never related to anything Honda 600. Never open these emails. I deleted it off the site as soon as I saw it. These are going out to my other Yahoo Groups as well and I think only from people who have Yahoo accounts.
There is a Spam filter but it doesn't catch these.
Miles
These are never related to anything Honda 600. Never open these emails. I deleted it off the site as soon as I saw it. These are going out to my other Yahoo Groups as well and I think only from people who have Yahoo accounts.
There is a Spam filter but it doesn't catch these.
Miles
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Loren Kuipers wrote:
> this appears again as to me anyway, to be a spam of somekind, it opens into a yahoo site I saw nothing relating to 2 cylinders there.
> Is there a way to filter this ? or did this originate from Michael?
> LHK
> --- On Tue, 2/12/13, Michael Leung wrote:
> From: Michael Leung
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: "thoward4@..." , "Cycleman01@..." , "gsherid@..." , "
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
" , "spannchad@..." , "chasgould@..." , "jbmkwaj@..." , "n4mativb@..."
> Date: Tuesday, February 12, 2013, 3:51 AM
Re: (unknown)
here is one installed in my n600 the electrical box part is bolted to the fender well works awesome I think this is a kit for a 70's gold wing
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 11/13/14, nate smith
nateshalfpriceauto@...
[2cylinderhondas] wrote:
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
To: "
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
" <
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 13, 2014, 9:51 AM
�
Im unfamiliar with the motorcycle style ignition
system and how to instal coil. Also are there alternative
coils i could use
Sent
from Yahoo Mail on Android
- Attachments
-
-
-
kingtrans2003
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:13 pm
Re: (unknown)
�
mine was a used one from a friend. i think it came off an old shovel-head.
but many of the older model harley coil will work. M King
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:48:36 -0800 "bottom cop vacop101@...
[2cylinderhondas]" Does anyone have part numbers? Now that would be really
> helpful.
> --------------------------------------------
> On Thu,
> 11/13/14, kingtrans@... [2cylinderhondas]
> wrote:
> Subject: Re: Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date:
> Thursday, November 13, 2014, 9:24 PM
> use a Harley coil. they work
> great. Micro Munster had
> one before it got
> ratted. M
> King
> On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 23:33:17 +0000
> "dontranspac@...
> [2cylinderhondas]"
>
> writes:
> The N600E
> engine uses a simultaneous
> coil. Unlike a standard
> coil,
> this style fires off of both ends of the secondary
> windings. This
> provides a spark on every engine revolution. Yes,
> one spark is
> delivered
> into an exhaust stroke, but it does no harm. One
> side
> fires positive to
> negative and the other goes negative to positive, so
> one
> side is a little
> weaker.
> You need to find someone who has
> used a non-original
> coil.
[/quote]
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
"Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video.
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mine was a used one from a friend. i think it came off an old shovel-head.
but many of the older model harley coil will work. M King
On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:48:36 -0800 "bottom cop vacop101@...
[2cylinderhondas]" Does anyone have part numbers? Now that would be really
> helpful.
> --------------------------------------------
> On Thu,
> 11/13/14, kingtrans@... [2cylinderhondas]
> wrote:
> Subject: Re: Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] (unknown)
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date:
> Thursday, November 13, 2014, 9:24 PM
> use a Harley coil. they work
> great. Micro Munster had
> one before it got
> ratted. M
> King
> On Thu, 13 Nov 2014 23:33:17 +0000
> "dontranspac@...
> [2cylinderhondas]"
>
> writes:
> The N600E
> engine uses a simultaneous
> coil. Unlike a standard
> coil,
> this style fires off of both ends of the secondary
> windings. This
> provides a spark on every engine revolution. Yes,
> one spark is
> delivered
> into an exhaust stroke, but it does no harm. One
> side
> fires positive to
> negative and the other goes negative to positive, so
> one
> side is a little
> weaker.
> You need to find someone who has
> used a non-original
> coil.
[/quote]
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